Previous details under thread (Pricless!!)

Tranny still attached to motor,
OK so today I finally found the time to get to the engine and inspect things. First the oil was drained to see if water was in it. Yep about 12oz or so under the crude oil. Decided to pull off the accessories and OH Boy was this a treat. It's amazing what you find under 40yrs of grease.. The bolts on the face of the engine were so mismatched, the mechanic had to be uhhmmm "palo sombra".. So after removing all the parts from the front and having a good laugh. The engine wouldnt turn over. Decided to pull the balancer/timing cover and get a look inside. It didnt look to bad but was getting dark so hard to se well. Removed the timing set to take the vavle train out of the scenario. Tried flipping the tranny gear, still no go.. Remove dthe starter, and still no..

As mentioned in the thread priceless, the #2 cylinder had a froth on it. I let it soak all week with PB blaster. Decided t hit it again today and see in the AM

So gurus.. what are my options.. toss me a bone guys!!! I'm a little stumped and start doing stupid **** when I get frustrated..LOL

 

390/C6 not a C4 like you posted. Sounds like it has sat a long time and has some water internally, makes one wonder what kind of water and rust damage is inside. Best of luck.

 

It's a C4 just like in the truck..., I didnt see any waterline inside the timing cover suggesting it ever being really full and having evaporated.. no rust on the main caps, timing set etc.. so ?? I need to get it further apart for a good look hence this post ....

 

If its had water in it, you might as well take a short cut and tear it down for inspection. Then after inspection decide what to do with it.

Priceless maybe, but not cheap enough....

 

Maybe I'm speaking french.. that what I'm attempting to do.. I may have to tear it down right in the bed of the truck. which is fine.. I was looking for an out, looks like maybe I'm out of outs LOL.. I think the #2 cyl is locked due to sitting out in weather without a carb breather. Open valve, frothy piston top, Guess I'll just pop the intake/heads off and go from there... was hoping to get the trany off and put it on a stand for teardown.. such is life

 

Anyone think it would be sacralidge to put spark to the starter to try to get it to turn, was thing to try a pry bar on the flywheel i the AM (light pressure) to see if the added leverage vs the crank snout will do the trick....

 

If a ring is stuck on a cylinder that will be moving down you can break a piston. Then as it goes back up it will hit it and do more damage. I prefer only doing it my hand, less likely to break something. I use to use a product called Krol on seized nuts and bolts. It would work when nothing else would. But I have no idea as where to find it now.

 

Vacuum all the water from the bores then soak it a couple days with PB Blaster. Many of the C4G heads that I have gone thru have had cracks just a heads up. Sounds like that motor isn't a virgin, makes one question what's inside.

 

Yeah by hand was sure the first option. If it wont move via the flywheel/prybar.. guess we'll tear into her rght there in the bed. The neighbors will love that lol yuppie ville OC, Ca "oh my god he's actually using a wrench on something, how disgusting...ewhhh" LMAO!!

 

Kroil is still readily available at hardware suppliers and still great stuff. I used some to free up a siezed chain saw that I ran too lean.

 

It's on ebay through several folks just checked.. $7.50 8oz can.. seems to be the general scenario.... I'll look locally first..

Personally the PB smells like somone took 2 stroke oil and mixed it with diesel.. possibly some naptha ??

 

Your not suppose to snort the stuff just smoke it.
I read in the "Hit and Miss" engine magizine about
a product years ago that that works 10 times better than
Kroils or PB blaster but I can't think of the name. I did see this
product work on a 10 HP 1926 International Harvester pump
motor, it unstuck the iron piston with five 3/8" wide rings after
sitting idle for 73 years in a damp pump shed.
Damn I was impressed with this product but still can't
remember the name.
WD 40 is only good for killing snails and slugs.

 

It's just gonna take some time Bobby. Take off the stuff you can while everything else soaks.

Question about the cracks Carl, are there any spots in particular to check?

 

Marvel Mystery oil.......Try it............aMP

 

The ones I have seen which were over half were across the intake seat towards the plug hole. I ran a set of heads that had 3 of these cracks that ran for years. Was told a seat insert could be installed but I sold them as I already had hard exhaust inserts and the spacing was too close vs MR heads.
I would rather have MR heads due to the wider valve spacing besides the 88cc plus chambers help lower the compression on a 4.250" stroker and still maintain a tight quench. Unless you find good rebuildable iron heads the cost to rebuild a set will surpass aluminum heads these days.

Diesel and ATF work as a penetrating oil just give it some time.
The nasty ones are when the piston is solid white powder and you have to drill out the pistons to save a block.