I have a '79 i6, the carb jammed on me a while back, and i put a new carter on it. After i run it, like in the city with lots of shifting, i turn it off and it like plutters and then quits, it's kinda embarasing, cause the truck that like blows every one away splutters like a pos when i shut it off. it's not a timing problem or a carbon build up. I also have to back the idle screw way out to have a proper idle or it will be all screwy. any help would be very handy,
~thanks~

 

I guess you're talking about a "new" Carter 1 barrel, right. If you bought from a parts store, that means it's remanufactured. Even if it is brand spanking new, you might want to pull it and check the guts of the carb...especially check the float setting. These ain't hard to figure out, rebuild or fix. Just work on a clean bench, on top of a white sheet or paper so you can see little stuff if it jumps off. Also get a rebuild kit...about $15...you're going to need it in about a year anyway and it will have disassembly/assembly diagrams. If it checks out okay and your timing, etc., checks out, take it back and get another...even new stuff is sometimes defective.

 

Try adjusting the curb idle down a bit. Sometimes a sticky choke will tend to do this too. I'd metion timing, but if it didn't "diesel" before I'd rule out the timing being an issue. Is this after short trips or long trips...or both?

 

It use to deisel pretty bad some times, I tightened the hell out of the carb, then i timed it, now it just couchgs some times after i shut it off, after a short trip with alot of shifting and some times high revs, and if i run it for a 200km or so it beguins to get "tired" and it has no idle. As well as when it is tired it couchs a bit too when i shut it off.

 

it's prolly running to fast. slow down the idle speed

 

Hey Cypress,

I've had this problem. Remember - as an older engine with a lot of mile on it wears, all parts wear together. So, if you set the timing to factory specs it will actually be a little off. Set the timing and then free-hand it to get a strong yet smooth idle. Then idle the carb down just a bit. Worked for me - BUBBA

 

I think with the auto choke spring to tight and the idle screw set in a higher position (to make it idle) would cause it to run a little rich and possibly spudder the unburnt fuel. You may want to check the vacume lines for cracks, everything should be in the proper position before timing it. Another thing how is the cam gear? You may have the right timing on the spark but not on the valves. Posibilities are endless, most engines will not run hardly at all with these problems, but a 300-6 will. People have told me they seen them run on one cylender...

 

I'm not sure about the 6's, but the 8's have an idle solenoid on the carb. The solenoid is located on a bracket and the pin that come out of the solenoid end touches the notched idle cam, and has one wire connected to it.

Check to see if you have one, if so, that's your problem. Adjust it as per the book, and your engine will shut down properly.

[hr]
http://easyad.net/images/94vanavitar.jpg http://www.easyad.net/images/mustang1.gif

'94 E-150 Conversion Van 4.9 / C-6 -- '89 Mustang LX 5.0

 

These guys will think I'm nuts, but if your OK with the engine's running in every other aspect AND if you have an auto trans, turn the key off with the trans in gear, foot on the brake. The extra load will kill a minor deiseling problem. But I saw one car you do that to and not only would it continue running, but you drive it around real slow with knocking and making %#$%* noises. It got alot of attention.

 

isn't there 2 idle speeds on the carb? the idle speed (preliminary) and the idle speed ( engine running) turn the down a bit

 

There's at least two, sometimes three. There is the curb idle that the truck SHOULD run at when warm, at idle. There is also the Fast Cam Idle - this is the one determines the idle speed when the choke is on a paticular step (or on for the manual folk). If you have the full setup there should be an "anti-diesel" solenoid ( AKA idle stop) mounted on the carb to. These are required in CA for the SMOG checks...this is what was referred to in the above post. It has an energized post that kicks the throttle into position when the key is on. In this case, the solenoid is used to adjust the curb idle and the other normal curb idle is set to closed throttle. This way when you turn the key off the throttle plate closes completely not allowing any air into the chambers to allow for the post detonations. If the orginal post has this, his dieseling problems may be due to a stuck solenoid in the open position.