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chilione99 - a couple of trivial bits fwiw
1. 3/16" line for drums is more that adequate.
2. is your truck complete including the box? Just thinking of reasons the rear might lock up.........if your frame is exposed back there, no amount of proportioning will keep it from sliding.
3. multiple posts aren't necessary - you can edit a post up to one hour later if you desire to add something. Just click the 'edit' bar on your post
more food for thought...I am under the impression that i should be running 1/4 " line to the rear drums. right now, 1/4 line ends at hose connection. 3/16 hose and to wheel cylinders. Can I get a 1/4 line that will fit my wheel cylinders? stock 51. my solution was to terminate 1/4" line at hose with adaptor. this is another variable. Shoestring budget doesn't help. Research shows that a m/c # mc390387P would be apropos my setup. Going to work on truck...Patriots don't play until 8 P.M. : )
3/16" line is plenty big enough on the rear end to the wheel cylinders. The 1/4" line from the M/C to the rear hose is so the fluid both energizing the brakes and returning from two wheel cylinders can flow easily. If like the front, where each line is separate, 3/16" line is adequate for drums. If using discs, 3/16 line is overkill, as the only time there is any fluid flow is when the piston is returned, or when after putting on new pads, the piston is moved out to where the pads engage the disc. No one would want to go to 1/8" tubing, but that would be adequate. This stuff has been engineered by the factories by smarter people than I, and their build sizing works well. I just do not agree with power brakes, and I do not use them on my old trucks with disc brakes. However, I do not use OEM Master Cylinders either. Read the brake article at this URL: http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/bra...kes1_index.htm
This article, written by Dean Oshiro will explain everything you would ever want to know about brakes. Also, go to Sierra Racing Products, and Wilwood, and Hot Rod Heaven to look for brake parts and M/Cs. It gets cold here also, but I have a big garage with heat. I lived in CT. for two years, so I know what the Northeast is like. (A lot warmer than Minnesota, but still cold.)
OK, this needs to be said. Took m/c off, noticed one reservoir is larger. got to thinking...m/c is for under floor mount. reversed lines, voila, seems to have been the problem. at some time, I read how under floor would be backwards to a fire wall mount, so I tied in rear brakes to nearest the vacuum boost. m/c definitely didn't have built in residual valve, so inline one stays. Seems to work fine, good brakes, nice petal travel, no lockup or drag. hydraulic brake switch is working. Sometimes I have too much info. Glad I'm not crazy. Now for the tranny.
OK, this needs to be said. Took m/c off, noticed one reservoir is larger. got to thinking...m/c is for under floor mount. reversed lines, voila, seems to have been the problem. at some time, I read how under floor would be backwards to a fire wall mount, so I tied in rear brakes to nearest the vacuum boost. m/c definitely didn't have built in residual valve, so inline one stays. Seems to work fine, good brakes, nice petal travel, no lockup or drag. hydraulic brake switch is working. Sometimes I have too much info. Glad I'm not crazy. Now for the tranny.
OK, this needs to be said. Took m/c off, noticed one reservoir is larger. got to thinking...m/c is for under floor mount. reversed lines, voila, seems to have been the problem. at some time, I read how under floor would be backwards to a fire wall mount, so I tied in rear brakes to nearest the vacuum boost. m/c definitely didn't have built in residual valve, so inline one stays. Seems to work fine, good brakes, nice petal travel, no lockup or drag. hydraulic brake switch is working. Sometimes I have too much info. Glad I'm not crazy. Now for the tranny.
Yup, that would do it. Glad you got it working properly.