Brakes

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Mar 20, 2003 | 08:43 PM

sternal2000

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Sep 2001

Posts: 73

Likes: 0

From: Berlin USA

Brakes

I'm having a problem with my residual valve on my master cylinder. I have a 93 F150 that i put rear disc brakes on. The company told me to remove my 10lb residual valve on my master cylinder so the brakes wouldn't stick and over heat. My problem is that after removing it i found out that the fitting going into the master was not for a flared line, so i had to remove the internals from the residual valve to hook up the brake line to the master cylinder. Now it keeps leaking from there and i can't seem to seal it. My friend can make me a custom part to replace out the hollowed out residual valve but i think it will still leak. Any help or comments would be appreciated

Mar 20, 2003 | 09:56 PM

steve83

Post Fiend

Joined: Nov 2002

Posts: 9,987

Likes: 7

From: Memphis, TN

Brakes

Ford calls it the "fluid control valve". Here's the description from the CD:

Fluid Control Valve, Brake Master Cylinder

The brake master cylinder fluid control valve (2C161) regulates the hydraulic pressure in the rear brake system. It is located on the brake master cylinder (2140) and is screwed into the rearmost outlet port. When the brake pedal (2455) is applied, the full brake fluid pressure passes through the brake master cylinder fluid control valve to the rear brake system until the valve's split point is reached. Above its split point, the brake master cylinder fluid control valve begins to reduce the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes, creating a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels (1007) to minimize rear wheel lockup during hard braking.

In case of the front brake system malfunction, the brake master cylinder fluid control valve has a bypass feature which allows full hydraulic pressure to the rear brake system.

I'll put the diagram in this album.

Last edited by steve83; Mar 20, 2003 at 10:04 PM.

Mar 21, 2003 | 12:34 AM

Racerguy

Hotshot

Joined: Aug 2002

Posts: 12,679

Likes: 15

From: BC, Canada

Brakes

I gutted a check valve to use on my race car when I put discs on the back and it worked ok...didnt leak. Another time I used the fitting off an early 90s F450. It looked the same as the check valve but is already gutted as the 450 has rear discs too.
On my race car I ended up using a master cylinder off an F450 as well, after lots of experimenting. I just wasnt happy with the way the brakes felt after I converted to discs. I wasnt getting enough fluid volume to the brakes so I would have to pump them an extra time to get a good pedal. The 450 uses a bigger master cylinder.....1 5/16" bore if I remember right. The brakes work well now

What type of brakes did you install?

Mar 21, 2003 | 11:00 AM

sternal2000

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Sep 2001

Posts: 73

Likes: 0

From: Berlin USA

Brakes

I put a rear disc brake conversion on my 93 F150 from TSM. There web site said i had to remove my residual valve but i justed called them and they said otherwise. With the calipers i'm using its supposedly better with the stock 10bl valve. So I'll be off to Ford to buy one and see how it works. The trick they said with this kit i have with the paking brake built into the caliper is to get them adjusted the right way. If this doesn't work out I've been thinking either going to a master off of a Mustang SVO or geting 2 race master cylinders that are mounted side by side so i have one for the back and one for the front. I just don't know if i can use that type of setup with a power booster.

Mar 21, 2003 | 06:56 PM

Racerguy

Hotshot

Joined: Aug 2002

Posts: 12,679

Likes: 15

From: BC, Canada

Brakes

I've never heard of dics brakes needing a 10lb check valve. Sometimes if the master cylinder is mounted lower than the rest of the system such as on a race car they will use a 2lb valve just to keep the fluid from all returning to the master cylinder.
I think it would be an awful lot of work and hassle to try to make 2 masters work with a booster. The SVO master or one off an F series with discs might be the way to go.

Mar 21, 2003 | 10:00 PM

EPNCSU2006

Lead Driver

Joined: Nov 2002

Posts: 9,557

Likes: 44

From: Concord, NC

Brakes

Would you even need a booster with twin master cylinders? The brakes in my friend's race car seem to take little effort to make it stop, but then again, it weighs half as much as the truck, so I don't know. I agree that it would be pretty hard to get twins to work with the vacuum power booster.

Mar 21, 2003 | 11:01 PM

Racerguy

Hotshot

Joined: Aug 2002

Posts: 12,679

Likes: 15

From: BC, Canada

Brakes

In my stock car I do things differently that a lot of others around here....besides the fact that I'm the only Ford at our track.
I run power brakes with the F450 master cylinder. Crown Vic front brakes and Chevy discs on the back. I like the power brakes as I feel it's easier to drive. It stops well

There are guys with 2 master cylinders but I'm not convinced it works any better than what I have and it costs more and is harder to put together. They use a balance bar between the two masters to control proportioning. I just use a single adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the back. It works for me.