04 EB Expedition power window problem FIXED
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
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Thanks for the immediate response, let me pose this question at ya, why would both of the switches be doing the same thing? I'm leaning towards the driver's side master switch however, shouldn't the passenger switch should be functioning? Is there some commonality with the two?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 0,0,1
The passenger switch wires pass through the driver's switch. So certain failures with the driver's switch will render the passenger switch inoperable, or vice versa. I would start by replacing the passenger switch or at least swapping it with a rear one to see if the problem goes away.
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
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Problem fixed, at least temporarily
Ok, I removed the master switch, didn't really notice anything unusual besides it rained last night, although I did not notice any water on the switch, I decided to remove the switch and blow dry it. I also checked to see if water could get in the switch somehow and didn't notice an entry point. Now keep in mind I tried disconnecting the switches beforehand and operating them dozens of time with no results but soon as I blow dried the master control box, reassembled, it worked fine. So problem solved.... again, temporarily.
New User
Joined: Jan 2013
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Hi Folks,
I have been on this forum a few times over the years and it really helped me get to the bottom of some issues.
I looked all around on here for info on the power window gremlins. We had issues with both drivers and passengers windows not going up. (They go down fine, go figure.) Everybody keeps saying its the motor, or a relay.
So I pulled the door panel and jumped 12V + and - to the window motor. Works fine. So I then pulled the window switch "module". Dont you love how you now have to buy a $200 part instead of 1 switch?
With my meter, I could not get contact between the drivers side up switch (proccess of elimination told me which pins were which) The module has a million one way clips holding it all together. I figure, its already not working, if I break it what the hell.
A couple little screwdrivers, cuss words, and a cut later & I have it apart!
Let me just tell everyone that suggested a bad relay that there is NO relay for the window motors (in my truck anyway). The full current goes through the switches.
My switch contacts were burnt and slightly pitted. The "UP" contacts were worse because there is more load (current) going through those contacts. It now makes sense that the issue was when trying to roll up the windows.
So I removed the rockers, then the contact arms and cleaned and dressed the contacts. A shot of contact cleaner (dont wash the grease off the rocker slides) and it looked pretty good. Tested it and the drivers door was still intermittent. A quick bend of the arm with the needlenose and it was good as new.
Reassembled and it works like a champ. Sorry I didnt take pics, I was pressed for time, and leaving the windows down this time of year is a bad idea.
If anyone needs more info feel free to let me know.
Hope this saves someone some frustration or a few bucks,
Chris
I have been on this forum a few times over the years and it really helped me get to the bottom of some issues.
I looked all around on here for info on the power window gremlins. We had issues with both drivers and passengers windows not going up. (They go down fine, go figure.) Everybody keeps saying its the motor, or a relay.
So I pulled the door panel and jumped 12V + and - to the window motor. Works fine. So I then pulled the window switch "module". Dont you love how you now have to buy a $200 part instead of 1 switch?
With my meter, I could not get contact between the drivers side up switch (proccess of elimination told me which pins were which) The module has a million one way clips holding it all together. I figure, its already not working, if I break it what the hell.
A couple little screwdrivers, cuss words, and a cut later & I have it apart!
Let me just tell everyone that suggested a bad relay that there is NO relay for the window motors (in my truck anyway). The full current goes through the switches.
My switch contacts were burnt and slightly pitted. The "UP" contacts were worse because there is more load (current) going through those contacts. It now makes sense that the issue was when trying to roll up the windows.
So I removed the rockers, then the contact arms and cleaned and dressed the contacts. A shot of contact cleaner (dont wash the grease off the rocker slides) and it looked pretty good. Tested it and the drivers door was still intermittent. A quick bend of the arm with the needlenose and it was good as new.
Reassembled and it works like a champ. Sorry I didnt take pics, I was pressed for time, and leaving the windows down this time of year is a bad idea.
If anyone needs more info feel free to let me know.
Hope this saves someone some frustration or a few bucks,
Chris
now to the busted cd player.
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I have a 99 F 250 Super Duty and my drivers side window works only once in a while. I checked voltage at switch, and I only get 8 volts on drivers side, but I get 12 volts on the working passenger side. Any help with this problem would be appreciated.
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