Port Fuel Injection is definitely superior, but TBI is definitely superior to a carburetor.
No matter how well you tune a carb, it'll only be tuned for that day at best. Even a TBI will change based on ambient temperature, engine temp, and all those other fun variables.
IF you can go MPFI, it's a great way to go, but it can get extensive and expensive. TBI is a great alternative and will provide a lot of good benefits and is a lot easier to do.

 

Point well taken AB. Carbs evolved at the end of their life cycle to contain myriad little gizmos to rectify all their little idiosyncrasies - electric chokes, hot idle compensators, dashpots, temp comp acc pumps, even stepper motors for air/fuel control - and they still were a costly band aid for an era requiring increased fuel economy and tighter emissions. CFI was an incremental step forward.

 

That is EXACTLY what I was going to say!

I also put a factory setup on a 300 in a '78 F-150.

When I finally sold that truck the guy that bought it was staring at the engine for the longest time. He finally asked, "How did you get this to run without a computer?" I then showed him where I hid the computer.

 

To my knowledge, the simplest way to convert the 300 to EFI is to get a 4-barrel carb intake, and a Holley or jegs standalone EFI setup. you could likely convert a factory EFI system to work. but without all the computers and sensors you'll run into a handful of little issues. additionally, the factory tank pumps will need to be updated to run at EFI pressures. i believe the mechanical pumps made 12-14psi and the electric made 10. but I am not positive about that. Junkyard Mook on youtube just converted an efi- 302 into a modern standalone system, id recommend watching that video. all of the basic principles stand between the 2.

 

So this is the same project I am working on right now, I was toying with the older computer
and distributor, and using some kind of setup for the fuel inje tion, but don't know if that could be done, any help would be awesome thank you

 

There are a few ways to do it with aftermarket equpment. Wannabe say the simplest way is use a four barrel TBI unit. That is true IF you have to buy an intake manifold. If you happen to have a stock single barrel log intake, then Holley makes the 1100 Sniper, single barrel. This is what I am using.

To get the utmost in efficiency, port injection using a modified intake that puts a nozzle at each port is accomplished with a "box" such as the Holley Terminator. With port injection, it matters not what you use for a throttle body. Single barrel, four barrel etc. It's just an air valve. So in my mind a single barrel such as a stock 5.0 throttle body would be a nice match. Of course significant fab work would be needed, since everything would have to be modified, adapted or fabbed. Your own skill-set would be your limit.

I've been thinking about doing that very thing in the quest for the utmost in efficiency. But it doesn't calculate out money-wise. I get about 13-14mpg in town, 22 on the highway with the Holley Sniper 1100 on my F100. IF, (big if) I picked up two or three MPG, it might save 20 bucks per tank. At the rate I've driving, it would take eight to ten years, maybe more before the cost/saving paths cross.
Of course the longer I think about it, the further down the line that path crossing would be!

 

Im starting to piece together parts for this now. I have a 92 f150 with a EFI 300 I want to put in my 79 f250 with a 300 already in it. What all do I need from the EFI truck? I've heard you need to keep the original gauge cluster? Like I said I'm just starting the process. Any info you are willing to part with I'd be interested to listen.

 

Welcome to FTE

So you are building a 92 300 six to go into a 79 F250 truck right?
Unbolt the EFI intake manifold, use the EFI EXH manifold and your factory intake manifold & carb.
Before you bolt them to the head lay them on a flat surface and note where the thick washers set is not even between the manifolds.
You will need to make this even, I think you need to take the EXH manifolds down a little to make even IIRC.
If you are going to use an after market intake you really need to check this as you can break the mounting flange.

If you run the factory or after market intake with the EFI EXH manifolds you will not have any heat heating the intake floor and if you drive when cold out the air / fuel mix the fuel may drop out and pool on the intake floor and cause the motor to run poorly.
You can make a plate with hose nipples to run hot water to heat the intake before it goes to the heater core.

Dose your factory carb use heat asst. choke? Did it have tubes running down to the EXH manifold and back to the choke?
If so the EFI manifolds do not have a way to run this but there is a fix. Use copper tubing wrap 4 or 5 loops around the manifold and back to the carb.
I also used header wrap to wrap over the top of the copper tubing to keep more heat in.

You will use the temp & oil senders from your motor in the 92 motor so the 79 gauges will work right.

The only thing you have to worry about is the fuel pump mounting on the 92 block.
The hole is not machined for it but told the 2 bolt holes are drilled and tapped.
If you are having machine work done have the shop open the hole for the pump.
I believe all cams are made to work the pump but check to make sure.

I think that about coves what it needed to put the 92 motor in your 79 truck.
Dave ----

ps if you want to use your factory intake and log exh you can but the EFI exh manifolds flow better