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A good practice when you are doing a lot of wiring is hook a small battery charger up to the battery cables for power, and disconnect the battery. It will give enough juice to run most everything for testing, and if something happens, it has a circuit breaker in it that will protect the wiring.
Thanks, Dave, for the info. Never thought of using a battery charger for that purpose. I should have known better than to try to work with wiring when I was over-tired. Just had to get something accomplished... ...wish I'd accomplished something else.
I had a similar problem on my '97 f-150. The pass. low beam would flicker and go out. I checked the connector and the plastic holding the spade connector was melted away causing a loose contact between it & the bulb. I jammed a piece of plastic in there to firm it up temporarily and it now works. The drivers side is now flickering and I think I just might solder some new spade connectors & connect them to the bulb eliminating the existing ones if possible. How did u make out with your problem?
I had to put the headlight on the back burner. I've been curing suspension and engine problems lately and am out of town for the holiday. When I get back I'll need to tend to the steering first; these things I can get my brain around and there's a manual to assist. Electrical problems that aren't fixed with an new connector, fuse, or bulb can take a while to track down. Someone suggested that there may be an unintended cross connection between wires in a harness; that'll be fun...
Finally tracked it down... The connector at the headlight switch was toasted, melted, and cracked where it meets the switch terminals; which is why I didn't see it earlier. It pays to be thorough; I'd looked at the switch, tested (just for voltage) the connections at the back side of the connector but didn't take it apart. I've got nice bright headlights now with proper voltage at the lamp.
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