1st timer here
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From: Emmett, ID
1st timer here
I have a 351w out of a 69 mustang that i'm putting into my new stepside that i bought. i bought the truck for $700, i came with the block, and everything to build it. I have an edelbrock hydrolic cam and lifter set for it and would like to get some info. on weather or not i will need any special things to put it together. Any info. would help and i will be posting pics of my progress as i get further into the build.
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From: Emmett, ID
i know for a fact its a windsor cuz the block on the top in the intake valley its says 351w and the intake says 351w,it's goin into a 79 stepside truck and it will be carb, i hate everything about efi (we won't go there)...i actually have to casting numbers and they are:
C90E6015-B5
can someone ever so kindly crack this mystery code...thank you again in advance.
C90E6015-B5
can someone ever so kindly crack this mystery code...thank you again in advance.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: British Columbia
The C9 indicates a part designed for the model year of 1969, O indicates originally designed for a Fairlane/Torino, E means Engineering.
6015 is a "generic" number, it always indicates that the part is an engine block.
I don't know what the B5 means.
6015 is a "generic" number, it always indicates that the part is an engine block.
I don't know what the B5 means.
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Here is the thing you don't want to forget..... Comp camp cam break in lube or equivelent. The motor oil these days isn't what it used to be and that cam will be dead in a few minutes if you try to break it in with regular motor oil and no break in additive. You will want to run it in at least your first three oil changes, and consider Rotella T motor oil. Build Away!
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From: Emmett, ID
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From: New Mexico
Originally Posted by Broken40
I have engine assemble lube, do you think i could use that to put the cam in?
For break-in, running the engine for the first 20 min, you should probably use rotella motor oil along with an anti-wear additive.
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You need a special additive in the motor oil too! The motor oils now are mostly low in zinc and etc. The lube you put on the parts, which I also highly recommend, I like Clevite 77 version, use liberally on all parts. Then get an convert and old distubutor or an by a oil pump drive thing and run the oil pump around with a low speed electric drill for 5 mins right before you start the engine too. That will get the oil through the block and all.
Thing you need to remember is that assembly lube will only make a difference for the first few seconds.
Once the thing is running for 30 mins at 2500 so the cam and lifters mate and set you need the additives in the motor oil for it the cam not to be damaged, because the addembly lube is long gone and the motor oil is doing the wear in process.
It can take 10000 miles before everything in a new engine is totally set, so you want to use good oil like a Rotella T 10-30 and the cam break in additives for oil for that time period.
An ounce of prevention is really worth it. If you cam fails you gotta do the whole thing over!
Thing you need to remember is that assembly lube will only make a difference for the first few seconds.
Once the thing is running for 30 mins at 2500 so the cam and lifters mate and set you need the additives in the motor oil for it the cam not to be damaged, because the addembly lube is long gone and the motor oil is doing the wear in process.
It can take 10000 miles before everything in a new engine is totally set, so you want to use good oil like a Rotella T 10-30 and the cam break in additives for oil for that time period.
An ounce of prevention is really worth it. If you cam fails you gotta do the whole thing over!
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Joined: May 2003
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From: south louisiana
Originally Posted by LxMan1
69's Had the 351W, 70-73 had the 351C.
351W was the base 69 Mach1 engine.
351W was the base 69 Mach1 engine.
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From: Emmett, ID
the pushrods that came with the motor (brand new not installed) according to the part number they are for a 302. Can i still use these in my 351w? I also have new valves as well that came with the heads (brand new not installed) with they work for the 351w heads?
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