Does anyone know if the low RPM idle was something that Ford addressed and fixed?? Just curious because I bought my 6.4 in Sept (not sure what build # it is) and every time I start it with the remote start it idles at around 1150rpm. I have checked it several times to make sure it wasn't a one time deal and it's always around 1150. Once I jump in and hit the brake pedal it drops to around 700-800. I was thinking of hooking up my high idle switch but I doubt there is much point if I'm only going to gain 100rpm??

 

What is your recommendation? I only need/want it to prevent wet stacking. I use the remote starter for warm up as well as letting the truck idle to cool off EGT's before shutting it down.

 

Min is 1200 RPM to prevent wet stacking or what it takes to maintain over 250-275 egt, under 250-275 egt is to cold.

 

The 6.4 L idles at 700-800 as normal idle. If the engine is in regeneration with the DPF, the idle goes to 1100 to 1200 RPM in Park/Neutral with foot off the brake. If the brake is depressed the idle RPM goes to normal. Now the kicker: if you have the latest reflash TSB 08-25-7 dated 10 December 2008, the 6.4L will not Regen in park or neutral or in PTO mode. Therefore you will not get 1100-1200 RPM idle because there is no Regen in idle. With the latest reflash you can use the up fitter switch to manually idle at 1200 RPM. It doesn't matter what job number you have, it is what reflash you have installed. At least that is my understanding .

 

It will still idle at 1200 rpm if the engine is cold and warming up.

 

Yeah it must be just warming up because there is no way the truck is in Regen every time I start it and I haven't had it flashed since I bought it so I know it doesn't have the latest flash. Guess I'll hook up the high idle in the next week or so and see what difference that makes,
Thanks

 

I hooked in to the BCP wire (purple/brown) today. Set the E brake and flipped the switch. RPM's jumped to 1,400, then after 15 seconds or so dropped to 1,200. I thought "perfect" but then they dropped to 900 just a few seconds later. Tried it a 2nd time and again it seems to stabilize at 900 rpms each time. Everything else works properly (have to have the e-brake on, touching the gas or brake disengages it, etc) so I am pretty sure I have it wired correctly.

For the record I only have the standard alternator. For those using the BCP method - are you using the purple/brown wire or something else?

 

Mine does that too. Sometimes it just goes to 900 though. I used the purple wire with the brown tracer.

 

Happy New Years to everyone, I am new to this site but have had Ford trucks quite a while. I have had a 2008 F450 Lariat 4WD for about 8 months and am just now starting to do some things to it. I am about to do the high idle mod which appears to very simple but do have one question. I want to incorporate the BCP circuit that monitors the batteries and automatically idles the engine up when the batteries are in need of charging. When I hook the brown (#4 uplifter) and the green/yellow wire together can I go ahead and tie in the purple wire (from the Ford Bullentin diagram) to the same uplifter or would I need to run it seperately. I may be totally off track as I am not the best electrician in the world but do have a good deal of mechanical common sense. This seems to be a great site and I look forward to sharing ideas with everyone. As a side bar mine is going to the shop Monday for the tires (all terrain) coming apart, the latest reflash and radiator mods along with a heck of a clicking in the front end. My service manager does seem very willing to work with me and is even recommeding I install a tuner to get some performance (towing power and mileage). He is willing to do it for me and said he, his staff, and the owner of the dealership have mods on theirs and know how bad they need it. We'll see.

Take care and I appreciate the info.

 

Just so you don't think I am quite as stupid as it looks I had printed this thread and was reading it from a paper copy along with the bullentin to try and understand how to hook up the BCP, I did my registration and went straight to posting my question. I did not read any online post since the 27th so if I sounded strange forgive me. I still have the question can both be hooked to the same uplifter, seperate uplifters or we either have to use the BCP or SEIC high idle, not both. It is my understanding that the 900rpm BCP is not high enough to prevent wet stacking.

Thanks

 

I dont think you can/should run them in series with each other. However there would be no harm running them to separate switches. Some people are having success with 1,200 rpms using the BCP (I havent been able to determine why it works for some and not others though). Its a 5 minute job so try the BCP wire and see how your truck responds. If you only get 900 rpms and want more then do the SEIC instead. According to the chart you are supposed to use a resistor with the SEIC but it sounds like some arent using the resistor and doing OK that way. The only reason I went BCP was because I didnt want to buy a resistor.

 

Does anyone know if 900 rpms is enough to prevent wet stacking?

 

Caprang,

I think you need a minimum of 1200 to prevent wet stacking.

I used the yellow wire with the green tracer as described by DieselWhisperer( by the way thanks for your easy to follow and flawless instructions DW) and I get 1200 RPMs without any drop at all. I did however use my upfitter # 3 because I already have running lights on # 4 and I do have the heavy duty alt.

 

gwcon, did you use a resistor of any kind? Or just straight wire to the #3 switch? I dont recall reading about anyone using a resistor but the instructions show one and even site different part numbers.

Thanks.

 

caprang let us know how you make out. If the other wire works as is I am changing mine as well.