Ok, so I think I found the Spout connector - it's nowhere near the distributor (I disconnected the only wiring harness that went to the distributor and it would not run), but my guess was that it is right by the TFI ignition module (driver's side). I pulled the grey jumper out.

With the engine off or on, the only mark I saw on the pulley was a indented chunk that was taken out of the inner-edge. But while running this remained at the bottom of the engine with the timing light hooked up to the first sprak plug wire.

So I eventually gave up on using the timing marks... I rotated the distributor clockwise a little bit and the RPM's went down, while rotating it a bit past where it was counter-clockwise made the RPM's go up (which, to me, make it sound like it is running better).

I left the distributor rotated a bit counter-clockwise from where it was - did I advance or retard the timing? Doing it this way, will I hear knocking if it was turned too much?

(This may not be right, but based on a black speck on the flywheel (a speck of black paint?), I may have moved the timing about 4 degrees - and if the numbered marks on the engine go from larger on the left to smaller on the right, I may have advanced it about 3 or 4 degrees. But then I don't know what it was at originally. I only drove it about half a mile, but it feels like there is more power?)

I realize I typed a lot of questions, but I'd appreciate it if any of you could answer some of them. My ultimate goal is to get better hot starts.

'preciate it, guys!

 

Hi, Ok here goes. Ford in all its infinate wisdom put two sets of timing marks on the 300. There is one set on the right hand side near the top of the timing cover, these marks are cast in the cover. These naturally are the WRONG marks. On the left side of the timing cover where you can't see them are the right marks. They are on a metal plate bolted to the cover using the cover bolts. The vibration damper also has two sets of marks, wouldn't you know it! There is a large square notch , nope not the right one . There is also a very thin scribed line on the damper, yep that is the right one. .
To do this right, slide under the engine and clean off the thin scribe line and paint it white and while you are under there you can see the bolted on timing mark on the cover there is a large triangle cut in the plate , that is 10 degrees before TDC the correct setting .Pull your distributor cap and crank the engine untill the rotor points at number one cyl on the cap.Then see if you can see the alignment of the timing mark on the damper some how and the mark on the bolt on plate, its easier when the engine isn't running and you can stick your head in there without loosing half of it. Your timing marks should be some where near each other. Crank the engine to align the 0 degree mark and the mark on the damper, don't worry about the distributor position. Just line up the marks. Then go to the right side of the cover with the cast in marks( that you can see) and mark the damper with white somthing, paint even whiteout works.Now you have a new timing mark that you can see. Pull the spout, yes it is in the same harness as the distributor connector, its a gray jumper.Put the cap back on. Start the engine and use your new marks to set the timing at 10Degrees before TDC.

Of course this only works if your cover has the cast in marks, I have a 90 and it has the marks. I have just finished assembling the engine and found out that the engine was set using the damper line and the cast in marks. I figure the engine was running 40 degrees retarded, but MAN did ever start quick in any weather with any oil at any temp.
There are other way to do this but it takes too long to describe them here.
Hope this helps
Bob/ stractor
Ho

 

Sorry I almost forgot. When you mark the damper with the new mark it should be marked the same as the left side original, i.e.--
if the original marks are aligned at 0 you should paint your new mark to align at 0 also, if the original is at say 6 your new mark should be painted to be in line with 6 on the cast marks and so on.

Bob

:-X11

 

You are a life saver - thanks! I'll play with it tomorrow.

In driving it around I am hearing some sort of newer noise that must be knocking. But I think I did gain some power by advancing it that much.

Thanks for the very informative and experienced description!

 

I would like to offer another thanks for your input on the timing on the 93 inline six. I shot those incorrect marks with the timing gun for an hour or so before I finally convinced myself that I was truly not seeing a damned thing. How did you find out the truth about the marks?

Thanks again,

Steve

 

Hi Steve.
I found out about the marks when I had the engine down for cleaning and painting. I started to replace the fuel pressure regulator and ended up with only the head and block left intact Talk about snow ball rolling down hill. I replaced the cam lifters and timing gears. That is when I found the marks. I also checked number one cyl while the valve cover was off to see at TDC which mark lined up on the damper. It was not the one I was using:-staun

Bob