Welding question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 2
From: Pasadena, Maryland
Welding question
I have an older wood stove that has a 4" crack in the rear of the fire box. I'd like to get it welded to use in another room of the house. Due to the age of the stove and number of heat cycles, should I repair this one or just find another stove. I priced new stoves yesterday around 1400 bucks. Ouch!
Any input would be apprieciated.
Any input would be apprieciated.
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 53,997
Likes: 2,399
From: NY and VA
The heat probably changed the molecular structure of the metal so, a weld along the crack might not hold up. I would try a v groove along the crack, weld it and then a patch panel welded across the back. And then keep an eye on it. It would be a lot cheaper than a new stove. Of course you are going to run across the stuff about ins. regs and all that. Keep in mind safety first.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Southern California
I think as GLR says, it can be welded up. Another remedy would be to weld the crack and then fabricate a liner over the end of the firebox where the crack appeared.
Is the firebox removable from the stove? Do you have a TIG welder in the shop at work? Would be a good government job if one of your coworkers can weld.
Is the firebox removable from the stove? Do you have a TIG welder in the shop at work? Would be a good government job if one of your coworkers can weld.
Last edited by horsepuller; Nov 6, 2007 at 11:17 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: New Mexico
It just doesn't look like that big of a deal. It looks to be mild steel and not cast. I'd drill holes at the ends of the cracks and then MIG it in several intervals to keep the warpage down. It looks totally repairable to me.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Is the firebrick damaged or does the baffle have a hole in it? It really shouldn't be getting that hot (discoloration) there.
I'd dig out the crack as far as possible with a rotary file/burr motor, weld both sides if the back is accessible, try to figure out why it crack in the first place.
Unless it's really old (30s or earlier) it should be steel. They stopped using sheet iron in applications like that shortly before WWII. Especially considering that the outlet is welded in-
I'd dig out the crack as far as possible with a rotary file/burr motor, weld both sides if the back is accessible, try to figure out why it crack in the first place.
Unless it's really old (30s or earlier) it should be steel. They stopped using sheet iron in applications like that shortly before WWII. Especially considering that the outlet is welded in-
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Pasadena, Maryland
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
Is the firebrick damaged or does the baffle have a hole in it? It really shouldn't be getting that hot (discoloration) there.
I'd dig out the crack as far as possible with a rotary file/burr motor, weld both sides if the back is accessible, try to figure out why it crack in the first place.
Unless it's really old (30s or earlier) it should be steel. They stopped using sheet iron in applications like that shortly before WWII. Especially considering that the outlet is welded in-
I'd dig out the crack as far as possible with a rotary file/burr motor, weld both sides if the back is accessible, try to figure out why it crack in the first place.
Unless it's really old (30s or earlier) it should be steel. They stopped using sheet iron in applications like that shortly before WWII. Especially considering that the outlet is welded in-
It is a Sierra stove, probably about 20-30 years old. I bought it used. I think my wife over fired it. She swears she didn't though. I had a stove thermometer on it. I like to run my stove between 300-500 degrees. I changed the fire bricks out when I bought it, a few of them were cracked. It is steel, so welding shouldn't be an issue.
