Bought a 4 place enclosed snowmobile trailer to replace my 4 place open trailer (w/o brakes) that was quite an adventure to tow in the snow! Loaded, I'm guessing the new trailer will be about 5K Lbs give or take. My questions:

1) I don't have a brake controller yet. Any recommendations especially since I'm towing in snow? Is the Ex a plug and go, or will it need a harness?

2) Ball size on the trailer is over 2". No biggy, but it's got me thinking if the stock hitch is good enough at that weight, or should I consider upgrading?

3) Towing with a V-10, std gears, 10 ply tires so I'm good to go there.

tks for your advice.

BW

 

U wont need a break controller. That trailor that u r getting should come with breaks. Also i wouldnt worry about ur stock hitch. Ur not even coming close to what it is rated at. Is that ball a 2 5/8? Ive been also looking for trailors. I wanted to get a utility 6x14 or 6x16 but after looking at the enclosed they seem more convenient.

 

You're right, it has electric brakes. I thought you needed a controller in truck when the trailer has electric brakes???

 

you will need one.

Some trailers have surge brakes that function independently of the car's brake system, but that's mainly for like uhauls and boats and stuff. I've never seen a cargo trailer with surge brakes.

You will need a connector with pigtails to connect the brake controller into the factory system. It came from the factory with your truck (check the glove box), or you can buy another one from ford im sure.

Most people here will recommend the Tokensha Prodigy brake controller. Personally, I have no experience with it though. (I have a lesser model the Tokensha Voyager which has been great)

Like I eat hybrids said, don't worry about your hitch. It will be more than adequate.

I have a 7x16 enclosed which sounds kinda similar to what you have, so i can tell you that you will love the added convenience of the enclosededness

Have fun and be safe!

Isaac

 

Yes if your new trailer has electric brakes you need a controller for it.

Your Ex will have a gray plug under your dash. If you take off your fuse panel and look towards the gussets behind the radio...you will see the plug...heck i think it is gray...there is a GREAT photo on here of it with a very 'famous' hand pointing towards it...I'm sure someone will post it.

But to answer the question on WHICH controller.

I have a Tekonsha Prodigy. I like my Prodigy. BUT if I were in the market today I would go with the newest of the Tekonsha offerings...the P3 and here's why. The P3 offers a new feature over my Prodigy in that it reads CURRENT output not just voltage. It is important to know current that is being sourced to your trailer brakes. Each brake draws approx 3.25amps of current. The current is additive meaning if you have 4 brakes you would need 13 amps TOTAL. My prodigy only reads out to the maximum voltage. I always test my brakes with the manual lever when starting out on a pull to make sure the brakes are there...my only feedback is seeing the voltage and feeling the 'tug' of the trailer...BUT where my knowledge of voltage only can fail me is that if one of those brake magnets was making a poor connection and only drawing 1 amp or worse 0 amps...my voltage would NOT tell me that...but knowing what my 'nominal' current output from the P3...I would see less than my 'nominal' say 13 amps and know something was not right and investigate...so if I were in the market today...I'd go P3 for the extra $30-40...but that is me spending your money...I still have my prodigy...but I'd pay you $30-40 if you ordered a P3 and we'd swap! LOL

On the pigtail...if you can't find yours...you can go to U-haul and pick one up for $6...ford wants over $20!!! BTW...the Ex's NEVER changed the cabling...so a 2000 would fit a 2005...no matter what the packaging says...

Stock hitch is FINE but you need to watch what your weight really is...but still i would suggest a WD hitch even though you are only thinking 5K#. You can pick up an Equal-i-zer setup for $400 shipped to your door...it provides weight distribution AND sway control in one setup...plus you can order your brake controller at the same time to save on shipping but you will likely get a better price on the P3 if you shop around. http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/product.php?productid=268&cat=0&page=1 Or you can get the Reese straightline which also combines WD AND sway control via the dual cam (I used to tow with a DC and it is VERY effective) http://www.hitchesonline.com/wd_round.htm This site has the DC straightline for $359 but not sure about shipping...I actually would think the straightline with 750# bars would be a BETTER match for your application...as the Equal-i-zer and 600# bars would be too light and the 1000# bars too heavy...I think...

But my message is you will be MUCH happier and SAFER with a WD hitch plus at 5000# you are RIGHT AT the limit of load CARRYING on the hitch...to get the higher ratings you NEED weight distribution...plus it HELPS to level the Ex which does have a weak rear end spring system...

As far as hitch for the load with WD...I tug 9000# behind my Ex with the stock receiver...I have between 1100 and 1200# of tongue weight depending on how I load...My receiver is holding up fine...yours will too...just get the WD hitch though...okay I think I beat that one enough!

For the loads you will be towing...don't go crazy with tire pressures...you should be fine with 60 front and rear unless you are carrying a BUNCH of weight inside the Ex with you...at 65# rear pressure your axle would be good for 5400#'s...only a trip to the scale can tell you what pressure you need to run for your loading...but my message is more isn't always better...I fought a handling issue due to TOO MUCH tire pressure this year on my Ex...

Good luck...you are doing the right thing asking ahead of time...

Oh yeah...once you get the hitch and brake controller...don't hesitate to ask if you need help setting it up...

Joe.

 

Yah you will need a controller. I have the prodgy and its great.,
Nick

 

I don't know how big his trailer is physically, but I dunno if a WD hitch necessary. If he were towing any heavier i would say definitely, but since the load is only like 5K, I don't know how big of a deal it really is. I tow my trailer (prolly 4-5K ish (never weighed it)) without any sway control/WD hitch and it hasn't been a problem. IMHO, let him try towing it a few time w/o one. That way if its fine for him, he can save the $400, but if he feels unsafe he can always get it. Just an idea, but I'll respectfully defer to your knowledge since you've towed much further/heavier than I have

Isaac

 

The i dont have one but thats mayb cause i dont have electronic brakes. There hydraulic on a 6500 pound boat (depending on how much gas is in it). But i guess that ill need to get a break controller if i get an enclosed trailor to as they dont have surge breaks or hydraulic

 

I'm surprised the ball hitch on the trailer is more than 2". My 2-axle horse trailer that carries a lot more weight than that snowmobile trailer ever will, is only 2". Plus, I felt no need for a WD hitch. I agree that you should drive it first. C'mon...we're only talking a 500 lbs. or so hitch weight.

Whatever brake controller you buy make sure you DO NOT BUY A TIMING ACTIVATED ONE. Since you may be towing in less than ideal conditions you may ride the brake a bit more than usual. Timing activated controller feed more and more brake pressure the longer the brake lights are on. That can be a recipe for a jack-knife.

You want a proportional controller. The Prodigy is priced right and will do you well. The P3 mentioned above sounds like a great option as well!

 

The only reason I mentioned the WD hitch is because how paltry Ford rates our receivers in weight CARRYING mode. If you look at the receiver (and it is different for varying years) you will notice that it is likely only rated for 5000 # and 500# tongue in weight CARRY mode BUT 11,000 or 12,000 and 1,100 or 1250# in weight DISTRIBUTED mode...that's all.

Plus for any tag behind trailer to track with natural anti-sway...you need to have 10-15% of its weight as tongue...even on a 5000# trailer you COULD be looking at 750# or more than 50% higher than the weight CARRY mode on the receiver...

My point was to watch the receiver ratings...even on the F350 SRW with 6.4L the RECEIVER is the WEAK link in that tow beast system...just a heads up...that's all...

Plus until you know via a scale what your tongue weight is...I wouldn't get to worried...if it is right at 500 or even very close...I wouldn't worry...but what I would worry about is how well the trailer TRACKS. If you get some wiggle...it is likely because you don't have enough tongue weight...if you need more tongue weight...well with a sled trailer...I'm not sure how you would do that other than shove more gear up front?

The point is watch tongue weights and receiver ratings...that's all...plus most people have NEVER been to a scale either to see what their weights 'really' are.

joe.

 

Great Advice.... THANK YOU my fellow "X" compadres!

 

I certainly see what you're saying Joe! I like how you always err on the side of safety and security! Not like the weiner in another thread who claims he tows 19,200 at 65mph.

 

remember also though that a cargo trailer has a lot less places to hide miscellaneous weight than does a TT. With a cargo trailer its kinda easy to see where and how much the weight it, versus a TT where it is going to be a lot more camouflaged (ie water tanks, furniture, etc...)

just something to consider :-)

Isaac

 

Thats a plus for weight distribuition

 

do you just use that plug and that's it?if you have the towing option,are the wires already at the plug?thanks guys.