Which plug are you referring to?

The 7 wire plug at the REAR of the Ex has wires going to it as wired by the factory...those wires are integrated into the Ex's factory wiring harness and provide signals already wired like brake lights, turn signals, tail lights, 12V power (check that the needed fuse is installed per your manual)

...and it has the wires to provide trailer brakes...I say it has the wires to provide trailer brakes because YOU have to provide the brake controller and wire it in UNDER THE DASH...your Ex should have come with a factory 'pig tail' that includes a plastic connector and 4 wires. The plastic connector plugs in under the drivers dash (more in the center actually) but if you remove the fuse panel cover (the big 4 screw panel at the drivers knees) and look towards the center of the Ex behind the radio...you will see a gusset and a triangular opening...the grey plug will be there (there is a photo on here that SHOWS that plug...I just don't have it handy)....but you MUST install a brake controller to actually have trailer brakes.

But all the 'wires' are in the factory harness...yes...

On the fuse...check your owners manual...on my 2005...there is a square fuse (#115) that provides 12V trailer battery charging while connected...if that fuse wasn't there...well I couldn't charge my trailer 12V battery while driving...

Does that answer your question?

joe.

 

To err on the side of safety and security is not to err at all! Plus the fact if you have the WD setup, you can tow someone else's trailer, or upgrade to a bigger one later and enjoy the greater stability in the meantime. I consider it a good investment rather than a requirement.

As to the Darwinian throwback you mentioned towing 19,200 (and there are several) it's ok and safe... after all his F250 with a 15KGCWR limit is registered with the state for 25,999, which makes it OK! (NOT).

 

I tow a 26' enclosed Featherlite and have stuffed 5 sleds in it and gear for five riders in the truck (2000 Ex with 7.3 PS),also you will be fine w/o a WD hitch. Try to carry the wieght of the sleds on the trailer axles not the truck, you want the wieght to be on the axles to help you stop in the winter. I see alot of people that load heavy in the nose for some dumb reason! Use the trailer thats why you have it. Buy the best brake controler you can get it makes all the differance in the world, after all it is stopping the thing that is pushing you when you stop! The one thing that was not metioned was a rear torsion bar, if you don't have one get one on the truck it will make a big diff. You can get one for about 180.00 from JC Whitney made by Helwig, it is worth every cent and only takes about one hour to install. I have towed mine about 25000 miles and love it, you will love having clean sleds when you get to the trails! Happy Trails!!

 

Maintaining PROPER tongue load is CRITICAL to stable towing...too LITTLE tongue weight and the trailer will be all over the road and could easily cause a sway condition that will wreck you and possibly those around you...nothing DUMB about loading properly...IMO it is foolish to load anything but. MORE tongue weight (i.e. on the truck) is BETTER than less for proper handling at all speeds and all road and weather conditions. Tooling down the road in a down hill curve with a stiff cross wind and semi's passing on both sides is NOT the time to realize you have too LITTLE tongue weight. The ONLY way to know what your weights and balance are is via a scale...simply trying to locate the load is not sufficient...towing heavy is a major responsibility of the driver...that responsibility cannot be OVER stated...for the safety of the driver, his passengers and those he shares the road with.

joe.

 

Sorry x hemi guy, I should have used the word "too" in front of nose heavy. I will have my post specialist read all my post's from now on!

 

jdw1,

If you can't' tell...weight and balance is one of my passions and hot buttons. Too many simply neglect the importance of this and they shouldn't. While most times you can 'get away with it' and be 'lucky'...it only takes once for something bad to happen. Ever notice that EVERY commuter flight you have ever taken (turbo prop) goes thru this weight and balance procedure BEFORE takeoff and the numbers must be checked by someone?...why?...well errors can cause a crash...the same thing can happen when towing an improperly balanced setup. The forces exherted by even a small utility trailer loaded improperly that far behind even an Excursion can be catastrophic to the driver and those around him...extreme...yes...possible...you betcha. It IS the responsibility of the driver towing that trailer to know how to load...sorry for the soap box...

If someone is 'unsure' of how they should load...it is actually better from a stability standpoint to load nose heavy (obviously as long as the TV isn't dragging butt) but if in doubt...it is better to load on the side of MORE tongue weight than less. But everyone should visit a scale to ensure they are loaded to a 10-15% tongue weight with 12-14% being better to give a little leaway in load movement over the trips. But if during the trip you feel some 'wiggle' when tooling down the road...you can stop and shift some load more forward.

Many are 'new' to towing and don't know how it should feel...Your trailer should track well when going down the road and not 'wag'...Stability 'upset' comes from 'outside' forces...down hill in a curve with strong cross winds and semi's passing (bow wave) are the worst...an improperly balanced trailer in this situation can become an oscillating pendulum behind any vehicle and depending on the drivers reaction will determine the outcome...that 'new' tower will likely hit his TV brakes...WRONG decision. He's got two choices...if the trailer has brakes...apply them manually but GENTLY to 'tug' the trailer into shape...or he could slightly accelerate to try and do the same...but do NOT hit the TV brakes...

My (soapbox) point being...and sorry you were the brunt...is that improper loading can result in disastrous results for everyone...always lean on the side of heavier tongue weight if you aren't going to use a scale to measure tongue weight as a percentage of the overall trailer weight.

joe.

 

It only takes one time towing with an unsafe set up to make a believer out of you. Trust me... It had nothing to do with the overall weight of the trailer. I bought a Coleman Bayside that weighed about 3000#. It was supossed to have a anti sway set up on it but the guy did not bring all the parts with him, ( we met on the road half way). That thing was wicked to tow without it. If I were you, I would spend what it took to make the whole unit as safe as it could be. After towing trailers for tens of thousands of miles across this country in all types of situations, I would recommend the following.

Never, Ever forget about your tires and their pressure.

Equalizer WD hitch set up (worth every penny) around 400.00 installed
Prodigy controller (by far the best for the $) 129.00
Custom pigtail for the Ex to the controller (plug and go, no wire splicing) 14.00

You will end up with a set up that is safe, simple and your travels will be much more enjoyable.

 

Just picked up our new to us 29' travel trailer. Bought a P3 and that thing is awesome. $175 w/ plug-and-play pig tail, and installation. The dealer suggested the Prodigy, but had never seen the P3. I insisted on the P3...once they saw/installed it, they thought very highly of it too. It doesn't even compare to my old POS controller.

 

I haven't actually USED a P3...but with what I have read...IF I were in the market today for a brake controller...hands down it would be the P3 simply for the sourced current display capability.

I ALWAYS check my trailer brakes manually before I tow...with my Prodigy it entails moving the unit and pulling the manual slide...if the TT tugs the unit to a stop...I know I have brakes...

BUT...I could have a magnet getting weak and only using a percentage of maximum power...

Where the P3 is nice is that when you perform that 'manual' check...you can see the sourced current to the TT brakes...you make a mental note (or even write it down and place it on your visor like I have my TT HEIGHT written up there)...this way...when you do this test...you KNOW that your current is always the same...if you notice less current...you KNOW something is wrong.

Each magnet 'draws' a maximum amount of current. Sourcing current to say 4 wheels is an 'addative' thing. If each magnet requires nominally 3.25 AMPS...4 wheels would require 13AMPS...in your test...you should always see near 13AMPS under FULL braking as in a manual stop test.

Volts...well volts will always be constant for varied AMPS...up to the point that the AMPS exceed the output drive...then the VOLTS will dip to compensate for that...but that is getting complicated...all you need to know is that there is no way to know the current output on a Prodigy...it doesn't show it and that is a lacking piece of info...IMO...

So in the brake controller market today...the Brakesmart has been reported as being extremely SMOOTH but then again you must tap into your master cylinder hydraulic lines...and it costs $400!!!...

The next best (IMO) is the P3 and Jordan 2020Ultima (although the Jordan is currently unavailable) followed by the Prodigy...

joe.

 

All of the above is why I made my choice the P3. As for any controller being smoother than this one.....not sure that is possible. I even played with the brakes to try to fool it, and that thing kept up with every input. You'd never know I was braking my X and a 7000lb+ TT.

 

Just curious how it compares to the factory Tow Command system. Anyone drive (towed) with both??

 

I think where things can be improved with ANY accelerometer proportional based controller (like the Prodigy and P3) is that it is difficult to program internal workings for sensitivities over rough roads and such...to filter out that randomness you may miss actual decelerations...and not filter enough...well you get jerky stops...where the Brakesmart doesn't use an accelerometer at all...it uses the hydraulic pressure that your TV brakes use...so the harder you press the brake pedal...the harder you stop the TT...that is why it is 'smooth'.

Accelerometer software is VERY complicated in filtering properly...Tekonsha has done an excellent job...but it isn't perfect under 'all' conditions...most...yes...all...not quite yet...

But for more than a $200 delta...I'll take a little 'jerky' stop now and then...I know what to expect...that's all...

joe.

 

I've got a bud I JUST converted from a girlie man bow-tie and he used a Jordan and previously a Prodigy...his new F350 V10 has the tow command...I will check with him..he is still in AWE at the power of the 3V V10 and 4.10's over his old 3/4 ton 6.0l Burb! ... but I'll ask if he has noticed any difference...he JUST got the truck Saturday though...only towed enough to know what I have been telling him about the power of the V10 isn't a LIE!!!

joe.

 

Hot dog! Another convert - told ya word was getting out!
Will be anxious to hear his reaction as well as the controller comparison.
Good job, X......

 

Well I talked to my bud last night...seems I missed something...he DID have the Jordan on his Burb...but prior to that he didn't have the Prodigy...he DID have the Reese Activator time based POS.

He is still in absolute AWE over the shear POWER of the V10 that he didn't pay much attention to the tow command! ...seems he adjusted it just enough to stop his TT...he was more amazed at how hard his motor tugged!

So he is 'planning' a trip this weekend IF (big if) the weather holds...he promised a complete brake comparison to the Jordan.

BTW...the Jordan uses a little cable on the brake pedal to sense brake pressure...so it is different than the Prodigy...it receives HIGH marks from those that use it though!!!

I'm sure there are guys in the 250/350 forum that used the Prodigy and then the tow command...just not in the Ex forums as much...I spoke out of turn...sorry...I thought he had the Prodigy...

I know Ford changed the wiring harness on the SD's in '05 BUT NOT on the Ex's...does that mean a factory tow command would NOT plug into our trucks due to that harness swap we DIDN'T get!!! ...

joe.