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yeah i know those are not real wheel numbers.. and the valves have been adjusted to the dyno its the same just about 10 less Hp
but you guys didn answer this question
Question:
do i need any other parts when i change the cam ?
this is the PArt.. what is it missing and what do i need? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=CCA-35-255-5
will stock pushrods and springs work ?
i know what your thinking its time to change the timing chain also.. but it has already been changed 3 years ago.. so it isnt that old..
Question:
do i need any other parts when i change the cam ?
this is the PArt.. what is it missing and what do i need? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-35-255-5
will stock pushrods and springs work ?
i know what your thinking its time to change the timing chain also.. but it has already been changed 3 years ago.. so it isnt that old..
Youll need matching springs for the cam and new lifters. A new timing set is cheap insurance and may help your valve train accuracy.
Well here's the news... I did a few runs and it averages about 11-12 seconds. I got a video clip too and will post it up when I get a chance. I have to say after seeing your video clip I want gearing now... or maybe those new heads will come sooner rather than later.
Well here's the news... I did a few runs and it averages about 11-12 seconds. I got a video clip too and will post it up when I get a chance. I have to say after seeing your video clip I want gearing now... or maybe those new heads will come sooner rather than later.
It sure does look like its shifting low if that is WOT (looked to be about 3500 or so??). My truck shifts at 4800-5000 at WOT on stock tune.
That crane cam should keep you pulling well above 4500....
If you were a bit closer... I might have to show you what the wee little 5.0 can do when properly equipped! A bit too far north for that kind of journey... unless you have some killer steelhead, or atlantic salmon runs.
Then I might justify it!
Good luck with the new heads
You might want to consider purchasing (or borrow) a wideband and new fpr if your tune is stock... I run a tad bit lean above 4500 rpm on iron heads 306 cid and 19#'ers. I bet your induction demands would exceed the tune.
Man, I can't wait to take out my truck and get a video.. I swear it's a freak of nature or something. Thing rips.. just gotta wait to e-test it to throw a cam in.. don't ya think? Should accent the GT40s I'm getting nicely.
The video is from just one of the runs I took, it was hard to find a vacant piece of road around here and it was getting dark before I had a chance to record the shot.. way too many cars and wild turkeys runnin' around.. yes I managed to find a hugh flock of turkeys that seemed intent on playing roulette with the traffic.. me included. BTW.. that little chirp near the beginning is the tires regaining traction, I managed to get her sliding around pretty good on a few runs.
Anyway... With my foot firmly planted on the floor the 1-2 shift is at about 4500rpm, the 2-3 shift is lower though. This is an issue I have seen with every AOD truck I have had.. it want's to shift early and there's not much you can do about it. That said, the bulk of the power seems to be below 4000rpm on this motor, I know it's got more in it and I'm sure the heads and intake are a bottleneck at that rpm. That's fine though, makes for fat low rpm power and gives me something to work on. I'm also sure more gearing would help performance.. always felt like the truck would benefit from 3.73 or 4.10s, I'll have to put that on the list as well.
You might want to consider purchasing (or borrow) a wideband and new fpr if your tune is stock...
Yes.. I think that may be one of my next purchases, I'm curious where the air/fuel ratio stands and would like to optimize the current setup just to see what it's capable of. I already have an adjustable FPR with analog gauge on the fuel rail, but and electric gauge and A/F meter inside would certainly come in handy.
I know it's got more in it and I'm sure the heads and intake are a bottleneck at that rpm.That's fine though, makes for fat low rpm power and gives me something to work on. I'm also sure more gearing would help performance.. always felt like the truck would benefit from 3.73 or 4.10s, I'll have to put that on the list as well..
The typhoon/pro products 5.8 efi intake can be polished up with a die grinder and flow up to par, and better than the Eddy performer rpm (for $300 cheaper as well!!). They can also retain all your eec-iv smog equipment. There are a few ford muscle, mustang power articles covering this budget intake.
4.10's are too much fun on stock tires! If you can gain access to a lift and a backlash gauge, the 8.8 setup takes half a day or so. I was surprised how easy it was...seemed like a daunting task at first. I've never cracked open the d44 (I outsourced that gear swap), but I imagine its a similar process. Except tearing open that whole front end, brakes, etc etc. might add a bit more time.
Originally Posted by Conanski
Yes.. I think that may be one of my next purchases, I'm curious where the air/fuel ratio stands and would like to optimize the current setup just to see what it's capable of. I already have an adjustable FPR with analog gauge on the fuel rail, but and electric gauge and A/F meter inside would certainly come in handy.
The Innovative (LM-1, LC-1) setups are very competent units. The LM-1 can piggy back right in to many OBD-1 data loggers and tuning packages such as the SCT pro racer package.
I think you'd be surprised where your A/F sits through the powerband. I'm guessing you have some lean spots as well. So maybe its good you keep it below 4000 as it sits today.
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