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Well I finally fixed the problem. After dropping close to $300 on new pads, grease, calipers, pin bolts, the problem ended up being - drum oll please ---
The freaking drums in the rear!!
It turned out that after greasing the contact points for the brake pads and drums, cleaning out the brake dust and wire wheeling rust from hub and drum contact points braking is smooth once again. I think what was happening was that the rust at the drum to hub interface was causing the drum to move slightly and sometimes it was misaligned causing the vibration. I think this because when I took the drums apart they just popped off the hub with no effort. I put a barrier of brake grease to prevent rust from showing up again.
I was really barking up the wrong tree, I dont feel too bad about spending money up front, at least I got new brake pads and calipers out of it....
Update - I was wrong in my last update. The problem came back intermittent and finally everytime I braked from 50-30mph. Seemed like the vibration slightly went away when taking left turns down hills.
Turned out that my 4 month old (3000 mile) FR brembo rotor was warped!! I feel dumb since that is the source of braking vibration is usually rotor related but I convinced myself that it could not be since they are Brembos and they were so new. Im starting to wonder if it was bad to begin with....
Im not too upset at replacing all the tie rods and front brake components - I guess I should consider it preventative maintenance on an 11 YO truck...
I also learned that it is possible to turn cross drilled rotors if the shop takes their time and goes slow.
This experience will burn into my brain that always check the most obvious things no matter if its new or not.
OK - I read on another thread to jack up front wheels off ground 4" and use pry bar between tire and ground to detect suspension play. I discovered that the driver side bearing is loose. I tightened it and it still gets occasionally loose as I drive - I know it sounds weird, but its almost like the bearing has detents or something. The races on the rotors are perfect - they are new also. Im going to replace the bearing. I sure hope that its not the spindle - it definitely looks like it was overheated at one point near the inner race area.....
if that bearing feels like it has detents, it is either shot or is too tight...i had seen a hub assembly laying on the side of the road the other day,in pieces...and scars in the concrete where it skided.i could only imagine one coming off at highway speeds...
check out that bearing right away.it could kill you or someone else.
please dont take it the wrong way..but it seriously needs to be looked at..
Thanks for your input. I checked the wheels and there are no detents. I did replace the LF bearing so it has gone away.?I checked the spindle and it seems to be in good shape - not perfect - with minor scoring and discoloration - probably from driving with loose bearings in the past. I never was that good at adjusting bearing tightness "by feel", so I torqued the spindle nut to 15ft-lbs (<20 ft-lbs max recommended torque) on both wheels.