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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Oil Cooler Replacement

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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:33 PM
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From: sedgwick me.
Question Oil Cooler Replacement

I recently purchased a 96 f-250 with a powerstroke. When it is running oil leaks out of the cooler on the side of the block, upon further investigation I found that it has rusted through. what I want to know is how much of a job is it to change it and what should I be aware of. I don't want any surprises so I figured I would ask.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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never done one myself but i think there is a few write ups around. from what i remember its a dirty job
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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From: sedgwick me.
it definately looks dirty! it has been referred to as an expensive chassis lube system what a mess of oil everywhere. This is the first powerstroke I have bought and the first time I have had this problem with an oil cooler. I own 4 other diesels ranging from 88 to 93 and none have had this problem
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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If the center tube is rusted thru you will be much better off finding a used one on ebay or a scrap yard. Any cooler off a 94.5 to 03 7.3 will fit and work correctly. Chances are if the center is rusted thru then the aluminum ends are pretty corroded (sp?) as well.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:11 PM
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From: sedgwick me.
yah Corrosion seems to be popular here in Maine especially since the introduction of calcium chloride on the state maintained roads
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:19 PM
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not too bad of a job just messy. pretty much bolt on the new one. if you get one from the scrap yard .if you get a reman. you wil just get the tube part and it can be a pain to press the ends back on.. good luck j
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:45 PM
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Yea, the chloride is a pain on my truck, really murdered the cab corners.

This year they put it down 2 times and lightly. So now i'm haveing susspension problems because of all the bumps!!!!!
Jerks.
They cant' even plow roads right here.

Clickies for you guys who i can give rep too!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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Instructions ...here....
Parts here...
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:31 PM
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I am just hoping that I don't have any problems! would it be easier to get to if I took the rubber inner fender out and how much of a pain is that ?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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From: Belair md
get it done before the oil mixes with the coolant
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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No you don't need to remove the inner fender. plus that is a lot of work! The front header bolts can be accessed with a long extension and a swivel socket thru the wheel well and the rears are easy too from underneath
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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.....x 2......
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:09 PM
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From: sedgwick me.
obviously I am going to want to drain the antifreeze down as well as the oil when I do this project right?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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Pretty much you will need to change both at the same time. You could drain the oil into a clean container but if you close to an oil change then jsut change it. the coolant just drain and get new along with anticaviation additive.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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From: sedgwick me.
I priced the parts at 300$ from the dealer including the pipe o-rings and gaskets. filter housing seems to have little corrosion if any but I haven't checked the front housing yet. I will keep in touch with any new discoveries.
 
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