I have this problem alot with all my ford trucks that I've put stereos and speakers in. I usually get the problem solved the same way. first off this is what the solenoid should look like for that truck http://www.autokrafters.com/v4files/...erSolenoid.jpg
(sorry if its not clickable and the solenoid is right next to the battery on the fender wall)
Make absolutely sure the connections from the battery to the solenoid to the starter are all tight and clean (be careful not to strip the copper threads on the solenoid, I've done it more than once ), if the engine won't crank, charge the battery up a little (the stock altenator on all of the trucks I've seen won't keep the battery charged correctly, if it has an aftermarket stereo over 400 watts, experienced this on models 84'-95' small block and in-line engines) if the engine still won't crank then your starter might be in a bind (you -can- fix this by putting the truck in reverse and drive and pushing it a little back and forth, or by removing and reinstalling the starter) and finally if it still refuses to start turn the crank intil it "gives" twice and retry, if none of that works your problems can range from: bad starter, bad battery, bad solenoid, and bad wires. Personally I would replace the solenoid and wires if any wear is visible, the corrision is seriously bad on these (sometimes you can't see it) I can't think of anything else off hand, but the click your hearing should be coming from the solenoid, if the solenoid doesn't click, then you can almost certainly tell its bad or has a bad connection.

 

also, if you can't see a solenoid, get one that model truck is supposed to have one

 

did you check all the grounds?

 

i replaced the starter and relay, they were very old anyway, van is from 1979.
rewired according to instructions on box of new relay, cleaned wire ends, cleaned terminals, battery is good.
I still only get a click at the relay.
Sux to be a beginner, don't lose patience with me rsalter66!!

 

There is only one wire going to my starter from the solenoid/relay.
Should there be a ground from the starter to the body?
I know i'm almost there.

 

is there a good ground from the (-) side of battery to the engine block and fender, there should be two. Does the motor turn over by hand like Baddad asked you a while back..?

Did you replace the starter by application or did they match up the old one you brought into the store. If they matched it up there is a good chance it's the wrong one. I'm digging here.....hard to fix things from my pc.

 

No it's grounded just by being bolted on.

 

Did you ever try and turn the engine by hand using a breaker-bar and socket on the crank bolt like was suggested earlier? This is the first step you should perform to make sure that the engine is not stuck for some reason.

 

well thats if the battery is grounded to block.

you need to check the ground wires coming off the battery...make sure there is one that goes the engine block (a big fatty)and one that goes to the fender/firewall.

and please check to make sure the engine turns over by hand.........!

if you want the help answer all the questions..........

 

The engine does turn over by hand, not stuck or seized.
The ground from the negative of the battery terminal only goes to the frame, not to the engine block, i will add that now...
I bought a light circuit tester, i don't think there is any power going to the starter, the wire must be bad because i tested the relay/solenoid terminal and the lights turns on there, but not at the starter terminal.

I will replace the wire from the relay/solenoid to the starter as well as add the ground to the engine block and let you know.

Thank you all so much, this forum is incredible, i hope i can help others some day.

 

sound like you got a handle on it now....bad wire and no ground on the engine.

I had a truck that lost the ground strap on the engine.......fried the throtle cable up in smoke......

 

My battery ground on my 77 is running from the negative post to a big bolt located under/behind the Alternator. Then I have a braided grounding strap running from the intake manifold to the firewall. If that helps you any.

 

so there should be two wires combined into the negative battery terminal?
one to the block, one to the fender?
or just one from battery terminal to block and a separate wire from engine to frame?
same thing? haha

think i'm getting there now

 

sould have one on the engine and the fender, radiator support or firewall.


if you think about it, the motor is mounted in rubber and the body/cab is mounted in rubber. So you want them grounded. Most factory ground cables will have a smaller wire made into the cable right at the battery so you can ground the body along with the fatty that grounds the engine. You can never have enough grounds, I see them on hoods, fenders, gas tanks, doors, everywhere on the newer stuff.

 

TADAHH!!!
Wow, that engine ROARED to life!!
i put so much work into this vehicle on my own, this moment is so worth it...
held the engine at approx 2000 rpm for 25 minutes or so to break-in the camshaft, no leaks anywhere, adjusted timing, gonna top up fluids...

Do you all recommend that method to help the rings seat?
accelerate to 50 then coast down to 30 and repeat?
i read it here on the forum and have a perfect road next to my garage...