I've managed to twist off the top half of the compression test adapter in the glow plug hole of cylinder number 1. It could have been worse; I could have started with 7 or 8...

I was able to pull the Schrader components out through the hole in the adapter, so at least they're not rattling around on top of the piston. I don't know what these are made of, but to twist off the top using fairly low torque, and to be able to pull parts through a hole that is supposed to be too small is fairly telling of extra super low quality tools. Seems to be a low grade pot metal coated with low grade chrome.

I started with a small screw extractor and it merely enlarged the hole; moved up to the next size and it has also enlarged the hole but stopped before completely working its way through. I put a fair amount of torque on it, but stopped out of concern that it too would snap off. These screw extractors are made of hard, but brittle stuff; and who decided to call them 'easy outs' anyway...

Drilling it out seems risky since I have no idea how I'd get the metal particles out of the cylinder; doesn't seem like a shop vac would be able to get the job done. I'd hate to break off the 'easy out' in there because drilling that hardened steel would be more than a PITA.

Does anyone out here have any experience removing these type of objects?

Oh, and I don't recommend buying the diesel compression tester from Harbor Freight.

Tom

 

Hi Tom,
I don't have a solution to help you unfortunately. I did buy the diesel compession gauge from Harbor Fr yesterday. I was $25. Did yours go in easily or any problems going in? I think maybe I will return mine.
Good Luck.
Bob

 

How much torque did you use....... the GP torque is only 12 ftlbs.... Before doing any more "Please" bring that cylinder to TDC if it is not there already.

 

I bought the Model 93644 with about 17 different adapters. They indicated no. 17 was the one to use on the 7.3 Navistar engine. It doesn't fit, but bottoms out on a shoulder in the GP hole; someone in another thread on this site said that there was another adapter that would work. I found it; it has 10mm x 1.00 thread, but is short without any extension to it; it's the no. 10 adapter. Half of it is in my engine.

I didn't use much torque on it at all and it just twisted off. If you're planning on using any of these "tools" I'd recommend that you make sure that the threads are clean, use a little lubricant or anti-seize on the adapter, and stop turning it at the slightest resistance. Better yet, return it to the point of sale and find a real tool. I'm still looking for one that doesn't come as a $650 kit...

Tom

 

Hey PLC7.3,

I have no idea how much torque I used. I was using a socket wrench to install it and it seemed to only be getting snug when it twisted off.

How does one go about getting the piston to the top of the cylinder? I have a remote starter button I was planning to use to crank the engine for the compression test, but I'd have no idea how to know where the piston was in its cycle.

Funny, I've got all the shop manuals for this truck but I don't have a clue as to do this fairly simple sounding thing...

Any advice you have will be most welcome.

Thanks,

Tom

 

One way to control the chips when drilling something out is to grease the drill bit heavily so that the chips stick to the grease and come out with the bit. In this case, check often for chips. You don't want any debris in the cylinder. You might also want to use a bit thatis well oversized so that as the fllange isdrilled off, the threads are not gripped by the bit and turned into the chamber. Then use the thread extractor (I can't bring myself to call them Easy-Outs either) to back the threads out. I am assuming that this thing has a flange type seat if not you may have to adapt. I haven't actually had to pull my GPs so I've never actually seen the business end of them or the tester.

Good luck and be careful.

 

http://www.toolsource.com/diesel-eng...r-p-58476.html

http://www.toolsource.com/diesel-com...y-p-55232.html

 

Thanks for the URLs browine... I'd seen those, but figured they were manufactured in China just as meticulously as the one that's still in my engine. Have you used these? Are they actual steel tools? There's a couple of week backlog on ordering them, but I"d do it if you know for sure that they're solid steel.

Thanks,

Tom

 

Sent a PM with info........ re timing and TDC. Have you tried using a reverse drill bit.... turns opposite direction and can in some case turn out the part that's stuck.

 

As PLC said a left hand drill bit may do the job for you.

I have seen them work better than easy outs.

 

Thanks, PLC7.3 for the info in the PM. I'll do that first, but I'm trying to understand why. I'm figuring that the valves will be closed at TDC and that the space in the cylinder atop the piston will be small, but don't get why that would help. I did notice that when I put the shop vac nozzle onto the GP hole that I got lots of air movement through the air intake; indicating, I guess, that the piston is at or near the bottom of its stoke since the intake valve is open - is that right?

After reading the input here and my shop manuals, it appears that the prudent thing to do would be to take off the head and remove the remains of the adapter. I used two reverse drill bits, but the material is so lightweight (maybe chromed aluminum?) they simply drilled it out; a steel adapter would likely have been grabbed and turned... I used lots of heavy grease that captured lots of the metal shavings, but based on my general run of luck these days, I somehow doubt that it got all of them. I'm thinking that with the head off the engine, I can clean out cylinder 1 of the greasy metal shavings, then use a thread tap to clear the remains of the adapter from the threads. Right now it is about a 9mm hole with original threads showing on one side and smooth chrome on the other. It'd be nice if I could just leave the head on and re-thread the GP hole, but I'm fairly certain that I'd manage to get metal shavings into the hole that would never come out with the vacuum; even if I sprayed a cleaning fluid into the cylinder and vacuumed it out.

I'll turn the piston to TDC and sit down with the shop manuals and see if I'm ready for this or not. I'm more of a 'first-aid' kind of mechanic; internal surgery is not something I'm trained for - but I've got all the books...

Thanks all,

Tom

 

A friend of mine said what he would do is first make sure it is at TDC, then, us your drill or easy out to get it all out. Then take out the injector. Then, blow air into the GP hole, and all the mess ought to come out of the injector hole. I've never done this, but it makes a lot of sense to me. Might not work if you have it all greased up in their. You also could put a small suction line into the injector hole and vaccuum it out maybe?

Wayne

 

you may have your engine at top dead center on the intake stroke there's two tdc strokes. one at compression and one at intake.the one at compression both valves will be closed.the one at intake the intake vale will open or starting to open

 

ps you would rather have tdc on compression both valves closed so when you blow out any metal savings they wont just blow them to the other side of the intake manifold thru the intake valve

 

At this stage I would get it to TDC....... If you wish to be certain it is at TDC compression stroke..... remove the timing cover/oil filler small inspection cover on the front, 2 bolts. You will see the three IP bolts and a dowel pin... when the dowel is at 4 oclock and the 0/line on the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is aligned that is TDC compression..... if the dowel is at 11 oclock that is TDC exhaust.

Remove the injector for that cylinder. Using a tap of the correct size run the threads..... the head is harder than the adapter and it should cut easier. With a vacuum in suction mode place the nozzle in the injector hole and start working on the threads. Use a clean vacuum so you can see what comes out.

You will need to obtain a new injector install kit/return line kit as you have now disturbed the old one.....leaks will happen when lines are disturbed. Kits can be obtained from.....

http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm

We can cover that info later.......