Been about 2 weeks with the CCV mod. makes LOTS of smoke at a stop. I get some weird looks as the smoke clears from other drivers. the 6' hose ends under the driver door which will have to change as it's finally getting cool enough outside to roll down the windows.

I also looked at last years emission paperwork (Phoeinx AZ). A 'PCV' is in the inspection so the truck will fail. I will have to return it to stock for the next inspection and may leave it that way.

Ever wondered why YOU have to drive your own truck for the diesel test? Like that feeling of the motor held up against the rev limiter over and over?

 

mine does the same thing. nothing to worry about. just oil vapor. look at the hose that is hooked up to it. mine is clear i can see how much oil collects in the hose on 8k miles i got like 1-1.5 oz from it not much. someone correct me if i wrong. lots of members have installed a collection box and routed the line back to the motor. gas car due the same thing. i had a oil catch can on my civic that was the same thing as a ccv.


Ryder

 

Here's another thing to keep in mind, and a potential "middle ground" option for you.

I have found that the CCV will smoke at different levels depending on which oil you run. With my Amsoil DEO 5w40, I had almost no smoke form it. With my Schaeffer's 9000 5w40, I have more smoke.

One thing I did to prevent oil drops in ym driveway was to build what I have termed a "Monster CCV Trap" to try to capture entrained oil droplets and condensation to keep them from hitting the ground. I have pics in ym gallery so you can see what I'm talking about. Currently, I do not have enough "entrainment separator" material (extra coarse scotch bright pad) inside the trap to actually help ensure that I catch all the condensation, which I will be correcting over Thanksgiving by inserting more.

Another observation I've made is that you don't condense as much vapor in the warm/hot summer months as compared to the cooler/colder winter mionths.

So what?

My point and suggestion for you is this... build a simmilar large trap where you can condense and separate the entrained oil and condensation, and then return the discharge vapors from the trap back to the doghouse on top of your valve cover. With the drain valve, you can catch and manage the condensation and trapped oils at your leisure, and at the same time the trap will help ensure that you don't have all that oily nasty stuff getting into your intercooler (you'll still get some, but it will be greatly reduced).

Personally, I don't see how an inspector can complain about the trap as long as it is not open to the environment and you can explain how you're also reducing air emissions by not burning as much motor oil and keeping your air intake system cleaner for more ideal performance.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey Pete, I did the same type of moonster trap. It was hard finding a "Y" pipe like yours, but I found one the next size smaller. Insted of putting a drain valve in the bottom side, it has a simple screw in plug that has a square "sump" for lack of anything to call it. I checked it with water and the "Y" will hold about 12 ounces of liquid. I checked mine after a 2,000 mile drive with the camper and the inside of the cap was only slimey....no oil to speek of. Thumbs up to you for coming up with the "Y" duct for draining any condensation. If I knew how to give "rep points" I would. If anyone knows how, you can email or PM me....Thanks again Pete.....Dave

 

Hey pete although I agree with you that you SHOULD be able to convince them it is better some states just won't buy it unless you pay millions of dollars in state filing fees and testing to SHOW it works better. I actually saw an article where a guy had developed a way of using the vapors off the gas tank to run the car at cruise increasing his mileage by almost double as I recall, he did it off the evap charcole canister, entire system was still a closed loop system but because he had removed a part of the EPA mandated emissions controls he was not in compliance, was fined and forced to put the car back to original before driving it on the road again. And it was less polluting than stock. and that was 20 yrs ago, I doubt they have gotten less stringent since then
Also Last year Toyota came out with a motor that would pass 2012 proposed emissions standards without a catalytic convertor, yet even though it would pass emissions 5 yrs in the future the EPA would not certify it because it didn't have a cat on it (toyota tried it with the cat and couldn't even come close to passing) just shows it doesn't matter how good it is it's about parts not tailpipe emissions.

 

Dave... glad it worked out well for you. I checked my drain valve twice since putting it in, and with the hot ambient conditions here this summer, I didn't trap anything it it. I'm really suspecting that the low amount of scotch-brite I put in there is part of the reason why, but not sure. I've got a bunch more I'm going to install just to make sure, though. The stuff is so coarse that I don't have to worry at all about creating too much pressure drop.

Monster, I understand exactly what you're talking about, and thought about that even as I typed the earlier post. I know that reasoning is neither required nor appreciated lots of inspectors (or lots of other people in general, for that matter). I'm always willing to try, though.

 

I've given this input so many times that everyone is probably tired of hearing it by now, but I figure if I save even one user the trouble of leaking turbo seals, or engine pan or VC gaskets, or worse, it's worth typing it again!

I have a pressure gauge that continuously monitors my CC pressure under all load conditions as I tow. I've used that gauge to measure my truck while towing with a stock CCV setup, and with my CCV mod. Check my gallery for the best way to do a CCV mod that minimizes the increase in CC pressure. Any configuration other than mine gives higher CC pressure with an increased risk of causing damage.

Don't run the CCV hose up and over the brake cylinder, make sure you can pour a cup of water in the doghouse end and have it drain completely into a cup at the other end. Any other configuration is asking for a potential problem. Don't use a collection trap or hook your CCV hose to your tailpipe! This will cause dangerously high pressure in your CC.

According to Racor, for a PSD any CC pressure in excess of 4" H20 is inviting a problem in the long term. If passing an emissions test is an issue, install one of the several Racor kits, but also install a CC pressure gauge to monitor how well the Racor is working because they've been known to clog without popping the warning indicator.

 

I read a lot of posts and reasearched the monster trap before i did the mod. I knew it would smoke some, but its way too much. looks like the easiest route is to add hose and move the problem to the rear of the truck until emissions.

I have built several traps with varied success for my bronco's 347. it sucked up the oil real bad when the engine was new. (5-6 oz in 100 miles). not so bad now but still enought puff smoke in startup. the design of the trick flow manifold is also to blame.

If I had the time I would like to weld a 3/4 tube into the 4" pipe and return the vapor from a trap. the factory plastic tube seems to have the opening going the wrong way, although I'm sure it works. Engineers are always right.*



*at least they think so

 

When running the CCV into the exhaust is done correctly you will have a constant vacuum on it, even at idle. The key is, it has to be done correctly. I have done no less than 5 CCV mods mounted into the exhaust with the same results.

All you need is a piece of 3/4" black pipe welded into a long straight section of your exhaust. It will need a little tuning (hammer) with a vacuum gage attached to the CCV end after it's welded.

I do not use the one way check valve on diesels you see in the pict below:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...tid=2680&stc=1

More info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ccv-flack.html

 

some one here argued with me over this..they couldn't understand why some one would sell this set up..i said some states that the ccv needed to be in place to pass state inspection...that's why they have a filter kit for ccv that catches the oil and the vapors go back into the intake..he was trying to tell me it is a waist to have this kind of filter...for me it is..but i can see for you it would be ideal...i will see if i can find it..i do remember it was pricey though..

 

It's also not very large, IIRC, Ron. That's what I like about the large y-trap I made for my truck... when the vapors are condensing in the colder weather, I don't have to drain it but about once every 4 months.... and since mine is from Home Deport PVC fittings, it's not very expensive to make.

 

If the plastic piece you're referring to is this... Click for full size image , then yes, the engineers were correct in orienting the scoop to face the incoming air stream. The Venturi effect from the raised portion that the plastic scoop sits on causes a lower than ambient pressure to ventilate the CC at lower boost conditions, and at higher boost this Venturi effect would suck all the oil from the CC. The forward facing scoop prevents this from happing by supplying a counter balancing positive pressure. I've done a lot of measurements and analysis on the stock CCV setup, and I suggest not messing with it unless you really think you know what you're doing.

The Racor CCV kits use this factory vacuum along with their internal regulator to control the sucking action on their oil separation filter. Their kits pass all federal emissions, and also keep the oil out of the IC.

 

I believe that there are very few of us in here that don't eventually run off doing things becuase we "really think we know what we're doing."

 

Gene, you are the math and physics police of this site. keep up the good work.

hence my * disclaimer/joke at the bottom.

 

I'd sure like to see your CC pressure measurements to support your claim, because based on both measurements and analysis I don't think your claim is possible!

I used my CC pressure gauge to measure the CC pressure in two trucks with your suggested setup. I took measurements on both trucks at idle conditions and revving the engine with no load, and one truck during a WOT dyno run. Even at idle their CC pressure exceeded the 4" H20 Racor recommended maximum, which is also a Ford CC spec. At WOT the CC pressure went to about 27" H2O, or almost X7 higher than the maximum safe level.

This pic might help explain why connecting your CCV hose to the tailpipe causes a positive (above ambient) pressure in your CC and not a below ambient pressure like you claim. First, the setup you describe isn't a Venturi, but even if you wanted to insert an actual Venturi into your tailpipe like the one in the pic, that wouldn't work either!

The pressure difference shown in the pic is between the lower pressure in the Venturi section and the higher pressure in the upstream flow region of the pipe. For a carburetor application the upstream pressure is ambient and the fuel bowl is at ambient, and the slightly lower pressure developed in the Venturi sucks the fuel from the bowel.

In your tailpipe the upstream pressure is higher than ambient and it increases for higher engine loads, and your CC should never be allowed to go higher than 4" H2O above ambient. Since 1 psi = 27.68" H2O, if the upstream pressure in the tailpipe is a typical 1 psi, the Venturi would have to develop a differential pressure in excess of 28" H20 to provide a vacuum to the CC. I can supply more details of my analysis involving tailpipe pressure vs exhaust flow velocity vs Venturi pressure if needed, but no one would want to clog up their exhaust flow with a Venturi anyway, so I don't think there'd be much reason for giving it.