Ok Gene now you answered my question a lot, I hadn't read earlier and forgot to take into account the affect the turbo has on exhaust velocity which as you stated does make all the difference in the world.

As to the type that creates vacuum it's simple exhaust evac system with the fittings intstalled at a 40deg angle into the 4" collector approx 4" from the end of the individual pipes (this is where i have found it seems to get the most effective unless your running less than a 8" long collector, in which case no closer than half way to the end of the collector or you loose to much pull) you can't really see the distance in this pic but you can see it coming into the pipes if you need a pic from the inside let me know and I will get it for you. But once again this is NA gasser so different animal but just needed the reminder of the effects of the turbo.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=78198&.jpg

And as stated earlier, mine already comes out of the VC almost level straight out to below the master cylinder then down to the frame and back along the outside of the frame rail to the rear end and dumps just in front of it.

 

I've had the CCV mod on for about 4 years now with no issues but a little bit of vapor.

I did NOT take off the my CCV mod and just had my 02 emission tested in Phoenix with no problems.

 

Steve, you may be right. I don't have pictures and stats of the mods I installed. I'm not an engineer nor an acuarial but I have been building performance/prototype engines (gassers) for 40 years in the GM tech center and my own shop. BTW: I've proved a couple of our engineers wrong more than a few time on the dyno and on the test track. I love it when someone tells me "It can't be done" or "it ain;t so". Theory goes out the window in the real world.

Gene, The first CCV I installed on PSD was 6 years/280K miles ago on a 01 7.3 without any oil blowing through the seals/gaskets or excessive oil consumption. The IC is bone dry, none of the boots have blown off and no fumes pouring into the cab.....The whole idea behind the CCV mod. BTW: It was blowing the boots off the the IC pretty regular after it was modde/chipped. It sees 30+ psi boost daily. The owner is tough on it.

There may even be some performance gains but there's no proof of that on diesels...yet. Pulling a vacuum in the crankcase stops ring flutter at higher RPM by creating a better ring seal. I'm pretty sure this is not a problem with diesels. The rings are thicker and the RPM is low.

I've seen as much as 20HP gains on the dyno (gasser). If you add a vacuum pump and can maintain 15 inches of vacuum it can go as high as 30 HP. 15 inches is about the most you want, anything higher and the wrist pins loose lubrication. Anything over 22 inches and you'll suck oil out of the engine. Makes a nice bug killer.

The next time that truck is in the shop I will get a vacuum gage hooked up and snap some picts.

 

This press clipping is from my glory days as an infamous race car driver of note! I still get by the St Louis area occasionally to have a beer with my race care buddies.

 

I looked at the pic of your installation and read your description of it it. I put your comment about not getting too far beyond where the header pipes join the collector pipe in bold face because that's a key issue I'll discuss.

Pic #1 is a diagram for a setup like you have. If you read those directions they're very explicit concerning where the bung must be placed, and how far it should extend into the collector pipe for various diameter collectors. Evidently someone's done some measurements and determined that the bung needs to be inserted about 40% of the collector radius. These directions also say to install a one-way check valve in each bung!

The following are my thoughts about how this system produces some vacuum. Each exhaust stroke is kind of like a gunshot, and it produces a short duration pressure spike followed by a trailing low pressure tail that's considerably longer than the spike. The bung placement is intended to allow the lower pressure tails to pull CC fumes, and the check valve is to insure that this flow remains one way during the passage of the spikes.

Now lets consider a PSD... The exhaust manifolds smooth out the individual exhaust pulses so that all the spike-tails run together and become an even flow at a more constant pressure. Then you collect the exhaust from both banks and combine them at the turbo to form a source or high temperature expansion pressure to spin the turbine. Then the residual spent exhaust is allowed to trickle on down the tailpipe to where everyone is installing their bungs, and claiming to have followed the directions in pic#1? The analogy that comes to mind is a hydroelectric turbine with a rushing stream of high potential energy water entering the turbine, and a spent low energy flow of water trickling on down the stream.

The other two pics are of typical installations on a PSD. Pic #2 is form jtharvey... "I actually just hooked mine into my exhaust today, putting it right before the T-pipe for my stacks. I just got tired of smoke coming out from under my bed. Used a kit from Jegs, ran some copper pipe, and attached my CCV hose to it. I'll get a pic uploaded here in a bit of what I did. Here is how I tied mine into my exhaust, very similar to what Kris has done." On this same thread I saw "strokin_it7.3... also cut the internal end on a 45* so you get that Bernoulli effect." The pic #3 is from RockyMtnRanger.

I know for a fact that the configuration in pic #2 will pressure the CC because it's just like the two trucks I measured at Smokin. Both of those trucks had their bungs at the bottom of their stacks, and there's got to be enough pressure there to help push the exhaust up against the force of gravity. I can't say for sure if pic #3 will work but I doubt it, however, it probably won't pressure the CC as much as the setup in pic #2 does.

I can also say that if any of these exhaust installations on a PSD was ever shown to work based on actual CC pressure measurements, it won't be because of the "Bernoulli effect" which says that regions with higher flow velocity have a lower static pressure, and it's this principle that explains the lower pressure in a Venturi.

 

Alright Gene, since you had to drag me into this, I'd like to test my CCV pressures. Guide me please....

 

Got duct tape???

He got ya.

 

Actually, I've discovered Gurella Tape...puts Duct Tape to shame.

Seriously though, now I'm curious and would like to check my CCV pressures. One - just as I have it, two - still exiting from the rear, basically just unhooking the rubber hose from the copper, and three - dumped straight down the side of the block like the Int'l heavy duty truck have it. No matter what, I will not plumb it back into my intake.

I think Gene said it too, but what kind of damage or excessive wear can high CCV pressures cause?

Gene, I'd like some directions on making a gauge, or if you've got a spare setup, I could use that for testing and send it back to you when I'm finished. Feel free to email me.

 

I can send you my portable gauge and special oil filler cap with the fitting installed on Mon. I assume you're still at the address where I sent the wheel?

 

This pic shows how I ran my CCV hose straight out the back with metal reflecting tape to the firewall Click for full size image and here's an earlier version of my CC pressure measuring setup Click for full size image Click for full size image. Later I changed to a more sensitive gauge Click for full size image and ran it to a fitting on the oil filler tube like shown here... Click for full size image

Here is the order form where I got my gauges, and here is the link to where I bought my gauge...

Here's the exact info on my gauges, the first is for CC pressure and the second for CFM.

<SMALL><SMALL>Phone:(609) 259-8900 Fax:(609) 259-3575 Internet:http://<span style="font-size:medium...</span></span></SMALL></SMALL>
<SMALL><SMALL>E-mail:http://<span style="font-size:medium...</span></span></SMALL></SMALL>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="95%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="5%">1 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="6%">1
Each </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="13%">4026K251 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=left width="46%">Low-Pressure Diaphragm Gauge 1.5% Accuracy, 1/4" NPT Center Back, 0-10" of H2O (Same as 4026K5)
</TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="10%">$49.65 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="11%">$49.65 </TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid" width="2%"> </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle width="9%">Monday morning
</TD></TR><TR><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="5%">2 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="6%">1
Each </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="13%">4021K47 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=left width="46%">Low-Pressure Differential Gauge +/-2% Accuracy, 1/8" NPT Fem, -15 to 15" of Water (Same as 4021K51)
</TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="10%">$75.55 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="11%">$75.55 </TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid" width="2%"> </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle width="9%">Monday morning</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


In addition to overpressure of their CC, I think those with the CCV going to their exhaust should also be concerned about having corrosive exhaust gas bleached back up the CCV hose and into the CC. On average the CC pressure will increase to the level necessary to expel the blow by out of the CC, down the CCV hose, and into the tailpipe. But when you hammer the throttle I think the exhaust will momentarily back up into the CC, then the CC pressure builds to the level necessary to push it back out. So I think you probably get a lot of back and forth movement of exhaust gas into and out of the CC.

 

Like I said earlier Gene I personally forgot about he affects of the turbo and when you brought that back up to my attention it was one of those DUH moments. I knew there was a reason mine went out to the rear end (had it under the cab straight down at first but didn't like the smoke coming up into the window when I had them down) and other then a >1" rise right after the dog house when the hose comes out of the engine it is all down hill from about 8 inches from the engine. Now I know you said down from the git go but wonder how much I am preasurizing this way, might have to check that out. Mine does NOT run up on over the master cylinder and the reason it doesn't go down like yours is I didn't turn the dog house around.
Something that might be of interest is different placements of the end of the hose. I know at low speeds it's not going to make a difference but at highway speeds it sure could I would think. I mean there is defiantly low pressure areas in and around a vehicle at 65mph (witness things like pop cans in the bed of your truck at 65mph with the tail gate up) and the low pressure areas are a major part of aerodynamics and in some case can be the cause for high speed instability (usually much faster then we are going with these trucks) but just a thought that you might be able to increase the draw or adversely you could possibly pressurize it if you happen to place the end in an area that gets high pressure at speed.
Just a thought.

 

This Click for full size image is where mine terminates, mainly because I used a special type of oversize diameter hose that only comes precut to 10' lengths. When I get a chance I'll get some more of the 1/4" dia hose that hooks to my differential pressure gauge and measure the pressure back there relative to that in the cab and report back!

Jeremy is going to be making road test measurements of CC pressure with and without hooking to his tailpipe, and I'm sure he'll be giving a report of those results.

 

Ok since this came up as a disscusion i have a question for anyone that can try to answer this for me ... a good while back i did the ccv mod and jus ran it down the side of the engine and dumped it off close to the axle at first i noticed a bit of white smoke out of the hose but i had heard that was normal then i read somewere else were it said to run it Up and around the brake cylinder for some reason or another ....so i went out and bought a bit more of line and ran it that way -so is this the wrong way ... could this be the reason im gettin an oily substance on the exhaust side of my exhaust ...? And if there is a Correct way please let me know be it with a trap or with out a trap draw up the way it should be routed or pictures would help thanxs everyone

 

I addressed all these questions in my posts on this very thread. If something still isn't clear from those posts let me know, and I'll try to explain it further.

Also, you might be experiencing the same "post CCV mod" effect I explained here... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/669993-oil-leak-after-ccv-delete.html

 

Just wanted to come back and let ya know that i re-did the ccv house , i found out that i had a kink in the line and when i tried to blow through and couldnt get any air to flow so i went ahead and ran the line differently. i guess this caused the oil to get passed the turbo and into the exhaust so i took the exhuast off and sprayed degreaser and brake cleaner and pressure washed it all out let it dry and put it back together when i connected everything i went ahead an let the truck sit and warm up then i took it for a drive and no oil came out when i came back from the test trip i still let it sit and checked to see if i had any oil at the tail pipe still clean so hopefully this solved my problem i had.