Well said... I think alot of people waste money on air filter changes. Much of it has to do with a lack of trust in the filter minder or too much trust in the dealer.

My filter minder did not start to move until about 85K and has been slowly on the rise ever since. I expect it will need replacement right around 100K.

 

Thanks Man! my Filter minder hasnt even budged!! WTF is my dealer talking about then? this guys too much....

Any other 30k mile, maintence that I should know about??

Thanks guys great info!

 

At 30k transmission flush and external by-pass filter change are do. You can do this yourself, procedure in the tech folder. Use only Mercon SP fluid, you can purchase from Diesel Filters Online for a reasonable price.

http://www.truckblog.com/story-582-h...t_transmission

 

So why does everyone I meet recomend that I get an AFE? intake for my truck??. I agree with you and worry about the conciquences...or is AFE original equip?

 

AFE is Not Stock equipment. Main reason people tell you to change is ignorance or greed. Most people know very little about internal combustion engines and especially the 6.0. That pass along rumor and heresay.

 

So I take it you dont recomend AM intakes?? Thanks for the warning I was concidering the idea too!

How do you feel about exhaust upgrades?

Performance chips?

 

What would be the purpose of an A/M air intake for the 6.0. The OEM Dondaldson Powercore, provides the best filtration on the market, supplies more air than the 6.0 can use until you reach 500+RWHP, and can last over 80K miles.

Exhaust up grades on the 6.0 accomplish two things 1) Lower EGT temps, 2) different sound. The lower EGT temps are helpful if you tow alot or run a tuner. You will see no power increase of fuel MPG increase with an A/M exhaust. You can either run a 4-inch Turbo or CAT back system. Turbo back reduces EGT about 50F lower than CAT back, but turbo back may cause warranty issues depending on your dealer. There is really no advantage to removing the CAT other than sound.

If you want a performance tune, the only way to go is the SCT XCalIII with custom tunes from Matt at Spartan Diesel or Eric at Innovative. The key here is the custom tunes.

Stay far far away from chips & inline module as they cause engine and transmission problems.

Do a search on these topics, there are thousands of posts on this and the SCT XCalIII with custom tunes from Matt or Eric have proven to be the safest and most reliable for the 6.0.

Understand the tuners generally will cause severe warranty issues with your dealer and FMC.

 

Ok thanks for the info, I have a lot of research ahead of me!

Great Forum!

 

I once asked a Donaldson rep what the difference between white Donaldson branded filter and the blue MC one is, and he said only difference is the white element does not have the layer of fine fiber that the blue one has, which improves filtering performance in high carbon (soot) environments. He did not say anything about water resistance. Is the white one really not water resistant?

Also, my dealer has a special on MC air filters right now for $60 installed. I'm at 30k miles but the yellow thing on my minder isn't even to the first mark yet. I'm half tempted to just go ahead and get a new one so I won't have to mess with it again for a while. What do you guys think?

 

The Blue media is a synthetic/cellulose composite media (Ultra-Web nanofiber technology) that is water resistant and provides better filtration than the white cellulose media., the white media is cellulose and not water resistant.

http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/s...ary/001220.pdf
http://www.ultrawebisalwaysbetter.co..._Ultra-Web.pdf
http://www.ultrawebisalwaysbetter.co...CleanerAir.pdf

Why change a filter that does not need changed. You can purchase a Blue media Donaldson Powercore filter from Diesel Fiters Online when the time comes for $54. The current filter you have is good for at least another 50k.
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/F...n-Fa-1778.aspx

 

Thanks for the white paper links, Blackhat. I only skimmed them but looks like a ton of good info.

Is 80k miles typical for the blue MC filter? It's been pretty dusty here in TN due to D4 (exceptional) drought this year. If I can really go another 50k with the filter I would not consider changing it now, but if I'm gonna have to do it within the next 10 or 15k miles I would be more inclined to take advantage of the $60 deal. Even with tax it's within a couple of bux to that $54 filter after shipping, plus they put it in for me.

Does the minder move linearly as the filter clogs, or does it sit still until the thing is 90% clogged, then start to move?

 

It moves slowly at first and then rapidly toward the end. It is a vacuum gauge and measures restriction. The engine will run when the filter minder shows max restriction.
www.filterminder.com.

Your mileage may vary, but I live in the Desert Southwest and get 80K easily. Others have run to 100k.

See how much the dealer will sell you the Blue media filter for and not install it. If it is cheap enough you can set it on the shelf.

 

Hey, there's an idea, I will do that.

BTW, I looked closer at those papers but did not find anything about water resistance or lack thereof. Can you point me to the info?

 

Look at what the Nanofiber is made from, it is an electrically spun polymer (ie synthetic) and is water resistant. Cellulose (ie paper) is not water resistant.

Notice i said water "resistant" not "waterproof"

 

Motorcraft Air filter is $48.43 plus shipping at
http://www.powerstrokeshop.com/