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a good set of tires will help the mileage, don't know if 10 ply will or not but its just safer to run them in these heavier trucks, i always ran 8 ply tires on my half ton
If you go from an E rated tire to a D rated tire, the Max load rating of the D rated tire is less and so you cannot load your truck to max GVWR or GAWR.
If you look on the sticker on the drivers b-pillar it will tell you the size and load rating of the OEM tires.
The load rating of the tire will have no effect on fuel mileage.
I went to D range instead of staying with E range tires on my 250. I run them at 65 psi and have found the ride much easier on the kidneys. I'm only giving up 125 lbs per tire load handling, so on a 250 vs a 350 I don't think that's much of a difference. I had the Toyo's before, now Mickey Thompson ATZ's. I've had them on for a couple of months now and I've been real impressed with the ride and quiet for an AT tire. I tow an 8500 lb trailer and the they handle the load just fine. My opinion is go for the 8 ply for your 250 if you want to soften the ride up a bit. Some would say go with the 10 ply and run them a lower pressure, but my local tire shop tells me the would wear right over time. Just my two cents.
I went to D range instead of staying with E range tires on my 250. I run them at 65 psi and have found the ride much easier on the kidneys. I'm only giving up 125 lbs per tire load handling, so on a 250 vs a 350 I don't think that's much of a difference. I had the Toyo's before, now Mickey Thompson ATZ's. I've had them on for a couple of months now and I've been real impressed with the ride and quiet for an AT tire. I tow an 8500 lb trailer and the they handle the load just fine. My opinion is go for the 8 ply for your 250 if you want to soften the ride up a bit. Some would say go with the 10 ply and run them a lower pressure, but my local tire shop tells me the would wear right over time. Just my two cents.
Just and FYI, by reducing the tire load by 125lb per tire, you have reduced your axle capacity by 250lb. This translates to a reduced trailer load of 1000-2500lbs.
TT tongue weight 10-15% of Gross trailer weight.
1667-2500lb reduction of availble trailer weight by reducing tire load rating by 125lbs per tire.
5th/Goosneck pin weight 15-25% of Gross trailer weight.
1000-1667 reduction fo available trailer weight by reducing tire load rating by 125lbs per tire.
If you do not tow or carry heavy loads then reducing your tires load rating is not a problem, however if you tow or carry heavy loads you need to run tires with the minimum factory load rating.
Everything in the truck depends on the tires. Why would you compromise your safety by going cheap? I'll find somewhere else to cut corners if I have to, but when it comes to brakes and tires I won't sacrifice safety at all.
Dont get caught up in plys. Make your descision upon load range.
Here are my tires.
Toyo Open Country A/T
285-65-18
Load Range E
Rated for 3640 lbs @ 80 PSI
The kicker is it is a 8 ply tire.
TREAD is 2 steel, 2 polyester, 2 nylon
SIDEWALL is 2 polyester.
No, you have Load E or 10-ply equivalent tires. Tire plys are the old way to rate tires based on bias plys, and you do not count the sidewall into this.
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers found inside the tire, but indicate an equivalent strength based on early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric body plies, or one steel ply. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...currentpage=38
Last edited by blackhat620; Oct 30, 2007 at 04:30 PM.
Just and FYI, by reducing the tire load by 125lb per tire, you have reduced your axle capacity by 250lb. This translates to a reduced trailer load of 1000-2500lbs.
TT tongue weight 10-15% of Gross trailer weight.
1667-2500lb reduction of availble trailer weight by reducing tire load rating by 125lbs per tire.
5th/Goosneck pin weight 15-25% of Gross trailer weight.
1000-1667 reduction fo available trailer weight by reducing tire load rating by 125lbs per tire.
If you do not tow or carry heavy loads then reducing your tires load rating is not a problem, however if you tow or carry heavy loads you need to run tires with the minimum factory load rating.
I'm not saying this works for everyone. I don't tow a gooseneck or a 5th wheel. My truck is a 250 not a 350 so I'm not loading anywhere near the maximum capacity of my tires. When I tow, I'm towing conventional trailers. My tires are rated at 3305 lbs per tire so I don't think I've got any worries. It still exceeds the truck's maximum weight rating. Typically I'm towing in the 8000 - 10000 lb range, I never max the truck out anyway or I would have bought a 350. But I agree that not everyone should reduce their tire rating. You have to be aware of what your doing to the trucks load handling capacity. I'd never have gone to the "D" rating if I had bought a 350.
I look at it this way. The extra load carrying capacity of the E tires is like a safety net. The load and dynamic forces on the tires are always thought of as static (3305 pounds per tire at 60 PSI) but are never static when the truck is moving. Road irregularities, bumps, pot holes and road debris will cause the loading of the tires to spike. Having the E tires means I have that extra margin before the forces on the tire might cause a tire failure. I don't want a tire failure when I am towing or hauling. I want to avoid that at all cost!
I'm not saying this works for everyone. I don't tow a gooseneck or a 5th wheel. My truck is a 250 not a 350 so I'm not loading anywhere near the maximum capacity of my tires. When I tow, I'm towing conventional trailers. My tires are rated at 3305 lbs per tire so I don't think I've got any worries. It still exceeds the truck's maximum weight rating. Typically I'm towing in the 8000 - 10000 lb range, I never max the truck out anyway or I would have bought a 350. But I agree that not everyone should reduce their tire rating. You have to be aware of what your doing to the trucks load handling capacity. I'd never have gone to the "D" rating if I had bought a 350.
Our thinking is a little different in this area. I always try to go over what is recomended by the factory. I have been on the side of the road with flats on my trailer. Not a good feeling. Factory calls for E rating for trailer, I put G rating on after a couple bad exper.
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