Well, I have replaced all the EGR sensors and the egr. Everything went well for a while now the egr is sticking again. Instead of replacing it AGAIN I blocked it off. It runs great but the CEL is on. Is there a way to trick the dpfe into thinking the egr is functional or am I just screwed on that??

 

Whats the problem you are having? What are the codes? The DPFE watches for exhaust pressure on both sides of the sensor, and when the EGR opens it wants to see a drop on one of the sides. If the EGR is commanded open and it doesn't see a drop, thats when it sets a code. Or if it always sees uneven readings when both sides are compared....

 

I've went over this in another forum. I replaced everything in the egr system. I am tired of dumping money in this truck. I have tested everything and what ended up being wrong is even with the vacuum line disconnected from the egr and the egr opens all the way. Not running I put a vacuum gauge on it and applied a vacuum and it worked great. It opened and closed like it should. When I started it it ran poorly and when I applied a vacuum nothing happened. EGR would open up even if it wasn't getting vacuum so I blocked it off

 

Your doing something wrong.
That EGR won't open by it'self unless it's faulty.
The EGR is a spring loaded diaphram. The motor vacuum will keep it closed unless it is stuck open. Do not apply more than 5 inched of vaccum to the EGR because that's is max during operation.
The vaccum regulator applies vacuum at the command of the PCM to the diaphram and overcomes the spring tension as well tries to equalize with the same vaccum it's working against, the motor vaccuum.
Do some real testing and find out what's going on.
Put a vaccum tee in the line between the vaccum regulator and the EGR. Pipe to a vaccum gauge and see if there is vaccum. Should be near zero.
Then you have a base to work from and not guess.
If the regulator is dirty or sticks open, then once the EGR opens, it will either not go closed or be slow in closing again because the regulator has to let air into the EGR to allow it to close again.
Until you get a lead from testing, you don't know what's going on.
Maybe some parts are hooked up wrong or there is more than one fault, now..

 

I bet your EGR ports are clogged in your upper intake "elbow". Lot of folks have overlooked them. I did it myself....Just a thought.

 

Scroll down to the string on the PO401 code-most likely the egr ports in the elbow are what's clogged. Vacuum on the egr valve during idle will or almost stall the eng.

 

Does Nobody Listen To Me. Egr Failed. Pipe Was Fine. I Had Excessive Flow. Egr Is Sticking Open. I Bypassed The Egr And It Runs Better Than It Did When It Was New. Is There Any Way To Trick The Computer Into Thinking The Egr Is There So The Cel Goes Off.

 

Your not listening!
You came here for help, now listen.
If the EGR is sticking open, replace it even if you did already or find out why it's sticking!
And no you can't get around it the way the system is designed.

Your getting close to finding out whinning won't fix it but finding out what's wrong , will.
I explained it to you, now do it or live with it!

 

I Am Listening. I Am Not Asking How To Solve My Egr Problem. I Can Not Afford To Buy Another Egr. Plain And Simple. The One I Have Now Is A Year Old And Did Not Last. I Am Not Going Through That Again. I Know There Are Ways To Trick Sensors Like I Tricked My Secondary Oxygen Sensors Into Thinking The Cats Are Still There. I Guess I Am Not Going To Get Any Help Around Here. Egr Is Just Bad Bad Design All Together. Hot Air Into My Intake? Retarded. I Guess I Will Just Have To Figure It Out On My Own.

 

azazel, i think the guys are saying the CEL can not be tricked because the EGR can give an open failure, or a closed failure, you cant trick it at both end. if you want the EGR disabled then you have to live with the light.. EGR sounds like a bad idea, and they were poor 20 years ago. today they work in conjunction with the computer to keep polution in check, and actually do a pretty good job of it. my 2001 runs a lot better, beter mmilage and better acceleration than my 1978 with a 351, and i had the EGR off it.

 

Your right, there is no help doing what you want to do.
Proof = the codes P0401 and P0402.
They are codes for low flow and to much flow.
You can't fool the PCM out of this by blocking or removing anything or any plug-ons to an EGR system because they are dynamic tests the PCM does at various times in the drive cycle.
Good luck.

 

Here we go again on the EGR discussion...


Anywho, you can disable it with a tuner. I know that the Diablosport Predator that we have for the Expedition will turn off the EGR

 

He can't afford to fix what he has let alone buy a tuner to turn it off.

 

Ironic, ain't it?

Most likely, he bought the DPFE sensor from AutoZone (or similar) and it already crapped out on him.

Steve

 

I know how frustrating this particular problem can be. I cleaned my TB ports(nasty, nasty), cleaned up into the bottom of the EGR, replaced rubber hoses coming in to the TB, tried to fix the DPFE(it was toast), modified my cold air intake, and fixed the leaky heater hose over the #8 spark plug that was misfiring. You know how I got the check engine light to stay out? I took apart the dash and now I keep the little lightbulb in my ashtray. It hasn't came back on in 2 months.