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I think swapping the rear is your best option. I looked at www.car-part.com and it looks like you should be in one for 3-400 easily. maybe even cheaper. use the site I listed and you can enter all your local info. I looked up arkanasas assuming thats where you live. Search for "axle assembly rear (w/housing)" and you then in the next page select SRW (w/ABS), 3.55 ratio and you will see what you need.
great keep us posted!! plus you can sell your old one!! maybe even see if they want to trade. Just make sure you check the brakes and all that. maybe swap your known good brakes over to the new axle.
When i did my rear end swap, i just threw everything together and took it to the break shop and had them put on all new parts.
The a-holes at the junkyard cut the rubber break line from the frame to the axle in half, so i coudlnt' get it off. And was much easier to plug it and drive it there and say, "all new everything please!" with my hefty discount it was like 160 in brakes.
GL on your swap. Get new U bolts too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That zf has a crazy low first, so haveing 4.11's is insane for a ZF and towing. Unstopable in 4wheel low and 4.11's, you'll break something whatever it is.
full floating axle is like ours. The axle shaft holds no vehicle weight. The inner and outer hub bearing does the weight bearing work. On a semi floating the axle does hold the vehicle weight with one out axle bearing. Semi floating are used on half ton trucks and rear wheel drive cars for the most part.
well i found a 3.55 axle out of a 95 2wd i don't think it has limited slip but i got it for $250 so what would it cost me to do what coonhunterjoe did to his truck with the super duty parts
Yes sorry i should have been more clear. You will need to buy a new/used limited slip differential carrier (that part the ring gear is bolted to inside) then if its used chances are its clutches are shot and those run about $100. So you could be up to $300 for that deal. By that time your close to the cost of a lockrite locker that will fit right into the differential you have now.
Sounds like you're already on the way to swapping the rear. Do you tow/haul much? If you do and it's not too late you might reconsider keeping the 4.10. I don't think you'll notice that much fuel savings w/ the 3.54/3.55. Since getting the 4X4 working ASAP is a priority, you'll benefit from the lower ratio off road. Swapping the front pumpkin would also be the easiest route to take. I have 4.10s and a 5spd and love the low 1st gear.
Last edited by powrstrkr; Oct 30, 2007 at 07:45 AM.
i don't tow enough to need 4.10's and i dont' even use my first gear expect when i do tow and on the highway i'm turning to many rpms i'd rather have the 3.55 so when i do some mods maybe i can blow the doors off some cars at 90 if i buy this lockrite locker will i need to re setup the whole rearend or is as easy as unbolting the axle shafts sliding them out and take the 3rd member out and swapping the ring gear onto the locker
Actually the lockrite goes inplace of the spider gears in your current carrier from what I understand. Slid ethe axles out. remove the bolt pin and spider gear pin. remove spider gears and side gears and slip the locker in, reinstall axles and button it up.