Injectors
. Now I have 1 leaking for the third time. Is there anywhere i can get info on changing them myself, is it hard or should I pay a garage a 3rd time to replace them.
I had a defective injector that leaked there a couple years ago.
The set had been rebuilt recently so I just installed that one new.
Not a big deal, but you will need to replace all the return line O rings on that engine bank when you change it.
If you don't, shortly you will have starting issues and will be working on it again.
Given the cost of new injectors, it should be a less than 50 dollar repair if you do it yourself.
Noabout 6mths after. Where can I get info on how to change them. Ive worked on gas vehicles before but no diesel this is my first one.
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First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
How to injectors.....
Injectors are easy, remove the line cap nuts, gently move the line away sufficient to remove the return lines/caps, then using a 1" socket "DO NOT BEND STEEL LINES" unscrew the injector. Remove the copper seal if left in the base of the bore.
If there is carbon in the bore.........
Place the cylinder at TDC. Clean the bore but do not dump carbon into the cylinders, best to remove the GP and if major amounts of carbon are found, then use a vacuum to clean/suck debris out through the injector or GP hole.
Injector........
Installation is reverse, "DO NOT DAMAGE THE NOZZLE TIPS" you can put "new kit orings" on the injectors but they come with some on already. To replace useing vaseline or??, roll the first oring into first groove, roll second over it to lower groove trying not to cut them. Put a new copper seal on the injector tip, I hold it in place with antisieze, antisieze the threads and barrel, torque to 35lbs, book says twice?. Install the new caps and line "sets" made up "by you" identical to removed sets, use more vaseline inside caps, press down on caps until they snap/pop into place. Connect the line caps torque is 22 ftlbs.
If you haven't found anything black magic about a diesel, I guess you haven't changed the oil yet and got some on your cloths and hands.
Used diesel oil is black magic.
The oil is really black and magically ruins everything it get on.









