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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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sla3492
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Angry Injectors

I have a 92 F-250 7.3. I have had it in the shop for the injectors leaking 2x in the past year and paid big money to have them changed . Now I have 1 leaking for the third time. Is there anywhere i can get info on changing them myself, is it hard or should I pay a garage a 3rd time to replace them.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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they are very simple to change put i dont think that the injetor it self is the problem. it could be return line orings or the hard fuel line going to the injector. do you have problems starting it when its could. how bad is the leak. is it the same injector that was leaking before. can you tell where its leaking from
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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Yes theyve all been replaced, i think its a o ring or something its dripping pretty good form about the middle of the 1 injector. Never have any problems with it starting.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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not where it screws down, Ive tinkered with gas engines but this is my first diesel. I'm pretty ignorant on diesels. Ive had it about 2 yrs and put about 5G in it in repairs. I love the truck but all these problems are getting old.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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my guess would be that you need to replace the hard metal injector line going from the pump the the injector.Try to tighten the nut on the line first. did this start right after they put the injectors in?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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There is a joint in the injector case about 1/2 way between the return tee and the head.

I had a defective injector that leaked there a couple years ago.
The set had been rebuilt recently so I just installed that one new.

Not a big deal, but you will need to replace all the return line O rings on that engine bank when you change it.
If you don't, shortly you will have starting issues and will be working on it again.

Given the cost of new injectors, it should be a less than 50 dollar repair if you do it yourself.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by brownieboy525
my guess would be that you need to replace the hard metal injector line going from the pump the the injector.Try to tighten the nut on the line first. did this start right after they put the injectors in?

Noabout 6mths after. Where can I get info on how to change them. Ive worked on gas vehicles before but no diesel this is my first one.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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Do a search in this forum(if it's working) and you will find lots of info. Don't be afraid because it's a diesel. I am new to them too, but am finding out they are basically just another type of engine with it's own quirks that you have to learn about. I have found nothing really black magic about a diesel engine.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 10:19 AM
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Here is how to....return lines.
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.


How to injectors.....

Injectors are easy, remove the line cap nuts, gently move the line away sufficient to remove the return lines/caps, then using a 1" socket "DO NOT BEND STEEL LINES" unscrew the injector. Remove the copper seal if left in the base of the bore.

If there is carbon in the bore.........

Place the cylinder at TDC. Clean the bore but do not dump carbon into the cylinders, best to remove the GP and if major amounts of carbon are found, then use a vacuum to clean/suck debris out through the injector or GP hole.

Injector........
Installation is reverse, "DO NOT DAMAGE THE NOZZLE TIPS" you can put "new kit orings" on the injectors but they come with some on already. To replace useing vaseline or??, roll the first oring into first groove, roll second over it to lower groove trying not to cut them. Put a new copper seal on the injector tip, I hold it in place with antisieze, antisieze the threads and barrel, torque to 35lbs, book says twice?. Install the new caps and line "sets" made up "by you" identical to removed sets, use more vaseline inside caps, press down on caps until they snap/pop into place. Connect the line caps torque is 22 ftlbs.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 07:51 PM
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Franklin2,
If you haven't found anything black magic about a diesel, I guess you haven't changed the oil yet and got some on your cloths and hands.

Used diesel oil is black magic.

The oil is really black and magically ruins everything it get on.
 
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