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I changed the clutch slave cylinder in my 89 F-150 4x4 yesterday, the slave was almost dry and the tube only had a little fluid left in it. After the change i re-filled and bled the system. There is a diafram in the resivor that i removed to fill the system with fluid, i put it back and bled the system, should i have also poured brake fluid in on top of the diafram?
Just to clarify, put the fluid in and then put the black rubber diaphgram in. No fluid on top of the diaphragm. Then remove your trans inspection plug and look in it to see where all your fluid is going, because you may have a leak at the slave cylinder or at least leaking somewhere if the fluid had gotten low.
In these hyd. clutch setups, the fluid is kept pretty low. That diaphragm takes up a lot of space in the master. I noticed this in mine. When you go to put the cap back on, it just pushes the excess out.
Thanks for the help....This thing still is hard to get into gear, At a stop light i have to double pump the clutch to get it to shift into gear. I also have trouble getting it into reverse, I have to shift into a forward gear then reverse real fast to keep it from grinding. I have replaced the slace and bled the thing to death, Any ideas?
There is a bushing (($2.00 or so)) that is on the linkage end of the pushrod that goes into the clutch master cylinder. There is very little travel at this point, and if the bushing goes and you loose that .020 of travel, the clutch WILL NOT fully disengage and will be hard to get in gear/shift etc etc..
If there is 50,000 miles or more on your truck it's a good place to start looking
Everyone with 50,000 or more should check thiers!!!
If the bushing goes completely, It wears the Pin that the push rod pivots on and adds $$$$$ to the repair.
I will take a look at the bushing in the morning, thanks for the tip. What i have noticed is that in the mornings (cold) the ckutch is real easy to push and it shifts great, after a a little while it becomes stiff at the pedal and does not shift well. Any thoughts?
Mine did that too. My new master cylinder shaft has a adjustment nut (the Ford OEM does not) on it and I lengthend it quite a bit. I've worn out 2 of these plastic bushings which also hold the rod to the pedal. On my last effort I cut a new bushing out of one of those heavy drinking straws that the really big drinks come with. And then tightened it together with 2 cable ties. Its lasted 2 years and still works.
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