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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 10:59 PM
  #31  
deebee53's Avatar
deebee53
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One the "fog" clears the room, you should be fine. It'll still smell like paint, but I've been guilty of worse . . .
 
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #32  
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codys50ford
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From: Baton rouge, Louisiana
See good thing i asked, im sure ide be standing outside waiting my lifetime for the smell to leave haha. Should i be worried about sanding dust in the air or one the skin... or just no different from regular paint?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 06:47 AM
  #33  
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Guy's, Here's a trick an OLD man taught me way back in the late 60's about rustoleum, and basic alkyd enammels. use Amoco white un-leaded gas for thinners, Works great, dries fairly fast, and has a decent shine, but DON"T SMOKE in the area while spraying, of for a good while after you finish. And by the way, it's cheap thinners too !!
 
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 07:56 AM
  #34  
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the gas sounds like a really bad idea but i could be wrong
 
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:36 AM
  #35  
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f100kid1936
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Nytling an Deebee, I had already planned on redoing the door. I knew I'd never buff it out. But that is some good info from both of you and the others.
I'd be real uneasy about using gasoline for a thinner!
 
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:36 AM
  #36  
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Maybe with the old Amoco, but now it contains a lot of extra chemicals such as FI cleaners and oxidizers to keep from clogging up cat converters. Naptha is the same as what we used to call "white gas" that you burned in Coleman lanterns and stoves.
As for the mask, if the paint safety sheet doesn't call for supplied fresh air mask, then be sure the filters in your mask are rated for organic vapors (solvents) not just for dust. Change the filters after each use, they are cheap safety. If you can smell solvent with your mask on it's not the right type or the filters are dead. If the MSD calls for a supplied fresh air mask, DON'T paint without one!
 
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:56 PM
  #37  
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codys50ford
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ok, today i primed the cab of my 50 with transtar urethane primer. It went on verry good and covered well. I must confess that i did not sand all the rustoleum off that i sprayed about a month ago onto the truck. Its really bothering me wondering if i made a mistake by not sanding it back down. Even though the coat of rustoleum i left on there was a verry thin coat i still feel like i should have taken it off, but the primer seemed to stick verry well though. I was just looking for some info on if its ok or if its not....
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 07:28 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by racerpete84
Guy's, Here's a trick an OLD man taught me way back in the late 60's about rustoleum, and basic alkyd enammels. use Amoco white un-leaded gas for thinners, Works great, dries fairly fast, and has a decent shine, but DON"T SMOKE in the area while spraying, of for a good while after you finish. And by the way, it's cheap thinners too !!
Very bad idea! If the gas you're talking about is the same as we use in our cars it's very dangerous to use. Gasoline vapors stay toward the ground and can creep to a flame or spark. Using gasoline for anything else other than fueling a vehicle is aways a bad idea.

BTW, in the early '80s I worked for a auto supply store that did radiator repair. The radiator shop would send us across the street to where we parked and fueled our delivery trucks to fill their five gallon gas can they used to thin the paint they painted their repaired radiators.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #39  
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what are ur thoughts on this product?? i sprayed my entire cab w/ PPG DPLF epoxy primer...thats what was suggested to me by the local body shop..thats all they use.. seems to work great? my only problem w/ it is the cost... for a gallon of primer, 2 quarts of catalyst,a gallon of thinner ( to clean up w/) was $257.00 i was told it goes along way...yet ive sprayed the entire cab inside and out..seam sealed the floor and sprayed those seams.. the inner fenders..and upper and lower grill panels..and ive used one half gallon of primer...
i was laughed at by the supply store and he said i must be putting it on WAY to thick...but i dont feel i am...just getting good coverage.... he told me no harm either way.. but its a huge harm to my wallet if i need to buy more.. i still have the hood,grill,doors, frame, and the entire bed to spray..
thoughts? did i get poked for the price of this stuff? and/or is there something as good but much cheaper? thanks.. this is a great source of info....problem is im not getting any of my "real job's" work done...hahaha...
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 08:29 AM
  #40  
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49fordf1, That is about the going price, My Dupont cost about $275 a gallon w/o the gallon of clean up thinner. You can roughly paint the outside of a car with a gallon of paint, so when you are talking about doing the inside and underside of the cab, inner fenderwells, frame, plus all the outside sheet metal I'm guessing that I would probably use 2 1/2 gallons of primer, this is just a guess. Like I stated before I use Dupont because I'm used to it and my local service but PPG is very high quality also and if you use this you should have no problems later. It is expensive but I look at it this way, I'm doing custom painting on the side and I have jobs waiting on me, I can't afford to redo a job with as little free time as I have already. So far(knock on wood) I have not had a come back for a paint problem, only repeat customers. Take your time and look at all the small details it will make all the difference in the end result.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 08:47 AM
  #41  
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The Epoxy primer is a bonding and sealing coat not a build up for sanding product. Just put on enough to get full coverage. Are you using a HVLP gun with the right nozzle for primer? Are you thinning the primer to the recommended consistency?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 09:39 AM
  #42  
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49fordf1
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From: MA
ax,
ummmm i think so? haha. yes hvlp gun....but as far as the thinning i was told to just mix it 2:1... no thinner...
as far as the tip.. it seems to be spraying perfectly... maybe im just doubling it up or too thick.. thats my guess...i think i realized i was going to heavy on my last attempt.. and what i found was..im spraying the black primer...when it flashes over it dries a lighter black then the wet ofcourse...so it appears like it not completly covered... so i assume thats where im using the extra... rookie mistake....
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 06:17 PM
  #43  
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Spray it with a 40-50% overlap on each pass. Don't worry about getting full coverage on your first pass either. Going back to the spots you "missed" will end up using alot more paint. After spraying, set the gun down then go back and closely inspect everything, looking at all different angles to make sure everything is ok. Nytling is right about the paint, don't cheap out. The paint job is only as good as its weakest link, so you can end up having lifting or excessive shrinking with cheap stuff. There is a reason body shops use the more expensive paint.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 06:30 PM
  #44  
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WALFORD'S 56
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From: oh
I spray only enough epoxy to cover the bare steel...Any more and it is a waste. I use a high-build primer or feather-fill for any imperfections after the initial primer. You have to examine what quality of a job it is that you are painting......I am not spending 300.00 for primer on a job that doesn't matter. I am sure if you are savvy---your paint job will be fine. Painting is expensive----try to keep cost down by doing it properly. Bill
 
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