I just got my truck about 4 months ago never I thought to check the heater when it was 100 degrees outside, I turned on the heater and it started yellin and growlin! Whats wrong cuz it aint warmin up

 

My 68's heater didnt work well because someone put talcum powder down the vents and it had worked its way and started to plug the heater core. Dont ask how it went backwards. Oh ya, the giant holes in the back of the cab and the floor boards dont help either!

 

I no all about big holes (in the floorboard So, its prolly the heater core

 

Growling noise from heater = air in the system.

On the right fender apron spliced into the heater hose is the heater temperature control valve = C3UZ-18495-B (Motorcraft YG-132)...the Bowden cable from the dash control attaches to it. The valve tends to rust out, and/or the arm the cable hooks to may have worn. When this happens, even though the arm moves, nothing is happening internally.

The valve is available from Ford and autoparts stores.

 

Thanx man, ill check it out.

 

Is the noise when you turn the fan on, or when you turn it to heat? If it's the fan, there is either something lodged in it or the motor itself is done. Should be able to pull that without too much trouble.

 

Check to see if there is a thermostat in the engine, no stat, the water does not stop in the radiator long enough to heat up.

 

I replaced the blower motor now no noise but its not very worm!

 

Did you check the thermostat? What does the temp gage say, or read? If the engine is not coming up to temperature, you will not get any heat.

 

check your heater core to see if it is shot.
look at the firewall where the 2 hoses connect to the 2 pipes on the heater core. if there is any crevice for cold air to hit it or if they stick out a little then wrap some foam pipe insulation around it and some duct tape.
rip out the heater control valve, you dont need it. and even if it functions it may only be functioning 90%
put your hands or better yet get an infrared thermometer and make sure the temp of both hoses are the same.
remove your old thermostat and install a 195 degree one or hotter than that if you can get one. now your fluid is hotter = hotter heater
on the passenger side next to the door do you have a little vent thing with a boot that attaches to the heating duct assembly? in the on position you get ice cold air from the outside feeding your heater at all times and causes it to be blowing even when the fan is off and in the summertime also. and in the off position that ice cold air comes straight into your cab. a pain in the neck is all it is. take off that rubber boot, shove an old tshirt in there and cover the opening with duct tape. now your heater core sucks warm air from inside the cab versus cold air from outside. now that you can reach into the duct and feel the heater core make sure it doesnt wiggle around at all. if it does then the air is trying to go around it instead of through it, so shove some foam insulation in the sides if you have to.
finally you might need a new motor or take the sucker apart and figure out whats wrong with it.

 

I have the opposite problem, I can't shut off my heater, it is always willing to blow hot air and the thermostat dial doesn't work. I had a friend watch the thermostat cable move when I moved the slider and it worked as far as what is visible, but I think the valve it opens/closes inside the hose in front of the firewall is not working and is stuck wide open. I need to fix this by next Spring. I will look for a new/replacement part for it.

 

I took the heater out of my truck all together, i love living in so. Cali. never used it never miss it.

 

yall aways have great news for me, it couldnt of been, o just tighten up a screw! now could it

 

Theres always a comedian in the bunch!

 

It was the therostat, thanx