transfercase mounting progress (finally)
(and i even put some thought before welding into this one
)........i had a few things to take into consideration,
1. wanted to re-use the front crossmember from my Jeep (that was the original use for this dual-transfercase)
2. i wanted to combine the rear mount with the rear lower control arm mounts
3. make it solid enough to mount my single (or dual) hydraulic actuators for my "dump flat-bed" system that is yet to be designed.
4. build in some adjustability, i can shim either the front or rear, up or down and also the rear can be slid alittle left or right.
5. locate it in a good functional and visually location, not to low/high or forward/aft, (thats why the factory crossmember had to be cut out and replace with one with a "hump". and now the cab floor will have to be modified......
i alway seem to make stuff harder that it needs to be....
still gonna touch up some welds, grind acouple corners, and add gusset or 2.
also a couple more current pics here; http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/3transfercase
I'm in the process of gathering the bits and pieces I need for my 4x4 swap as well (building a HD Dana 44, and using a NP205/C-6 combo). Get to pick up my axle housing tommorrow night and then I should be able to start assembing and fitting everything into place. Hopefully within the next few weeks I can get things mocked up and see how well its gunna work.
I think the only thing I have yet to decide on is on what donor to scalp front leaf spings off of.
Is it just me but it looks like there might be some interference between the gusset on your x-member and your driveshaft (once you get it in place)?
How did you manage the radius in that x-member. Either you've been eating your Wheaties or you have access to some nice equipment.
Looking good
Bobby
I think the only thing I have yet to decide on is on what donor to scalp front leaf spings off of.
i'm planning on needing to "fine tune" my leafs, by adding/changing/removing what i have now to get the ride and height i want.
good luck picking up the housing, gotta love those road trips........
bobbytnm; the clearance for the front driveshaft is pretty tight, but i'll be using a 2-piece shaft. so the section coming off the transfercase will be fixed.
the front crossmember i actually bent (the 2" x 3/4" stock) by heating it and bending by hand (with gloves
i'm planning on needing to "fine tune" my leafs, by adding/changing/removing what i have now to get the ride and height i want.
good luck picking up the housing, gotta love those road trips...
Yeah, I can wait to pick up the housing tonight, found a guy selling a dana 44 off of a 76 bronco thats just up the road from me. $100 for the axle (minus hubs, gears, and axles). The width of this axle is within a 1/2 inch of the stock F-3 setup, so I should be set. Already got the 79 F-250 knuckles, spindles, brakes, and hubs to go on it
Just gotta strip all the brackets and wedges off the housing (no these are not the cast wedges, they are welded on) and weld on a set of spring perches.
When I decided to put the 500 Caddy in my F1 I had my front springs rebuilt and had them add a leaf just in case. Turns out that wasn't needed and I've since removed a few leafs and need to take another out as well.
Of course using some longer late model springs would probably give a better ride and allow for more suspension flex and travel.
Bobby
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I'm using the main leaf from a fullsize dodge plus some other 2" wide leafs (or is it leaves) from my scrap (also know as "good stuff") pile behind my garage.
i think the factory leafs would work, maybe with an extra or 2 depending on weight and height wants. but the longer wider packs are usually prefered.
i'm not planning on welding the forward mount to the frame until the front clip is test fitted. also i might go with a slightly longer or shorter shackle to further fine tune the caster angle and ride height.
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