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Well thanks to everyone who has given me ideas so far. But the war isn't over yet. I removed and cleaned the bypas solenoid. Unplugged the CTS. And still I haven't gotten it started. Even tried changing the oil , but she spins freely and fast.
So here's the history so far. When I had it towed ( I Checked The Collision Sensor under the dasH) to my house I would fire. I replaced the coil, rotor , cap, and ignition module.The ignition module is generic not a motorcraft, but made for my 4.9 88. I gave it a squirt of starting fluid and she kicked right over and ran smooth. I put injector cleaner in the tank with gas stabilizer and ran her for 2 hours. So here I am and my wife is getting a kick out of this.
I accessed the error codes and I get a 24(air temp sensor) and a 67 (?). I replaced the air temp sensor but still no luck. I don't have a listing for a code 67. Any ideas would be appreciated. I willing to try anything but bring it to the dealer.
Here is Code 67
:67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault
If your Park/Neutral switch went bad, your truck will not start.
Here is the link to the page i found your code.http://dalidesign.com/hbook/2digit.html
Here's my $0.02. Recently I had a no start problem on my 89 F150 4.9L M5OD 4x2. It had no power to the fuel pump, turned out the EEC power relay had broken terminals. I jury rigged (bypassed) the EEC power relay and now everything works.
The tricky thing for me was that I could put 12V to the fuel pump, crank the engine and still not start. The problem was that the EEC power relay powers the computer as well as the injectors. I was getting fuel pressure to the rail but no injector opening. I'm not sure if the EEC power relay powers the ignition module.
Again, this probably isn't your problem but it stumped me for a while so thought I'd pass it on.
These guys save me when I try to brain storm my truck problems and there's been some excellent suggestions. Here's my .005 cents worth: if it ran at all, I would think the electronic engine control module was OK. If it was a carb model, I'd say you had afuel flow problem, because the starting fluid got it going and the vacuum of the engine would have enough pressure to suck fuel with a bad pump. But with injection, I don't think that can happen. Starting fluid will make a motor run with a weak coil and once it going it'll keep going. The coil won't throw a code and your codes seem incidental. I'd go back and check that coil, sometimes even a new is bad. Having a problem like bad contacts on the EEC is tough to find! If its something like that you'll need to spend some time systematically evaluating each system.
I posted as "autocar" above. The EEC power relay wasn't too hard to diagnose, I knew with a test light that I didn't have power to the fuel pump relay. So I got out the wiring diagram from three different books (Haynes, Chilton's and the factory) and found what was feeding the fuel pump relay. Turns out it is the EEC power relay. I checked to see if I had power feeding the EEC relay, which I did, but I didn't have power leaving the relay. So I put 12V to the downstream side of the EEC relay. The fuel pump clicked on and the engine started.
What had happened is the ground wires (2 share the same terminal) had corroded and broken off at the base of the plastic connector. There was no way to see this, even when I pulled the connector and looked at it. I had to physically pull on the wires, and two of them came off in my hand.