Bad Idm?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Carson, Washington
Bad Idm?
Okay guys I need some help again or maybe just some reassurance. Yesterday I drove my daughter to practice and when we went to leave the truck wouldn't fire up. It ran great on the way there but when I went to fire her up it would just crank. I checked the oil levels and they were fine. I checked the plugs at the valve covers and they were fine. The tach moves while cranking the engine. Could the IDM be bad? Is there a way to check without getting a new one? There is fuel in the fuel bowl and the batteries are good.
I did change the waterpump on Friday but I don't think that has anything to do with it. I drove the truck a few times since then and it was fine until yesterday. I guess I'm thinking the IDM went bad but want to be pretty sure before I buy one.
Thanks,
Mark
I did change the waterpump on Friday but I don't think that has anything to do with it. I drove the truck a few times since then and it was fine until yesterday. I guess I'm thinking the IDM went bad but want to be pretty sure before I buy one.
Thanks,
Mark
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2007
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First I would pull the codes to see if anything pops up, but after that there are a few things I would check before jumping all the way to a new IDM. I would try the CPS sensor. They are known for going out just like that, but first the codes and have you done any work to the truck recently?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
There are more things it could be than an IDM. could be IPR o-rings if it starts once it cools down. Could be the fuel heater blew a fuse. could be lots of things. I would start by checking all the fuses under hood and under dash. Also the truck should be cold by now. try to start it.
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Senior User
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From: Carson, Washington
Thanks for the help guys. I checked the fuses and found no blown ones. Also, the truck has sat all night and still won't start. I changed the cps about a year ago because I was having a stalling issue when I towed a trailer. I didn't think that was the problem but I changed it anyway. The problem went away but I worked on some other things at the same time so I don't know if the cps fixed the problem. I guess I could put the old one back in to see if it will start.
So what I have right now is it won't start hot or cold. The tach moves when trying to crank it over and all the fluid levels are fine. I agree it could be something other than the IDM but the things I know to check look good except I haven't checked the cps yet. That will be the next thing I will check.
Thanks
I'll keep you posted.
So what I have right now is it won't start hot or cold. The tach moves when trying to crank it over and all the fluid levels are fine. I agree it could be something other than the IDM but the things I know to check look good except I haven't checked the cps yet. That will be the next thing I will check.
Thanks
I'll keep you posted.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Ellensburg, Washington
Sounds like my ordeal last week. My no start issue was because of bad injector o-rings. I would pull the VC's and have someone crank the truck over, if you have bad o-rings you'll see oil leaking past the injector. Check both sides.
Cowboy Steve
Cowboy Steve
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From: Carson, Washington
Okay here is the latest. I put the battery charger on it just for the heck of it. I can get it to start but still have to crank for 3-5 seconds. It turns over the same without the charger on it but won't start without. I'll check the voltages on the batteries again to see what they are at. Maybe a bad cable? I started it and let it run for about 5 minutes then shut it off then restarted it again and let it run then unplugged the charger then it wouldn't start. Then I plugged the charger back in and it won't start again. I'll check the batteries again and try again.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Ellensburg, Washington
Your batts are probably just drained from the prolonged crankin. I still think it might be your best bet tp pull your valve covers and take a peek at whats goin on under there. Really sounds like my o-ring issue....
Cowboy Steve
Cowboy Steve
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Originally Posted by powerstroked162
Your batts are probably just drained from the prolonged crankin. I still think it might be your best bet tp pull your valve covers and take a peek at whats goin on under there. Really sounds like my o-ring issue....
Cowboy Steve
Cowboy Steve
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Senior User
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From: Carson, Washington
Okay, today I checked the batteries and they were both at 12.7VDC. I started the truck up without the charger and drove it for about five miles and then shut it off when I got home. When I restarted it it cranked for a long period of time. About 5-10 seconds before it would fire up. I'm not saying the o-rings aren't the problem but I just put new injectors in it last fall. Could they really be going bad already? I was thinking maybe the starter or the cables? What do you think? Thanks for your help guys. I won't be able to pull the valve covers off until this weekend so I am trying to eliminate the possibilities that I can until then.
Thanks
Thanks
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Carson, Washington
Went out and tried starting it today and started right up. I didn't run it until it got up to temp but think it will probably be back to the same hard starting situation.
I was trying to think of anything during the waterpump change that could have caused this and can't really think of anything. The only thing that was different was the thermostat. My old one had the long stem and the new one they gave me had the short regular looking stem. This couldn't have anything to do with it could it?
Thanks
I was trying to think of anything during the waterpump change that could have caused this and can't really think of anything. The only thing that was different was the thermostat. My old one had the long stem and the new one they gave me had the short regular looking stem. This couldn't have anything to do with it could it?
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
No the thermostat wouldn't cause any of the issues your having but you shoulddouble check to make sure the stat you have matches the style water pump you have. Long stem or short stem.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Well the part number and application is the best way. Where did you buy the WP? if its for a 94 or 95 then it should take the shorty. unless somebody switched to the long stem WP and thermostat which is possible. Post up your part numbers that you install and where you got them we should be able to figure it out from there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Originally Posted by MPlayer
Okay, today I checked the batteries and they were both at 12.7VDC. I started the truck up without the charger and drove it for about five miles and then shut it off when I got home. When I restarted it it cranked for a long period of time. About 5-10 seconds before it would fire up. I'm not saying the o-rings aren't the problem but I just put new injectors in it last fall. Could they really be going bad already? I was thinking maybe the starter or the cables? What do you think? Thanks for your help guys. I won't be able to pull the valve covers off until this weekend so I am trying to eliminate the possibilities that I can until then.
Thanks
Thanks