well, inevitably, my stock (or so i think it is) rated clutch slips like a 90 year old on an ice patch when i bury my foot in the throttle. needless to say, new clutch is coming soon, maybe in the spring, maybe this fall, not sure yet. im really leaning towards the valair clutch. they have a spring ceramic/ceramic for under 650 dollars that is said to hold 600hp/1100lbft. sound like a good idea? my only worry is the ceramic beating the crap out of my flywheel. dare i venture for the feramic/feramic 500hp/1000lbft, or will that be too little with the 230cc hybrids im planning on building? im really liking valairs prices, so thats why i plan on going with them. any input? good or bad appreciated.

-Brandon

 

I would go ceramic. most medium and heavy duty clutchs are ceramic and they don't wear the flywheel any more than standard materials. I am not us on the aftermarket clutches but with your plans I would not get anything lower rated than 500hp. you might not quite be there but I like to over build. I think the 600 valair would be a good chioce from what you say about it.

 

FF, I love my ceramic/feramic It's a little grabby backing up, but it's worth the holding power. As far as the price......Call Dan and tell him Cody from Death Row Diesel sent ya and I bet you'll like the price a whole lot better. Dan is a great guy to deal with and his clutches kick azz.

 

thank you much, guys. i think ill be calling in my order this or next week. god, im going through money like water lately! ive never done a clutch before, is it a pretty straight foward swap?? ive already got a smfw, do i need that resurfaced or anything? any specialty tools? any writeups?!?!?lol, thanks again.

-Brandon

 

Your clutch will be even cheaper without having to buy the flywheel. Yes, have the flywheel resurfaced without a doubt. Never do a clutch without doing that. Yes, a clutch is pretty straight forward.

Pull the driveshafts ****Make sure to mark them, so they go back in the same orientation, i.e. mark the yokes and shafts******
Pull all electrical connections
Pull the shifter
Pull the slave cylinder off (should just slide out of mount by hand, no bolts)
Pull the bell housing bolts and starter
Pull the inspection cover
Support the tranny and transfer case with a jack (preferably a tranny jack)
Pull the cross member
Wiggle the tranny and xfer case out
Pull the 6 or 8 pressure plate bolts (be ready cuz it's heavy)
Pull the flywheel bolts (be ready cuz it's REALLY HEAVY)
Pull the pilot bearing by either cutting it out with a chisel, or pack with grease and use the clutch setup tool and hammer to hydrolicly force it out.

Check the new pilot bearing to make sure it fits over the input shaft
Check the new clutch disk to make sure it fits over the input shaft
Clean the newly surfaced flywheel with brake clean
Clean new pressure plate with brake clean
Install new pilot bearing in crank
Install flywheel (having a buddy here makes it alot easier)
With the clutch install tool, install the clutch disk and presure plate (torque to spec)
*I don't know what that spec is!!!*
Stab the tranny back on
Install bell housing bolts
Install cross member
Install inspection cover
Install starter
Reconnect all electronics
Install driveshafts

Break in clutch for at least 500 miles, including city driving.

That should get you close. Good luck man, and seriously, tell Dan I sent you. He'll cut you a hell of a deal.

 

splendid, thank you much RD. where to i get this said clutch install tool? this seems like a good time to take care of my tranny drain and refill. the price shown on valairs site is with the new flywheel, or without? ill have to find a machine shop around here to resurface the flywheel, hopefully they can do the machining on the pistons of the injectors, too. im trying to get ya some rep points, but cant for the life of me figure out how to! thanks again.

-Brandon

 

The duck is the man. Great set of instructions. Reps to ya.

 

aha....figured it out, reps sent.

 

The clutch install tool will come with the clutch.

 

not to hijack a thread but I am hijacking it. I think my DMF is going south as I get an intermitant vibration that goes away if i push the clutch in, anyhow the truck clutch and flywheel just turned 150000miles on the way to Mexico today,
all that to ask
what is a good flywheel and clutch replacement I don't hot rod the truck and any towing I drive like an old man (I am) basicly stock 80HP edge and 6637 filter down pipe coming after i get my garage

 

I like the idea of ceramic clutch. I have a buddy that has one in his cummins thats been abused and its holding up fine.

My only question is on the cummins that ceramic clutch grabs. It's either in or out it seems. Is that a good sign?

 

I have a 96 two fitty with 85k and had my DMF crap out. Started out with a little subtle shake rattle and roll. Then it became showtime, started doing the mamba underneath my truck. Fortunatley I had it changed, and the clutch, slave cyllinder and some rotten brake lines before they left me stranded. Still have the original CPS though !!!! I would recommend anyone with higher mileage to consider replacing the flywheel, especially if you plan to keep the ol' pup around for a while. The flywheel and clutch kit was done at reputable 4 wheel performance shop. It was a "perfection" kit. A litlle noiser than the DMF but the way to go !

 

heli, valair also has normal clutches. Like I told FFemt, just call Dan Vallance, he's the Owner or VP of the company. He's a great guy to talk to, just tell him what you do with the truck and he will set you up no problem. And tell him I sent ya. That goes for everyone reading this thread. I send Dan alot of business and he ALWAYS treats us right.

 

well, just got off the phone with Dan from ValAir and my new clutch is on its way! very excited, plus Dan really took care of me. Ill keep you guys posted. Thanks again Cody!

-Brandon

 

Youve been deathified ffemt. haha how long will it be till you get those 230 hybrids? as im looking at getting the same set, and just curious how much they are gonna help.