Help on pitman arm, steering box
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Help on pitman arm, steering box
Doing my six inch lift, severely abused pitman arm in multiple ways to get it off and ended up cracking the aluminum piece at the top of the steering box. What else can i do to remove pitman arm? Cut,heat? What are my options for steering box? Whole new one, can i just get the innards? Where to buy? Thanks, Johan
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,948
Likes: 44
What are you tryuing to use to remove it? How in the heak did a pitman arm puller crack the top of the box?
The correct tool only contacts the pitmann arm itself (looks like half of a shell with a stud through the middle) and the sector shaft. Simply loosten the stud to allow ample comtact with the pitman arm, and runt the stud up with an impact, and it pulls the pitman arm right off without putting pressure on any other components.
These work much better than any other devices like three arm pullers that slip off and are a pain to use.
If you heat the arm you will transfer heat through the box, and ruin it, especially the seals, so it will need to be re-built anyway.
Do what you like now, sounds like you may need a replacement box anyway.
Finding the right tool for the job costs way less in the long run, and you get to add another cool tool to the tool box. Can't have too many tools.
The correct tool only contacts the pitmann arm itself (looks like half of a shell with a stud through the middle) and the sector shaft. Simply loosten the stud to allow ample comtact with the pitman arm, and runt the stud up with an impact, and it pulls the pitman arm right off without putting pressure on any other components.
These work much better than any other devices like three arm pullers that slip off and are a pain to use.
If you heat the arm you will transfer heat through the box, and ruin it, especially the seals, so it will need to be re-built anyway.
Do what you like now, sounds like you may need a replacement box anyway.
Finding the right tool for the job costs way less in the long run, and you get to add another cool tool to the tool box. Can't have too many tools.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, CA
I bought one of these from autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...pitman_arm.htm
After I spent 30 minutes without the right tool, I went to autozone, bought the tool and removed the arm in less than 2 minutes. The right tool makes a world of difference.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...pitman_arm.htm
After I spent 30 minutes without the right tool, I went to autozone, bought the tool and removed the arm in less than 2 minutes. The right tool makes a world of difference.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 855
Likes: 5
I can never seem to get the tool that GWIZRC mentions to fit the joint between the pitman arm and the box, only managed to get it to fit the out end of the pitman arm. After seeing other guys in my shop break boxes, and struggling with several on my own, I find the absolute easiest thing to do is drop the box from the truck altoghether. Once on the ground, you can flip it upside down and put a standard adjustable two or three jaw puller on it and wrench that aggravating arm off of there with no chance of damaging the box. It has three bolts that hold the box to the frame, the two lines on top, and one bolt where the input shaft is connected to the box. It can be removed with one person, but two are almost required to put it back, one to hold it up, and the other to put in the bolts on the side.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: The Great Plains
Originally Posted by GwizRC
Different size removers are available. When I removed the one from my 03' F350, I used the right tool, it took less than a couple of minutes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,948
Likes: 44
Snap-on CJ119B for me. Leaves the troubles of having to try to fit the arms of the puller between the pitman arm and box, and the hassle of removing the box.
My time and labor is still worth something, even if it is for my truck, so I can easily justify the expense of a quality tool that eliminates the need for all of that extra work.
Believe me the right tool pays for itself the first time something like this goes so right.
My time and labor is still worth something, even if it is for my truck, so I can easily justify the expense of a quality tool that eliminates the need for all of that extra work.
Believe me the right tool pays for itself the first time something like this goes so right.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Yeah, i couldnt find any pullers locally, so just was using a 5 ton 2 arm. Ended up snapping the bolt on it today.....after that i was really able to get some of the lift done though. Gonna head into town tomorrow and see if i cant find somcething else. I have the box out and tried using the pullers then to. I might just swing it into another shop. Can I aluminum weld the crack in the top piece of box (was using pry bar 
), or do i need a new part? I'd like to try the weld i think for now, and hopefully acquire a cheap new box. It looks like a new one from ford is around $700.Thanks guys
), or do i need a new part? I'd like to try the weld i think for now, and hopefully acquire a cheap new box. It looks like a new one from ford is around $700.Thanks guys
Last edited by Johan6966; Oct 21, 2007 at 10:09 PM.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
I wouldn't play around with that box by welding the upper bearing retainer (which is what I think it is). Either get another box from a junkyard and use it's retainer on your box, or just replace the box.
While a good weld will certainly hold - if you can get it lined up like originally - do you really want to take the chance of losing the steering?
While a good weld will certainly hold - if you can get it lined up like originally - do you really want to take the chance of losing the steering?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 855
Likes: 5
I am confused, how did you manage to break that particular piece? Were you pounding UP on the shaft and it broke? If that is the case, your box is most likely toast, as there is likely some internal stuff damaged too that just hasn't reared its head yet because of the broken top.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Most pitman arms have a taper on the mounting splines I use a good dead blow hammer and usaly one shot pops arm off,if not puller is only way.If you broke the top of the box and fluid came out is valve body and new is only way or rebuilt.Never trust a steering box that has had a severe enough shock to bust something,may look ok but recerculating ***** will be dinged or cracked and worm shaft will have damage as well.Have built many of them in my life are tuff but not indestrctable
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ken2600
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
27
Feb 17, 2025 03:10 PM
Road Warrior 95
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jul 5, 2014 09:55 AM