The throttle cable (or accelerator cable as some call it) on my '93 Ranger 3.0 has rusted thru and needs to be replaced. After looking at it, I'm wondering how to disconnet and remove it. Can anyone describe the procedure or have a link to directions? My Haynes manual doesn't even mention it. Right off the top, How does the cable end at the motor disconnect? Also, does anyone know a place where the part can be ordered? The local parts stores are all saying the part is discontinued. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Have you tried to find a cable at an auto recycler (aka, junk yard) or you Ford dealer?

 

Ford has discontinued and Direct Ford Genuine Auto Parts did a search of all dealers - none are available. Now I have to search junk yards. Called about 10 this morning - none have them.

 

Wow!! I'm sorry to hear that - not just for you, but for all of us who own (and love) older Rangers.

 

I just checked my LMC truck catalog and they don't list throttle cables (for any year, any engine) either.

 

I guess if I can figure out how to take the old cable off, I'll try to rig it some how.

 

Came off easy. Now if I can just find one.

 

You should be able to use almost any Ford cable that has the same 'end fittings'. The length of the cable must be long enough, and any extra you can make into a large curve, within reason.
The cable snaps onto a ball fitting by the throttle, and I think fits a leaded-slug into a slot on the pedal end. The bracket at the throttle has to match - sort of - for you to be able to substitute a different model year. Take it off and ask the Ford parts guys for something similar.

Worst case is to go to a cable & wire supplier with old parts in hand and request them to make up something similar to put into your old casing.
tom

 

Thanks for the info. Doesn't the length from the pedal to firewall inline mount have to be about the same distance?

 

I thought a little more, and figured out that you also had to have a similar to original mount on the firewall for the other end of the cable sheath. They don't have to be exactly the same, as long as you can mount on the throttle body and the firewall. The length is even more flexible, as you can make it form an arc in its path from the firewall.
The length from the pedal lever to the firewall mount has to be approximately the same as the original or you will not be able to idle down or get full travel depending on if it is too long or too short.
You *might* take a look at old Taurus/Sable or even Temp 3.0 cables as substitutes...
tom

 

Just got the most recent LMC truck catalog and they now list accelerator cables for several different Ranger engines. The only one not listed id for the 3.0. Maybe one of the others is long enough and could fit.

 

i am not sure if some of the Ford Ranger throttle cables are the same as the Mazda B3000. My 1994 vintage B3000 has a ball type linkage attachment and with the cable fitting over the ball. After my throttle cable wore out i could not find a replacement (OEM or aftermarket).

throttle arm illustration:
https://www.atlantamazdaparts.com/a/...C/EZM1661.html

pedal side:

https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...roduct=1924115

This cable:

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzU5WDEwMDA=/z/l7EAAOxyhXRTMa4~/$_57.JPG?set_id=880000500F

Ford Part YL2Z9A758BA

comes up and through a similar sort of metal bracket (#5):
https://parts.lakelandford.com/a/For...L/MD98360.html

After my research i ordered Ford part # YL2Z9A758BA.

This Ford throttle cable has the right ball socket clip type end for the Mazda B3000 on the throttle body end, and on the pedal end is identical to the original Mazda throttle cable. Length is 35.25" (around 31" from the throttle cable end to the grommet that goes through the firewall. The original cable was 27.75" in total length, and 23" to the firewall.

The firewall grommet on the Ford part is circular vs the Mazda part which is rectangular... so i needed to dremmel grind the circular portions of the portions of the grommet flat.

The hole in the firewall is almost a square (slightly rectangular) and was fine aside from a small tab on the upper side (1mm). Dremmeled away that tab and the grommet slid right through and clipped in, working just like stock.

On the throttle body side there is a mounting grommet and with plastic retaining tabs, and this slid into an indent the same metal bracket that mounted the original, but at a different spot.

Since the cable length is a bit longer you have to loop it away from other items in the engine compartment... but its not a big deal (just keep it away from the exhaust manifold).

Other than these slight modifications... this cable works like a charm.

As far as play goes on the pedal side goes... the spring takes up the slack just like it should. So no need for adjustments there.

i must say the truck drives like a completely different animal compared to my old stretched out and rusted Mazda cable. Amazing difference.

Hopefully this helps someone else in the future and it saves them the research.

 

Welcome to FTE.

Interesting "field expediency" & to read it seems to be working fine & your + 200K mile cold country/salty roads 94 "B 3000" 3.0L is on the road again!!!

Might be helpful to know if it has cruise control & is it manual or auto tranny?

 

The onset of winter and soon to come cold seems to kindle the fire of motivation so to speak - at least when it comes to getting this truck ready.

This is a 1994 Mazda B3000 4x4 extended cab manual transmission and no cruise control

Cable works great!

 

Ok that's good feedback info for the file.