I have really bad valve train rattle on my straight six. I want to know if I take my external filter mount and the spin-on filter adapter that comes with it and then mount the filter mount on the outlet side of oil cooler, with the inlet side accepting the incoming warm(160f oil) then discharging out the outlet side back into the engine. I figure that I could take a relatively short hose, with pressed fittings for ends and thread them in the spin on adapter for my external mount and that way, it should eliminate oil starvation on startup.

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Any thoughts anyone...

 

How high up is the ext filter mounted? If it's too high and it is siphoning the oil out it
has a lot of lag time before oil gets up to pressure in the motor!! Try a couple of the
big (32) bottles of marvel mystery oil, It may help clean up the valvetrain components
If it does make it stop you may have gotten lucky. I would either lower the filter mount so it's at the same height as stock or lower. You could install one of those pressurized pre oiler deals that injects oil into the motor before you start it so you
don't have a dry start!!

 

Have you tried a Motorcraft filter, and how bad is the valvetrain rattle? Does it sound like a diesel going down the road?

 

How high up is the ext filter mounted? If it's too high and it is siphoning the oil out it
has a lot of lag time before oil gets up to pressure in the motor!! Try a couple of the
big (32) bottles of marvel mystery oil, It may help clean up the valvetrain components
If it does make it stop you may have gotten lucky. I would either lower the filter mount so it's at the same height as stock or lower. You could install one of those pressurized pre oiler deals that injects oil into the motor before you start it so you
don't have a dry start!!

Hey, thanks for the reply Blue beast! I do not have the remote ext. filter mounted yet. Right now I only have my stock filter location. I have the Ford Racing 90 degree adapter to agle the filter downward to aid in removal of the filter and also to keep as much oil in the filter as possible. I have used Rislone and Marvel Mystery oil. Yet nothing makes any difference. Used from 15w-40 Rotella, 10w-30 valvoline, 5w-30, nothing makes any difference. I know that reallly only a complete valve disaasembly will do the trick. New lifters, valves, springs and guides. I only thought that maybe if I use my remote filter spin-on adapter, I could simply intersect the output line from my oil cooler to the input line of the remote filter mount, then use my return line to the block from the output side of the remote filter mount. If that helps let me know.

I wanted to use a simple short pressed fitting hose to make a circuit at the spin-oil fitler remote, just to prevent oil lag time at start-up..I hope that makes sense.

Let me know what you think Blue beast!
And thanks again for your suggestions!

 

Yes, Ford_six, it's all I ever use. It seems that during the winter months it's worst than in the warmer months, but it still does it 8-9 times out of 10 crank and start-ups..Used everything from Lucas(base and synthetic), Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil. It sounds like someone took several hammers, hooked them up and had them all hit head at one time..not the best description, but it sounds deafening for the first 2-4 seconds, sounds likes a diesel the next 10-15 mins.

All I know is that, it's been a great motor, I know that metallic noise doesn't help with internal parts, and I also have that lower end knock that I'm sure is coming from a main bearing, (verified this by a Ford Shop mechanic, 25+ years, retired and has his own shop, says I have at least 50K miles left in that main bearing..Rotella 15w-40 does help, but I changed my oil since it's getting even colder here and oil pressure on my after-market gauge took some time to register with the thicker oil.) Dealership says that I also have some piston slap, but i knew that.

Any other ideas except for a complete rebuild..LOL, Thanks again Ford_six and Blue beast for your help and time!

 

years ago i have replased the oil filter adapter for that problem, the oil is draining back into the pan after setting overnight. It has a check valve built into it. That was on newer engines, you would get that to, by the oil draining off of loose crank bearings overnight. heavier oil would help. we used to use straight 20W in the winter and 30W in the summer. Would be good to verify oil pressure first, could save a lots of expensive guess work. Good Luck.

 

That pre oiler deal will probably help the motor last a bit longer by ensuring the already worn bearings have oil instantly when you crank it, No more dry start up
with it. It could give you a few more miles more than any other doodad or slick
oil or additive. I would get the pre oiler and use an additive with ZDDP in it and
maybe use 2 bottles of it should protect the bearing surfaces if that do make
contact!! the new 15w40 ci oils have most of the zddp removed for emissions.
With the pre oiler it can be moved to your next motor or next vehicle it will
ensure the new motor lasts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Canto...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Hey thanks guys for your input! I bought the adapter for 2 reasons but didn't think that it sitting almost completely vertical would allow the oil to drain-back, since I completely fill-it up and then just spin it on, it makes everything a lot easier..maybe yours was setup differently Gary...? Not saying your wrong...just it doesn't make since looking at it...I do hold really good oil pressure when it running and when it's idling after hot in the cool weather now, it holds about 30 PSI.

I also have been looking at those pre-oilers Blue Beast....for quite some time...I just hestitate when I spend so much money on something and then you just don't know if it will do the trick either. I think I am gonna get one though, It sure as hell can't hurt anything... I also meant to say I do use a bottle of STP ZDDP additive with my oil, simply because I realized to late after I bought the truck, oil manufacturers were lowering the amount of ZDDP additive.

If I get the gizmo, I will let you guys know how everything works out! You guys have a Great Weekend and thanks again for the help and suggestions!

 

My 69 has a very similar knock noise, upper rpms and mid-vacuum cruise (about 8-13"), but not on decel or hard acceleration until the vacuum comes up over 8". Here's the kicker- The noise started when I replaced the head with one from an 80, and did a quick bearing and clean job. Pulled the pistons, the bores were .050" overworn, put it all back together, and my suspicious tick was the rattle of death. Drove it for a year, the noise never changed, I attributed it to piston slap.
Rebuilt the 80 block, it had about 45k on it. Hone to check for washboarding, berry brushed it, bores were 4.003-4.005, put all together and- The same knock, at the same time. Changing pushrods changed the noise a bit, but it didn't go away.
Both engines ran about 35psi max, 10psi idle hot. The current one has been going for about two years now. Two different oil pumps, all bearings have .002-.003" clearance, I don't know. I'll drive it till it blows I guess.
I'm thinking my rattle and yours might be similar, though-

 

Yeah, the rattle of death only happens @ startup, 9-10 times after it has sat for several hours. I am geting around by simply tricking the computer to go into flood mode @ startup, to circulate the oil before the engine turns over at 15-1800 rpms! (Anyone know how in the heck to change that!! on the newer, well the early '90's trucks?)

I am intrigued about this EGR restriction thing that some of these guys have mentioned in the Forum for our straigth 6's. It seems to get rid of the tick I also have, but I'm curious if maybe my fuel pressure reg. maybe going south as well, as get a surge and then drop in performance sometimes and well, heck, who knows, could also be the timing too... dunno know. Today I started the truck and I have lost part of my dash illumination over the speedo. only 0-30 and 55-80 are illuminated, so I get to yank the dash and replace yet another bulb. I'm pretty pissed that when I had the dealership replace the burnt out (I) parking brake light indicator bulb, that they didn't just replace all of the bulbs behind the dash....What a waste of my cash! but then it falls on me for not stating it, but nevertheless, it's done, so I guess I will also fix my fluxing oil gauge in the dash too!!! WOO-HOO!

 

Well, i haven't yet bought the pre-oiler yet, but I will hopefully one day! But I did a suggestion that blue_beast mentioned. I change my oil and wen to 10w-40 and I used (2) bottles of that stp additive. Noise quit! Well, only problem was that even after running it hard while the ambient temp. outside was 65, when it was 28 F outside, oil pressure took to long to register on my aftermarket gauge. I went ahead and drained that, went with 5w-30 dino, also noting there is still some oil left in the oil cooler and the filter. I'm showing maybe about 1/2 to 5/8's of a quart low, nothing harmful. I cranked this morning and it did fine, no noise, but after I ran it after changing it yesterday and letting it get to warm up temp, and then shutting it down, later that evening it did it just a little at startup, but nothing noticable beyond ear shot, like what it really sounded before I started this little experiment. So I think I am gonna wait for a few days, I have to work all weekend, and then I'm gonna see how it does, and I'll let you guys know. I really don't want to add anything else except for motor oil since it's only gonna get colder before long so I will surely see how everything is gonna run.