Sorry if this has been discussed recently. I haven't read through all the threads. I am going to attempt to replace my glow plugs tonight in my 2000 F-250. Any tips would be a huge help. This will be my first "repair" I've done on a "modern" truck. My only other mechanical work was done on a '72 Chevy, and, needless to say, this truck has a lot more under the hood. All I know about this repair is the valve covers have to be removed. What else am I to expect? What will need to be removed in order to remove the valve covers? Is there a specific brand or type of valve cover gasket that anyone recommends? What type of socket is needed to remove the glow plug? Do the wires disconnect easily? And, lastly, if I start the repair around 5:00pm this evening, will I make it to work by 6:00am tomorrow? (just kiddin')

Thanks

 

Alright, I just completed one side last night before it was too late to do the other side because I got a late start. This was my first time doing it and I wasn't sure what was involved until I dug in. It actually wasnt that bad.

Here as some basic instructions.

Make sure you have a 10mm socket that has a thin wall. I went to Oreilly's Auto Parts (for convenience) and bought the thinnest 10mm I coudl find. I recommend using a 1/4 drive. Also, a medicine dropper is necessary to get the oil out so it does not fall into the cylinder. I got them at CVS but WalMart or the like shoudl have them. Make sure its fairly small so it fits down in there.

1. Disconnect the batteries. (I do not know if this is necessary but I did it as a safety precaution.)
2. Remove the intercooler tubes and intake assembly. There is a clamp on each side of the intercooler tubes that unscrews (one by the turbo, one down by the radiator kind of hidden-for each side). I removed the intake assembly from the turbo back because I was also checking the turbo wheel and it allowed better access to the valve cover. (I do not know if removing these are necessary either but I do know it made my life a whole lot easier and it only takes 10 minutes)
3. Unbolt the bracket holding the relay that is bolted onto a bolt on the valve cover (13mm..I then unscrewed the bolt holding the relay together and separated it.
4. Disconnect the wiring harness on top of the valve cover that goes to the glow plugs.
5. Remove all of the valve cover bolts (13mm). There is like 10 of them I think. The one in the very back by the firewall is a PITA but it worked best for me with one of the ratchet adapters that bends with a long extension on it. Remove the valve cover.
6. Next, pull the wire off the top of the glow plug by just pulling up. Using a medicine dropper, extract as much of the oil out of the glow plug depression as you can. You do not want to dump all of the oil into the cylinder. You may find a different method of removing it but most needs to come out. I found that it is OK for a couple drops to go into the cylinder.
7. Using your thin-wall 10mm socket, remove each glowplug. Replace each as you go and reconnect the wire to the top of the glow plug. If the plug does not want to come out or go back in, do not force it. Back it out or back in and try again. You do not want to break it off or get it stuck but I had no problems and they all came out easy.
8. Reinstall the valve cover and put the intercooler tubes and intake back on and reconnect the batteries.


It is not hard to do, just time consuming. Just take your time and pay attention to what your doing. Just for reference to your time comment, I am a SLOW worker and it took me 3 hours to do one side compeltely, with disassembly, installation, and reassembly. Heck, that even included cleaning up all the tools. I also made a trip to Oreilly's for a ratchet adapter and to grab a bite to eat.

 

That sure does help. I would've torn into it with out the medicine dropper, the thin wall 10mm, or the flex extension and been SOL. I'm also glad to hear you thought it was fairly simple. That makes me feel a lot better.

What about the gaskets? Are they re-usable? And does the "thin wall" 10mm socket need to be a deep socket?

 

Do you knwo what bendable extension I am referring to?

I will post a link to one to help anybody who might be confused..


I believe I read that the gaskets are reusable as long as they are not visibly damaged. And I sure hope this is the case since mine are being reused .

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...keyword=swivel

Theres a link with a picture. I bought JUST the adapter to run a regular socket on the end not the sopisticated craftsman tools pictured with it all in one. It was something like $9.99 at Oreilly's for the 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 adapters. Or you can buy just the 1/2 for 6.99. Now you see why I bought all three .


And a medicine dropper just like this is perfect.

http://www.wildco.com/pctr/7905P40.jpg

 

Thanks again. I also just read that the gaskets are re-usable.

 

Good luck.


Where are you located?

 

I'm in Houston. I replaced the four on the left side on Wednesday night and I'm going to do the right side this weekend in the daylight. The truck is starting fine now, but I'm still going to replace all of them. The right side looks a little more involved due to more parts over the valve cover.

 

It's actually easier to get the right side off than the left, IMO.
You don't have that pesky wiring harness in the way.
The valve cover, once it's loose WILL COME OUT without removing the AC pump, but you have to move it around in just the right manner. I've pulled it several times over the 4 years I've owned my truck and never had to remove anything to get it out of there.
One thing that helps is to get a disposable 1/2" or 13mm wrench and grind it so that it is a little more slender, so that it will fit under the bracket that braces the dipstick tube. The nut that holds the bracket in place, often times, is tighter than the stud that is in the head and the whole assembly comes loose.
You have to brace it and remove the nut from the stud or you will twist the dipstick tube into a pretzel. Or be forced to cut the brace to avoid twisting the tube all up. Just grind that wrench so it will fit under the bracket, then remove the nut.
You'll need a swivel socket to easily gain access to some of the bottom and rear fasteners that hold the VC down.
Other than that, there are no "gotchas" to avoid.
Good luck.

 

I just did fuel cups, so i had the glow plugs out too, not that bad?

 

And the right side is by far more easy. when you do them be sure to blow out any oil that gets in the glowplug hole. there really shouldnt be all that much. also you my see if your injectors and rocker arms are tight and make sure your oil spitters are working ok.

 

How does this compair with a 2002. I know I am going to have to do this some day ?

 

I posted this on another thread, but, just in case you missed it, Autozone has the Motorcraft ZD11 glow plugs for $2.99 instead of $12.99. If you're going to replace all eight, this will save you $80 + tax. Find a store that has them; don't try to order online.

 

How does what compair? : )