Hey, I had this sweet scraping noise coming from my idler pulley, now it whistles when your in park and your idling and when you hit the gas it goes away. I put some white lithium grease as close as i could to the inside of the pulley, It goes away for a while and them comes back. So my question is, do i need to take the whole bracket off or can i get by with just taking off the pulley by that alan wrench?

 

You can get just the pulleys . Replace both well at it . Less than $20 a pc. Good luck
I have done it with out removal

 

On my Areostar, the idler pulley went bad, I replaced just the bearing in the idler, not the whole pulley. Cost was $8.30, done in about 30 mins.

 

Kool Cuz if i had to take off this braket i know i would be in for a fun time saying every bolt breaks on this stinkin thing lol. Thanks Guys

 

The king you need to buy some pb blaster and soak all your hardware now and then when you go to work on it spray it down a couple times a few days before you work on it the heat from the motor will help it work in if it's on the motor. You should be putting silver antisieze when you reassemble anything so at least you won't have the same problem if you have to remove it again. You might want to install a few zinc anodes on the frame and a couple on the body too especially the tailgate!! You may have some heavy electrolysis happening in that truck, How is your coolant system condition? There is a zinc anode that goes into the coolant, The company that makes
The trans coolers and stuff makes them too I forget their name right now!! That crc freeze off works pretty good advance just had it on sale for$1.95 down here it cools
the bolt to help shrink it so the penetrating oil get in. I drive my truck through brackish water to launch my boat, I painted my gas tank, frame, oil pan and floor
board with cold galvanizing paint. I have a two zinc anodes on the front of the frame
two on the rear end, one on the back of the body and one one the front fender/rad support bolt. And a big 3 inch one on the motor. Just in case my truck is rusty when I got it it lived it's whole life on the beachside, It would probably be a lot worse if I didn't put the anodes on it when I got it!! Just get the ones that are 1 inch diameter
and have a bolt through them, If they get corroded you have to scrape them so they are shiny again. The third one down is the style I have and recommend If you drive on salted roads they will definately help, even if you don't they will cut down rust and corrosion!! http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/c...=Zinc%20Anodes

 

Forgot to say that when I pulled the ldler pulley bolt, it was lefthanded on the Areo.

 

Yea i started spraying everything. My cooling system is junk to me. I am extremely self conscious due to that thermostat housing. I havent took it on a long run yet to see if that is ok. But to me it looks like the top of the water pump and timing chain cover is moist. I need to get some more funds and im going to end up taking the intake off and replacing. Im very **** about the way my stuff runs. I absolutly hate rigging stuff or knowing it could fail. I love silver antisieze and i use it religiously. Please tell me more about those zink anodes, Are they pretty much ground straps? Im curious about what this is. Sorry to change the subject but il be replacing my pulley soon.

 

On those pulleys if you knock the bearings out and on the inboard seals remove them
and clean out the old grease if any, Repack with grease and put one bearing in opened
side facing in and put some grease in there then put the other bearing in with the now
open side facing in and they will probably last another 50,000 miles. I don't believe in sealed bearings even the ones with the metal seals can be removed, cleaned, regreased and resealed!! If they were sealed up they would be really hard to turn, so
there is always room for dirt and water to get inside. Those Zinc anodes for the
cooling are from flex a lite (summit rocks)http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku That's the link to them
You could probably hang a anode (from that other link above) from the radiator cap and end up with same results. On your frame clean the area around an existing hole
you need metal to zinc contact, Use either the 3rd or 5th anode down and attach with
a stainless nut and bolt be sure to use antisieze on the threads, Every now and then
you will need to remove it and scrape the anode so it is shiny again for it to do it's
job. What it does is whenever you have dissimilar metals in contact there is a kind of
a battery effect taking place and the lower metal loses some of it's electrons to the
more noble metal, You can do an experiment with the change in your pocket, Stack
some pennys and nickels do penny,nickel,penny,nickel, Put your multimeter(set to millivolt) positive on one end and the negative on the other, put plain water on the stack and check the voltage, now put some salt water on it, then try lemon juice mess
around with different liquids and see what kind of voltage you can get, the more change you add to the stack the more amperage you will get. Well enough mister wizard, The same thing is happening in your truck, If you left those coins stacked and
with a bit of moisture eventuallyt the pennys would be corroded to almost nothing. With the aluminum in your truck being the weaker metal that is why your intake is having problems it is getting eaten up, The good thing about aluminum is that it form
corundum on it which is that ugly corroded look people don't happen to like but it is actually as strong as sapphire(technically it is) It protects the aluminum better than
anything, Anodizing is basically forcing corundum to form and making it pretty. Cleaning
it off is the worst thing to do it just loses more metal until another layer is formed. Even between steels the zinc can slow the rusting if the electrons are not balanced
the weaker metal will corrode. Just the humidity in the air is enough to cause it add
in rain, power washing (forces water into tight places not the best thing to do for your truck) forget about salt on the roads in winter since most people don't wash their
cars as much as you should in the winter that salt really sets up a battery(remember the coins) If you have a pontoon boat and you leave it in the water get a big 20
pound zinc chunk and drill a hole through it and with a big clamp put it onto the frame
for the toons it will help it last, also put those screw together(3rd down) zinc anodes
on the frame underneath even if you don't leave it in the water. You could take a
multimeter on the water with you and measure the voltage difference between your
motor and the pontoon or frame. All outboards have mutiple anodes on them if not they almost wouldn't make it out of warranty before problems cropped up. You must keep the anodes scraped or you might as well not even add them!! If your cooling system is bad get that one anode from summit for the drain petcock and put a couple of more on your new intake when you bolt it down(get that 5th one cut it how you need it and drill a hole in it, A copper, brass and aluminum, steel all mixed in the coolant(electrolyte) is a nice battery!! Whoa carpal tunnel!!