Is this normal?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
Is this normal?
I have a new motor about 1600 miles. I bought a new radiator (dual core instead of the factory single core) new thermostat (195deg, same as the old one I replaced) new temp sending unit and new radiator cap. The temp reading from factory guage used to read on the "N" where it said "Normal" it now reads in the middle on the "R". Some said it could just be the new sending unit reading differently. With the old cooling system when the engine would get hot it would put coolant into the plastic overflow tank and then suck it back into the radiator when the engine cooled. Now the radiator puts coolant into the overflow but never sucks it back in. So when I open my radiator cap to check the coolant level (when the engine has set over night) there is still pressure in the system and alot of coolant goes into the overflow. Everytime I do this I have to drain the overflow and put the coolant back into the radiator manually. Tell me something is wrong. Could this be the reason my truck seems to be running hotter than normal?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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Maybe you will be lucky and they might want to save there rep. and fix it right under warranty
Usually when you have symptoms like this it is a head gasket gone bad or a cracked head. A good shop can test it for you or you try your self. Some times you can find one with a leak down gauge, or a radiator presser tester or a block tester. But you need to know what to look for with each method
Usually when you have symptoms like this it is a head gasket gone bad or a cracked head. A good shop can test it for you or you try your self. Some times you can find one with a leak down gauge, or a radiator presser tester or a block tester. But you need to know what to look for with each method
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
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I'm running the factory fan and shroud. The clutch for the fan only has a few thousand miles on it. As for the thermostat, when i first start the engine the temp gauage goes up and then you can tell the thermo opens cause the temp goes back down. But once it reaches oper temp again it stays in the middle. I would sure hope its not a head or head gasket. They're new heads too.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
check your plugs, if there is a head gasket leak you would see some signs on the plugs. a new motor will also run hotter till its broken in completely. you might have air in the system still or possibly your rad cap is to strong? you can also install a 3 or 4 cor radiator as well, thats what i have done.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Double check all your hoses for leaks. If the water isn't being drawn back it may be because it's losing the vacum. What kind of fan clutch did you put on it? thermo or
just a constant slip unit? If you have the old temp sender pop it back in and see if it reads like it used to. And swap back in the old rad cap the new one could have a leaky seal and let the coolant out fine but not draw it back.
just a constant slip unit? If you have the old temp sender pop it back in and see if it reads like it used to. And swap back in the old rad cap the new one could have a leaky seal and let the coolant out fine but not draw it back.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
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If there was air in the system wouldnt it bleed itself out through the overflow? Also, what do i look for on the plugs to see if I have a bad head gasket. I will try the old cap. Thanks for the help guys.
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Posting Guru
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Have you retorque the heads? I don't believe in no retorque gaskets the price of valve
cover gaskets Is a lot cheaper than letting the heads leak into a cylinder and
hydrolocking one cylinder and bending a conrod!! Don't overtorque it just put it on there and check it meets the rating one really loose and two 10# off will cause a leak
that will ruin an engine. You will know if there is evidence of water on a plug start the
truck idle for 3 minutes pull the plugs, be sure to mark them, inspect them for any signs of water or a moist appearance, reinstall in same cylinder go for a ride and get
to temp and do a couple of high speed passes 3000rpm at least bring it home, rev to
3000 rpm for 20 seconds let it drop and turn it off, Pull the plugs out and check for a
wet one again!! http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp
Put this in your favorite it is a good chart.
You could park on a hill with the filler neck at the highest point run the motor with the cap off until it seem like the level has dropped, shut off, then refill, The idea is to have the air rise to the highest point.
cover gaskets Is a lot cheaper than letting the heads leak into a cylinder and
hydrolocking one cylinder and bending a conrod!! Don't overtorque it just put it on there and check it meets the rating one really loose and two 10# off will cause a leak
that will ruin an engine. You will know if there is evidence of water on a plug start the
truck idle for 3 minutes pull the plugs, be sure to mark them, inspect them for any signs of water or a moist appearance, reinstall in same cylinder go for a ride and get
to temp and do a couple of high speed passes 3000rpm at least bring it home, rev to
3000 rpm for 20 seconds let it drop and turn it off, Pull the plugs out and check for a
wet one again!! http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp
Put this in your favorite it is a good chart.
You could park on a hill with the filler neck at the highest point run the motor with the cap off until it seem like the level has dropped, shut off, then refill, The idea is to have the air rise to the highest point.
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