90 7.3 head removal
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Southern Delaware
90 7.3 head removal
Is it possible to remove the intake from the engine without taking off the IP? It looks like the intake runners clear the pump after removal of a sensor(TPS?). I just want to remove the driver side head, just to perform an analysis. I want to see if the miss and chugging noise is either a head gasket or valve/guide? If I can take off the intake without the IP, then it will save me alot of time both on removal and install. I would say"just do it right" but I want to see whats wrong with the truck to determine if its worth the investment and cash is pretty tight too. I can buy just the drive side head gasket and intake($80). I already have new valve cover gaskets. So, hopefully I can get away with remving the head with the exhaust manifold bolted on. If not Ill splurge and buy exhaust gaskets. Lemme know whatcha tink. thanks...
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: south jersey
im not sure about removing the intake with out pulling the ip. but the head it self is not very easy to remove with the engine in the truck the are very heavy. also if it does need head gaskets i would both no sense doing the job twice. What makes you think that you need head gaskets?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
The valley pan and intake gasket are integral, and the front of the valley pan cannot be removed easily with the IP still in place, reinstalling it properly will be that much more difficult, since the front and rear of the pan is sealed with RTV sealler.
removing the IP is not that bad, and the injector lines come with it fairly easy. If your conserned about messing up the timing, don't be, if you leave the IP drive gear housing in place, the gear cannot be lifted enough to skip any teath, and the IP can only be installed one way on the gear.
I also agree that you should do both sides, I'm not even sure if its possible to get a single head gasket.
removing the IP is not that bad, and the injector lines come with it fairly easy. If your conserned about messing up the timing, don't be, if you leave the IP drive gear housing in place, the gear cannot be lifted enough to skip any teath, and the IP can only be installed one way on the gear.
I also agree that you should do both sides, I'm not even sure if its possible to get a single head gasket.
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From: Southern Delaware
yes you can get just one-$30.
The PO ran it hot. Now it runs rough, smokes(blue/greyish-smells like fuel)... I took the valve cover off and discovered a bent/broken pushrod...furthest one back on driver side. I replaced the pushrod and it didnt really effect anything. I had the v/c off and the valves seem to operate like all the other valves on that side. I cracked the injectors on those two cylinders(furtherest two) and it didnt effect anything. I swapped injectors and the miss didnt follow the injectors. THere is also a chugging noise in the exhaust. It sounds like a choo-choo train!
The PO ran it hot. Now it runs rough, smokes(blue/greyish-smells like fuel)... I took the valve cover off and discovered a bent/broken pushrod...furthest one back on driver side. I replaced the pushrod and it didnt really effect anything. I had the v/c off and the valves seem to operate like all the other valves on that side. I cracked the injectors on those two cylinders(furtherest two) and it didnt effect anything. I swapped injectors and the miss didnt follow the injectors. THere is also a chugging noise in the exhaust. It sounds like a choo-choo train!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I would remove the IP just to get it out of the way.
The injection lines are expensive, the head is heavy.
No sense taking chances of a smashed injection line or three.
Valley pan gasket is about 80 dollars, and you can buy single head gaskets.
I just posted the IP removal directions in another post by PetePeterson.
Here is the link.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...t-7-3-idi.html
The injection lines are expensive, the head is heavy.
No sense taking chances of a smashed injection line or three.
Valley pan gasket is about 80 dollars, and you can buy single head gaskets.
I just posted the IP removal directions in another post by PetePeterson.
Here is the link.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...t-7-3-idi.html
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From: Southern Delaware
ok, just got the head off. it wasnt the gasket..... But there is a nice little imprint of the valve in the piston(hence the bent pushrod).....
Holy cannoli..that head is heavy...But I had to remove it wit da exhaust manifold attached, as i couldnt get tha last bolt out....But I managed by myself(nothin a few asprin cant fix).....
the head gasket is in great shape....Im thinkin that the po over-revved the engine and bent a couple valves, but I wont kno until I take out the valves....
I just called the jy and they can pull a head for 1 bill...so maybe that can solve da prob... but now I can access the gp's(swelled)...oh yea the intake gasket looks to be in great shape, im thinkin someone had it off before.....
Holy cannoli..that head is heavy...But I had to remove it wit da exhaust manifold attached, as i couldnt get tha last bolt out....But I managed by myself(nothin a few asprin cant fix).....
the head gasket is in great shape....Im thinkin that the po over-revved the engine and bent a couple valves, but I wont kno until I take out the valves....
I just called the jy and they can pull a head for 1 bill...so maybe that can solve da prob... but now I can access the gp's(swelled)...oh yea the intake gasket looks to be in great shape, im thinkin someone had it off before.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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Senior User
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From: Southern Delaware
yea, that piece was removed before I ran it last. I took out the pushrod on the intake and used a magnet and fished around for a while..but I got it. I didnt run the engine with the piece in there.
The dude at the machine shop says the seal made the valve stick open and then the rocker came down and smacked the valve into the piston, breaking the pushrod. The valve seals are really crappy in this engine. The seal on another valve was stuck almost all the way at the top of the valve spring....shouldnt they remain attached to the guide to prevent too much oil from goin into the cylinder?
the valve was gouged pretty badly from the guide, so it needs to be replaced.Now I have to check the guide to see if it ok. Hopefully I can put new seals in it, replace the valve and call it good.
I tried to remove the other valves and they would get jammed up, not allowing the spring to compress...I had to put the compressor on, compress really hard, and then smack the spring with a screwdriver in order for it to compress, allowing me to remove the keepers......Crazy.
The dude at the machine shop says the seal made the valve stick open and then the rocker came down and smacked the valve into the piston, breaking the pushrod. The valve seals are really crappy in this engine. The seal on another valve was stuck almost all the way at the top of the valve spring....shouldnt they remain attached to the guide to prevent too much oil from goin into the cylinder?
the valve was gouged pretty badly from the guide, so it needs to be replaced.Now I have to check the guide to see if it ok. Hopefully I can put new seals in it, replace the valve and call it good.
I tried to remove the other valves and they would get jammed up, not allowing the spring to compress...I had to put the compressor on, compress really hard, and then smack the spring with a screwdriver in order for it to compress, allowing me to remove the keepers......Crazy.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Southern Delaware
I just may do that....or I might beer bribe a buddy for some assistance. The hoist seems to be a good idea but I dont know if I can maneuver the head around b/c of the exhaust manifold makes it tricky....but I will figure something out. Are the alignment dowels supposed to be in the head or block? These are on the head, but other engines Ive done are in the block. It would be easier if it was on the block, tho..
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
They should be in the block before you reinstall the head gasket.
The dowels keep the gasket where it needs to be.
You can work them out with a set of pliers, just be gentle.
Also make sure there is no oil at all on both the head and the block deck.
I wipe both down with acetone right before assembly.
The dowels keep the gasket where it needs to be.
You can work them out with a set of pliers, just be gentle.
Also make sure there is no oil at all on both the head and the block deck.
I wipe both down with acetone right before assembly.
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Senior User
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From: Southern Delaware
ok, does anyone have a p/n for the alignment dowels?. One popped out like cake, but the other got effed up when I tried taking it out. It was stuck in there good and they are of a thin material. please let me kno where I can find a replacement...thanks.