In tank Mods ?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: St. Louis, Mo.
In tank Mods ?
Looking at the ITP pre-pump kit. Do I have to use the aux. filter? How has this worked out for you all? Also gonna do the fill tube cut at the same time.Thanks
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Originally Posted by guitarpicr
Looking at the ITP pre-pump kit. Do I have to use the aux. filter? How has this worked out for you all? Also gonna do the fill tube cut at the same time.Thanks
I also put a Carter helper fuel pump, on mine.
Last edited by arjr111; Oct 15, 2007 at 11:35 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
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From: North of Greenville
The thingy in the tank that the ITP kit gets rid of is really just a mixing chamber, and is not a filter. The screen at teh bottom of the pickup tube gets left in place as well.
The New Baldwin filter in the kit is an extra protection for your fuel pump, but there will be a slight pressure drop across this filter, which is why arjr111, myself, strokin (Kris), and others have installed the Carter lift pump - insurance to help overcome the Bladwin filter pressure drop. I have my install pics in my gallery.
On your "fill tube cut", that won't get you as much as will the "vent tube cut". The vent tube is the one that lets the foaming problem delay your fill-up routines. That said, you might as well cut both tubes while you're in the tank.
The New Baldwin filter in the kit is an extra protection for your fuel pump, but there will be a slight pressure drop across this filter, which is why arjr111, myself, strokin (Kris), and others have installed the Carter lift pump - insurance to help overcome the Bladwin filter pressure drop. I have my install pics in my gallery.
On your "fill tube cut", that won't get you as much as will the "vent tube cut". The vent tube is the one that lets the foaming problem delay your fill-up routines. That said, you might as well cut both tubes while you're in the tank.
Last edited by F250_; Oct 15, 2007 at 11:40 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
I honestly haven't measured it, but I have seen where the pump pulls about 1-2" vacuum between the filter discharge and the pump suction, and when it gets to around 10" it's time to change it.
I don't have a vacuum gauge on mine, but am considering it.
Concerning valves for ease of change, not really necessary, but you can certainly get them if you choose. Make sure that the valves you choose are diesel and/or biodiesel compatible with either teflon or viton seals/seats.
The valves obviously become two more leak potentials. When I change mine, I use two small "quick clamps" from the hardware store to crimp the hose in and out... works like a charm and provides no additional potential locations for leaks.
I don't have a vacuum gauge on mine, but am considering it.
Concerning valves for ease of change, not really necessary, but you can certainly get them if you choose. Make sure that the valves you choose are diesel and/or biodiesel compatible with either teflon or viton seals/seats.
The valves obviously become two more leak potentials. When I change mine, I use two small "quick clamps" from the hardware store to crimp the hose in and out... works like a charm and provides no additional potential locations for leaks.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: St. Louis, Mo.
One more ? - How often do you have to change this Baldwin filter? And Im guessing this will keep the stock filter cleaner longer?
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
Excellent question with a vague answer.... you'll have to change it out whenever it gets plugged, which is a function of your fuel source(s). And believe me, I'm NOT trying to be a jerk when I say that... it really depends.
I installed mine in April, and just changed it two weeks ago due to converting over to a 20% blend of biodiesel, which "cleaned out" my tank and fuel system to the point that my filters were nearly plugged (within a week of starting the bioD). Otherwise, I've heard about folks just deciding to change both filters after a year, and then only changing the "engine-mounted" filter every other Baldwin change after that.
You might even want to try running two years on the Baldwin filter, depending on how much mileage you put on her. I'm averaging close to 2,000 miles per month, myself, which means that my 5 months was roughly 10,000 miles worth of fuel flow.
And, as you have probably already deduced, the Baldwin does make the stock filter last longer.
I installed mine in April, and just changed it two weeks ago due to converting over to a 20% blend of biodiesel, which "cleaned out" my tank and fuel system to the point that my filters were nearly plugged (within a week of starting the bioD). Otherwise, I've heard about folks just deciding to change both filters after a year, and then only changing the "engine-mounted" filter every other Baldwin change after that.
You might even want to try running two years on the Baldwin filter, depending on how much mileage you put on her. I'm averaging close to 2,000 miles per month, myself, which means that my 5 months was roughly 10,000 miles worth of fuel flow.
And, as you have probably already deduced, the Baldwin does make the stock filter last longer.
Last edited by F250_; Oct 15, 2007 at 01:54 PM.
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Okay, I cut both the vent tube and the fill tube, and I really regret cutting the fill tube. I have the cut, pretty much dead flat to the tank. It still take me 5 minutes after it clicks off to fill up due to foaming. IMO just cut the vent tube, dont touch the fill tube.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Pasadena, Maryland
Originally Posted by John311t
Okay, I cut both the vent tube and the fill tube, and I really regret cutting the fill tube. I have the cut, pretty much dead flat to the tank. It still take me 5 minutes after it clicks off to fill up due to foaming. IMO just cut the vent tube, dont touch the fill tube.
Thats the first time I've heard that....I'm going to do this soon myself.
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I think someone else also said something about not touching the fill tube also. The more i think about it, it will foam more if you have the fill tube cut level, it will foam when it gets close to the top. If you have the fill tube under diesel, but the vent tube not, then it would vent fine until you got to the top. Thats my theory on it anyways. Get a PVC cutter to do this job, makes it 10X easier. They are only 10$ at homedepot, and if you really wanted to you could just use it once and take it back. I kept mine and Ive used it quite a bit on other projects that i never would have thought to use it on.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Pasadena, Maryland
Originally Posted by John311t
I think someone else also said something about not touching the fill tube also. The more i think about it, it will foam more if you have the fill tube cut level, it will foam when it gets close to the top. If you have the fill tube under diesel, but the vent tube not, then it would vent fine until you got to the top. Thats my theory on it anyways. Get a PVC cutter to do this job, makes it 10X easier. They are only 10$ at homedepot, and if you really wanted to you could just use it once and take it back. I kept mine and Ive used it quite a bit on other projects that i never would have thought to use it on.
That makes perfect sense! Thanks for the tip!
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
I cut both tubes when I did mine back before summer.
Until I just changed over to B20, I have always filled up at the same station - same pump - pulled in from the same direction - EVERY time!! Now I'm taking the same approach, just a different station.
So? Here are my before and after observations.
Before doing the in-tanks... the pump would always click off with foam and it would take at least 5-10 more minutes of trickling to get in the last 5 gallons of diesel before the tank was completely full. Once the in-tanks were done (remember, both tubes cut), when the pump would click off, I could only trickle in about 0.75-1.0 gallon of diesel before it was almost spilling out the fill tube. Now, still with the in-tanks done, but at the bioD station, there is absolutely NO foam whatsoever, and when the slower pump kicks off, I can only squeeze in about 0.4-0.6 gallons fo B20.
Until I just changed over to B20, I have always filled up at the same station - same pump - pulled in from the same direction - EVERY time!! Now I'm taking the same approach, just a different station.
So? Here are my before and after observations.
Before doing the in-tanks... the pump would always click off with foam and it would take at least 5-10 more minutes of trickling to get in the last 5 gallons of diesel before the tank was completely full. Once the in-tanks were done (remember, both tubes cut), when the pump would click off, I could only trickle in about 0.75-1.0 gallon of diesel before it was almost spilling out the fill tube. Now, still with the in-tanks done, but at the bioD station, there is absolutely NO foam whatsoever, and when the slower pump kicks off, I can only squeeze in about 0.4-0.6 gallons fo B20.
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From: Central Alabama
bdrummonds and I did my in-tanks a couple of weeks ago, using the ITP kit and a Carter 4070 lift pump. Two weeks before that we did the CCK (Cross Connect Kit aka Cackle Cure Kit) and now after running a half of a tank of fuel thru it, its amazing how quiet the engine is! I also cut the vent and fill tubes, after the click of the pump I could only get less than a gallon in before it spilled out of the filler neck. I don't know why I waited so long.