I hope this isn't a dummy like question but where did ford hide the pcv vavle on a 2001 escape v6 3.0 ?

 

It is on top of the engine under the throttle body on the drivers side. Tough to reach. You'll need a long needle nose pliers or wrench to reach it. Moving the air filter housing and snorkle out of the way helps with access. Unscrews about 3/4 of a turn to the left, then pull it out. I simply stuck a 7/8 (I think it was, not positive) open end wrench way in there and twisted the valve as if the wrench were a screw driver...if you can picture that.

 

I couldnt find it and I had the top of the engine all part to change all the spark plugs and coil on plug sets..

 

Take a look at this picture with the filter housing and big intake tube removed ...

PCV Location

 

2004 Escape 6 cyl.
102,000 miles
2000 miles and 4 months out of expensive extended warranty.

While exiting the freeway my Escape revved out of control to 4500 RPMs. After having to almost stand up on the break. I threw it in neutral while almost rearending a tractor trailor. I put it in park then restarted and it revved right back to 4500 RPMs. The dealer charged me over $1200 to replace PCV valve and hoses and some gaskets. Here is the service report. Just wondering if this seems like a fare cost for repairs.

 

that really sucks, looks like they replaced every part that could possibly leak just to cover all the bases. I highly doubt all of these parts could have started leaking at the same time. They replaced more than just the pcv valve. That was a lot of labour cost to find and repair some leaks. Parts cost seems reasonable. Is that a Ford extended warranty ?, isn't there some claim you can put in on a major repair that occurs just out of warranty ?, my dealer did that with my alternator, I forget the name for the process , but dealers have discretion to do that one time for a customer, some type of goodwill repair.

 

Yes I tried. I pleaded my case about the warranty but all I got was a 15% discount. The service assistant said there was nothing he could do. I did see another post about the procedure to change plugs in a Ford Escape. I had this done a couple weeks before. It seemed like there's a direct correlation between what they had to disassemble to change the plugs and what happened. It's quite an ordeal to change the plugs on an Escape.... in fact over a $300 ordeal... Ford quoted me $425. I had the garage that's services my oil etc. do it. I called them from the Ford Dealership and asked if there could have been anything they did that may have contributed to the problem. They basically said absolutely not. Very frustrating..

 

I have read several times after changing spark plugs people have had intake leaks. It seems to be very common.

 

that might be possibility, particularly if the shop did not change the intake manifold gaskets like you are supposed to do on a spark plug change. If they re-used the manifold gaskets they could have leaked.

 

Well,
__one of many little grimlins you had.

Was your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE (IAC), was sticking.
Along with some bad manifold gasket leaks, no PVC vac signal.
That & mostlikely PVC was bad too.

In general the engine was facing a lack of some real TLC problems.
Unknown TLC mantaince, but mantaince neverless.

Your engine mostlikely "revved-high" in effort to stay running.
The computer was simply trying to work with what infomation it had.
If it recives wrong info, it will behave wrong.

So, when you make sure that all is well.
Then the engine will run well.

This is why I like to do every bit of mantaince/work that I can on my own autos.
So if anything go's wrong, it's my responsibility.

If should need work done that is beyond my tools/skill then, I go to a shop.
But this not a time to just pick the cheapist & go.

Signs of a good shop are;
. Happy customer returns/reviews
. Clean shop (shows good work ethics & is a safe shop)
. Happy employees
(If the person doing the work, isn't happy there. Just think how inattentive to the details he is. All it takes is a loose bolt.)

Hope this is of some help.

_& yes I have changed my own plugs, PVC, cleaned the intake, replaced any rotted hoses+vacum lines, & put new clamps on the hoses.
It took 12 hours of work over a 3 day span. (I'm a details guy. With kids."ugh")

03' Escape XLT, AWD.

My beliefs in auto care is;
Take care of your auto, & your auto will take care of you.
Scr*w your auto, & your auto will Scr*w you at the most inappropriate time.

Think of it as, the golden rule for auto care.

 

Just changed the PCV valve on my 02 Escape V6 and all I can say is...what a royal pain! It was worse than taking the intake manifold off to replace the rear plugs and ignition coils. I should have changed the PCV then, but that was a while back. The only tool that will fit in there is a long nose plier, and I mean long. Pulling will not do, you have to twist it counter-clockwise at lease 1/2 turn then pull. When installing the new one with the pliers, make sure you have a good grip on it, if it falls, it's not going to be easy retrieving it. Twist slightly until it goes in, then twist clock-wise until it locks into place, then replace hose. Not the easiest thing to do...

 

You were exiting, not entering the freeway? My first thought was the recall to modify the engine cover. This will cause the throttle to get stuck wide open and the rev limiter is about 4500rpm. This happened to me 3 times in one trip- never before that in 254,000 miles. I was able to get it unstuck each time and after removing the cover I could see where the parts were binding. I used my handy Dremel to grind away the bad spot and still haven't put the cover back on.