I am rebuilding a '67 T-Bird 390 to put in my '55 panel truck.
I have obtained an original 3x2 tri-power manifold and carbs, and a pair of original 406 cast iron headers. What should I do to the engine to make it "the hot setup" I am going to take it out to 60 over but what kind of cam should I run? Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Brian

 

Brian, if your wallet can take the hit, Crane offers some nice hydralic roller cams, the middle or smaller on might do well for you. One of my FEs has a Crane hydralic flat cam with 222* @ 050 intake and 234*@050 exhaust duration, the idle is noticeable but the brakes work fine and there is plenty of grunt at low speed. Don't make the common mistake of running too small a cam. Remember this is a big block. In my opinion FEs suffer from too small of exhaust valves, while your machinist is adding hardened seats for unleaded fuel, (additives are not enough)consider upgrading to the 1.65 ex valves from the 428CJ engine. An engine as old as yours may well need new ex valves anyway. The most important thing to remember when doing an FE is to fix the poor machining from the factory on the oiling system, ask us if you need help. DF

 

OK, what should I do with the oiling system? I don't have a large wallet. Can you spec a cam for me? Hydraulic or solid for the tappets?

DF, did my friend with the FT 391 Natural Gas engine get in touch with you?

Brian

 

Brian- haven't heard from the natural gas guy. As for cams the one I mentioned above is part # 343801 or 343802, depending on the year of block you have, some have thrust plate, some a thrust button. Lift is .548 going in annd .580 going out. This sometimes called a powermax H 278-2 cam. The oiling systems needs help because ford was stupid and sloppy when they machined these engines. The oil passage from the pump to the filter adapter is only drilled to 3/8 of an inch rather than the 7/16 shown on the prints. The design is okay but it was not executed very well. The first order of business is to fix this passage. With the block bare and upsidedown on the floor, Drill out the pump passage from 3/8 to 1/2, becarefull you are only going about a half inch deep here. Next put the block on its side and find the oil hole that feeds the filter adapter. It is 3/8 dia. if no one has messed with it. It needs to be 7/16 till it meets the 1/2 spot from the pump. Drilling this out is tricky because you must go in at an angle. I drill it in two steps, first with a special bit that has a 3/8 shank with 7/16 cutters, after the hloe is starter and enlarged to about 1/4 depth, I change to a regular drill bit. Drill very carefully here, if you go too far or crack the corner of the block your block is toast. The next set of problems is in the main saddle. The oil hole is not in line with the hole in the bearing. I mark the block with a felt tip with the bearing snapped in so I can see where to mark. Then take the bearing out and use a flame tip in a hand grinder to open up the hole to match your mark. Usually mains 1,2 and 4 need this but check them all. Then with the block right side up there is a restriction cast in the passage that feeds #5 main. Ford was trying to increase pressure to the lifters, a dumb idea. This restiction is why we see FEs with spun bearings on #5 main or #8 rod. Drill it out to match the rest of the passage. I thread the block at each point where ford used a press in plug. Lastly, there is a oil hole under one rocker stand on each head. I thread this for a pipe plug, being careful that it is in far enough for the rockerstand to sit flat, and drill the plug with an 080 hole to oil the rockers. Hope this all makes sense, I have done this to all my FEs and to a couple dozen customer engines and have never had a bearing failure or oil pressure complaint. DF

 

im starting the same custom. got a 55 panel from a friend and a doner car, 67 fairlane with a 390 auto, to pull parts. what info can you give? tinman1052@cs.com

 

I'm going to do this when I get my 360 apart. Could you please explain this:

"I drill it in two steps, first with a special bit that has a 3/8 shank with 7/16 cutters, after the hloe is starter and enlarged to about 1/4 depth, I change to a regular drill bit"

Why do you need this drill bit? Will a regular 7/16" bit work?

 

Cf350- I use the special stepped drill bit to start because you are going into the block at about a 45* angle, it is easy to get the hole crooked. If you give yourself plenty of time and go very carefully, the regular bit is fine. I bought the drill with the special nose, after doing a dozen blocks, to make the job easier and faster. I started with the regular style, and I suppose if I were only going to do one, I wouldn't want to spend 35$ for the special bit. DF