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please help me.I have a 352 and it's overheating. It's got a .040 overbore(which I don't think is a problem.) I have a new water pump, 190 degrees stat, fresh rebuild 700 miles ago, but I had this problem before the rebuild. I thought the rebuild would help but it hasn't. It's killin' me please help. The radiator is a 3core which i'm having it rodded out today. thanks
seems to me that your problem is probably in the radiator. rodding it out should fix the problem. or at least help. You can check the water pump by putting the radiator back in the truck(with the cap off) and letting the engine run untill the thermastat opens. once it opens you should see the water start to circulate in the radiator. if the water is flowing good then the pump is good. it should be a pretty strong flow with a new water pump.
Another slight possability is that the coolant passages in the engine could be stopped up or obstructed. But I doubt that that is the problem since you just rebuilt it. Especially if you took the block to a machine shop.
Post your results when you find out something. I am having the exact same problem with my FE. I think it is the radiator but after rebuilding the engine I don't have enough money to have the radiator rodded out.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 22-Jun-01 AT 02:23 PM (EST)[/font][p]It may not be a bad idea to toss in a 180 deg t-stat. It sure won't hurt anything. The 195 t-stat was used to make the newer engines run hotter for emission purposes. The 352 is an older engine so I would install a 180 t-stat if this were mine. Also the fresh re-build will tend run warmer anyway. Doing the radiator is a good idea also as Dr Ford suggested.
my 2.5 cents
thanks guys. I put the radiator back in. The shop said that it was about 30% clogged and this should do the trick. I hope so. I'll let you know later. It's about 90 some odd degrees today. This should be a good test. Right now I have a 195 stat, if it's still overheating I'll change to 180. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Thanks again.
When the engine was reassembled, was the head gaskets put on right. I found out the hard way that front means front. I had to turn over one of the gaskets to get the front mark forward. I have had good luck with running a 160 thermastat.
try to keep the engine operating around 200 degrees, this is because the cast iron walls I have read have their lowest either friction or wear at 235 degrees so the closer you get to that point the longer the bores will last.
guys thanks, the radiator did the trick. I don't know if any of you are familiar with so. cal. but, my test was, after reassembling the car, I drove from my home in Hollywood up the 101 to the valley(about 15 miles) on Saturday afternoon(it was about 95 degrees outside) at 2pm in TRAFFIC and when I reached my destination 45min. later after getting off the freeway and driving up a steep hill the car was just starting to look like it would overheat. I don't know what that says to you guys but I don't think my fe has ever ran that cool. It stayed steady until I got off the freeway then got kinda hot. Today I changed my radiator cap it's a 13lb. cap. how does that sound, about right I hope. You guys have been very helpful and I thank you. anymore suggestions are welcome such as whats a decent carb for everyday driving...
I love new things...even when they get old.
My truck's pic's
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I had a simuliar problem.I had just bought a new radatior and my truck started to running hot alot.so i dug around alittle ,and found a answer it wasn,t running real hot but I wanted it to run cooler.I bought an all alum.flex fan,it pushes more air at idle-slow speeds.like traffic jams and it,s great for towing. the faster the truck goes the more air is push in by the speed your going ,so the fan blades"lay down" flaten out to reduce fan drag which helps on horsepower some.I would suggest one if you want it to run cooler and perform better. I hope I ,ve helped it made a difference on my truck check out my moter at the web page at the top Brandon
Pachotrod, you live down here in sunny So. Cal? Put in a 160 t-stat and forget about it, especially if your engine has a tendency to run hot. This fall you can switch to a 180 for a little more heat if needed. I’ve seen excessive bore wear on engines with no thermostat but it’s mostly the outside bores on the outside walls, the inside bores keep each other warmer. I ran a 160 in a 5.0L for 200,000 miles, average bore wear was .005”. JMO
Are you running the fan shroud? I tried running mine with out and had problems.Try and get the fan located halfway inside shroud. I am also in so. ca. and I run a 160 themostat in the summer,with no problems.
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1972 Ford F-250 4x4 Dana 60/14 Bolt
4.88's, detroits, 40" Hawgs, rear PTO
winch, 390 c.i., N.P. 435, Dana 24
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I run a 160 year around and have a fiber glass flex fan.
One time when I was checking the radiator by running my hand across it with the engine running I discovered that there was a lot of air going around the edge of radiator and back into it. I assume it did this whenever it was not rolling. I put some duct tape between the edges of the radiator and radiator support stopping this recirculation. Helps hold the temperature down in traffic.
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