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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #1  
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Upgrade brakes?

I tow 10000# regularly, I just did rotors and calipers on all four corners this spring and my rotors are already warped. Have any suggestions on cost effective upgrades to drilled or slotted rotors?

Jason
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 11:48 AM
  #2  
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i run APRacing 6 piston calipers and slotted/drilled rotors from Stillen in southern california. you will need a min of 17" rims, 18" would be better.

cost effective?? but they do work well. much better than running over a car.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jhand124
I tow 10000# regularly, I just did rotors and calipers on all four corners this spring and my rotors are already warped. Have any suggestions on cost effective upgrades to drilled or slotted rotors?

Jason
What rotors and brake pads did you use?

With my OEM rotors, I suffered from a really bad warped feeling on the rotors. I upgraded to cryo treated Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads.

Other have reported good results using the ART rotors and Hawk pads.

EBC pads work well too.

As Monsta always says, there are three reasons why you get the "warped" feeling.

1. Material transfer.

2. Improper bed-in procedure.

3. Incorrect lugnut torque.

Check out this site for more info:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Stewart
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Oct 10, 2007 at 12:10 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 12:36 PM
  #4  
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clintbonnie
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
What rotors and brake pads did you use?



As Monsta always says, there are three reasons why you get the "warped" feeling.

1. Material transfer.

2. Improper bed-in procedure.

3. Incorrect lugnut torque.

Check out this site for more info:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Stewart
I agree with the 3 reasons above but I want to add a 4th reason. Stopping and holding the pedal down after the brakes are hot will also warp the rotors.. It transfer all of the heat into just a portion of the rotor.. It is better to stop abit short and creep forward. And of course riding on your brakes down a hill is not good..
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
What rotors and brake pads did you use?

With my OEM rotors, I suffered from a really bad warped feeling on the rotors. I upgraded to cryo treated Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads.

Other have reported good results using the ART rotors and Hawk pads.

EBC pads work well too.

As Monsta always says, there are three reasons why you get the "warped" feeling.

1. Material transfer.

2. Improper bed-in procedure.

3. Incorrect lugnut torque.

Check out this site for more info:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Stewart
OEM rotors pads and calipers
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #6  
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Storm
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Originally Posted by jhand124
OEM rotors pads and calipers
check your PM
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #7  
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From: Blairsville,Ga
Originally Posted by jhand124
OEM rotors pads and calipers
same here 124k miles original rotors,pads replaced 75k
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 03:47 PM
  #8  
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From: Circle Pines
I run an 8k lb trailer and I just went to powerslot cryo's with Hawk pads this past spring and they are in my opinion much much better than stock.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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Ever consider an exhaust brake? I've never upgraded from factory brakes, but I'd imagine the DIY EBPV re-wiring would be a lot cheaper, not to mention saving more money on brakes overtime.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 06:11 PM
  #10  
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BD Exhaust Brake

Let me know if you need information on an exhaust brakes or EBPV valves, they are some differences you should know before you make you decision if you decide to run an exhaust brake.

Dave
 
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