What is the prefered method for protecting the frame and undercarrage; Paint, Powdercoat or something like POR15?

What are the pluses and minuses of each?

I would think Powdercoat or POR15 would be more durable. I don't plan on being a 'pure-ist'.

John
NNY

 

John,
Not that this is an expert opinion by ANY stretch, but I'm doing my frame with rust bullet. Hope to be putting it on within the next week or two at the most. Requires three coats, two base and one black topcoat, but that seemed easier than POR.

 

IMO powdercoat hands down for durability.

 

One problem with powdercoat is touch ups, be sure everything is completely done and all the frame work/welding is all finished before powdercoating.

 

The rust inhibitor products (POR-15, Rust-Bullet, etc) are better suited to rusty metal (imagine that!), and bond chemically to the ferrous oxide (rust). If the frame is not rusty, and assuming that it is in bare metal, then you are better off spraying a coat of metal etching primer followed by a good coat or more of catalized acrylic enamel paint.

 

I used POR-15 on my frame and I'm very happy with it...so happy, in fact, that I will never use anything else. Yes, it's messy and if you get it on your skin it will have to wear off but you can save so much work by just wire brushing the frame instead of sand blasting it that it makes it worthwhile. I have had powdercoated lawn furniture that rusted after awhile so I am not impressed with powder coating.

 

I didn't have to but sand blasted my frame and then used Ospho similar to por15 but a little less expensive. Primed with self etching primer and painted with an acrylic enamel machinery & equipment paint.

 

problem with powdercoat is that there is no primer used before you powdercoat. so there is no rust protection if you get a chip and on a frame if you are going ot drive it at all, will get lots of rock and gravel chips all over the place. powdercoat is tough, but it will chip.

i owuld save powdercoating for the pieces that aren't exposed to rocks and such, like brackets, valve covers, air cleaners etc.

rgds
Mike

 

Had the frame on my 40 Sedan undercoated and put 40,000 miles on it over about 6 years. Looked as good when I sold it as it did when I put it together. I sprayed my F100 with Eastwood Chassis black primer and top coat. While assembling the chassis I chipped it a few times by dropping/hitting it with wrenches atc. I am currently working on my 40 coupe with a powdercoated frame and am not aware of chipping it during assembly. I will also powdercoat the next one. Joe

 

My powdercoater primes all bare metal pieces I bring him prior to applying the powder. There's no reason to leave steel bare, a good metal etching primer is just as beneficial under powder as it is under paint.

 

I used POR 15 on my sandblasted frame; have not subjected it to weather yet. I have had to due touch-ups since coating with POR; used a tremclad product over the POR, which immediately wrinkled; would not bond. so I will have to sand off the areas, and apply another coat of ??; not sure, looking into alternates that will adhere to POR.


Tom

 

If you are going to topcoat whatever you use, for durability you'd be hard pressed to beat the chip guard coatings many OEM manufacturers use on rocker panels and lower fenders. It leave a orange peel texture, but it is TOUGH! It is available from most automotive paint suppliers.

 

Eastwood also has a very good frame paint system. I have used it on off-road Jeep frames, axles and tie-rod setups. Very durable and you can get whatever finish you want.
Brad.

 

I agree. Powdercoated my 55 frame 4 yrs ago and am completely satisfied.

 

I had my '58 frame powdercoated a few yrs. ago and I have no complaints.
But I've decided to go the Por-15 route on my '60 this time around as the cost is a definate factor.
My question here is (since I've never used the Por-15) can this stuff be brushed on or do you have to spray it?