do you have to take the engine out to do the oiling mods
what all do you have to do to the engine what are the rewards
of the mods I have a 360 that I want to last a long time its in a 1969 F100 duals 3on the tree runs real gooid but want to keep it running good this is my brand new projet truck seeing as I
just bought it today its blue and white and it also has a 9in rear end with unknown gears not looked at the tag yet

Rodney
69 360FE V8 3on the tree looks real good bottoms of both fenders are rusty thats abought it

 

how many miles did the engine go before you had it rebuilt? did it have the oiling mods then? to do them now would require a total teardown or at least pulling the oil pan and pump and filter adapter to do the basic oil pump to oil filter one. not worth it in my opinion, you'd be better off running it a quart more than listed and putting some number 78 holley jets in the hole that feeds the rocker shafts. you'd be fine with that as long as you dont intend to race it, I've heard of 390's going 300,000+ miles never rebuilt and without any oil mods. get my drift?

 

Rodney, I did the oil mods on a running 390 and used the downtime as an excuse to put in new rings and a bigger oil pump and a valve job at the same time. I wouldn't even consider running an FE with out the oil fixes if it were in a truck I owned. While there are some engines that have run for years without the fixes, I wouldn't advise taking the risk. I am working at an engine rebuilder currently and have take apart 6 FEs with less than 30K on them that failed on #5 main or 7 or 8 rod bearing. Some of these were new and some were re-builds. Yes, it is a hassel to R+R the engine just for some simple work, but it is worth it in peace of mind. To me that is the biggest benefit of doing the work, you will know that your engine is bullet-proof and can do whatever you ask it to. What if you let someone else drive it and they blow it up 'cause they didn't baby it with a weak oil system? You won't have saved much work then will you ? The more tangible benefit of the work is an increased supply of oil the whole engine, especially the mains. If you are very carefull, you might be able to do the most important part with the engine in the truck. That would be enlarging the pump to filter passage from 3/8 to 7/16s. Can you get the oil pan off with the engine in ? You can also restrict oil to the rockers by simply removing the covers and rocker assembly. Why not buy a new gasket for the oil filter adapter and pull it off ? looking behind it will tell you if someone has already worked on it. Lots of trucks are already done, maybe some previous owner has fixed it for you. You won't know if you don't look. DF

 

on the rocker arm mod, you just take the rocker stand off drill and tap the oil for a #78 holley jet is that what I'm led to believe here?

 

nope, the holley jets just slide right in, the oil supply hole is just right for them. I can go take and post a picture if you want

 

Well at least put in a HV pump and use a GOOD 10/40 oil.

If you have the room use an industrial oil filter they are 60% bigger and so there isnt amush flow loss across the filer.

Has anyone every joined the front of the centre oil passage to the rear with an auxilary tube. The oil filer mods are still important

It seems like an in-chasis mod that parrallels the drilling of the centre gallery ?

If the oil to the rockers needs restricting does that suggest that the rockers need replacing or blue printing or something ?

Remember that there is a "restriction" from the centre gallery to the mains under the cam bearings.

What about fitting steel/cross bolted main caps and adding oil galleries in the main cap feed thru larger cross bolts with holes up the middle?


In OZ and seeking 427block /428crank

 

Fe427, a picture would be worth a thousand words in this case

Thanks

 

ok, it's too late now but I'll take one tomorrow afternoon

 

Just wanted to get in on this oil mod post; I have been looking for the post that gives the details on this oil mod.
I have a 65 f100 custom cab. I am just getting ready to install a 352 with 15,000 miles on it; taken out of my 67 f100, with a ranger package.
It is a strong runner, but would like to do these modifications while the engine is out.
I intend on installing a high volume oil pump also.
My question is this; If I drill out the oil passage in the block; do I drill it completely through? and if so won't that change the hole diameter that the pickup tube fits into?
Or am I too drill out the passages in the oil adapter; which one? Both?
Sorry about all the questions, I read the post about this a few months ago and just cannot seem to find it.
Thank you;
Bill

 

Bill, first off, this is a question that comes up often but it is one that's important so we are all willing to help.

The drilling of the passage from the oil pump to the oil filter adapter goes as follows:

remove oil pan, oil pump and oil filter adapter so you can see the hole.

you should see a 3/8" hole at the bottom of the block between the two threaded mounting holes. this hole comes up to the side of the block to one of the holes in the adapter. This hole angles forward after about 1" starting at the oil pump area so you'll have to drill from one side then the other.

In other words, I started at the adapter side and kept drilling straight down the bore of the hole with a 7/16" bit until I saw the tip of the bit from the other side of the hole (oil pump side)

then I start to drill from the oil pump side with the same bit being VERY careful not to break thru the block.

I repeated the process with a 1/2" bit but 7/16" is fine by itself.

Next, I took a Dremal tool with a grinding stone and smoothed out the hole so that there were no sharp corners.

Lastly, I looked at the gasket from the oil filter adapter and rounded the hole so that it had no sharp corners as well. The next step it to clean up the mess or have it tanked.

As for the oil pickup, no mods are needed here, just make sure it's clean and gets close to the bottom of the pan.

Note: Extra care should be used to not break thru the block, if you feel the other side of the hole, you'll see that you need to be straight when you drill. If your angle is wrong, you'll endup breaking thru the block.

As for the other mods, you can drill the other hole from the filter adapter to the cam, but this takes a very long bit. Also the main bearing saddles should be matched to the bearings as some have half the hole covered by the bearings. this one requires that the crank and bearings be removed and extra care taken to keep it clean.

The restriction to the valves is easy to do and helps to keep more oil to the mains.

HV or HV/HP pumps are a good choice and a rear sump pan is also good.

 

karljay;
Thank's for your response, I am going to get started on it today. I understand the consept. I am an aircraft machinist by trade. Any way I can help, just let me know, speeds, feeds, materials, drilling tapping, broken bolts, metal repairs.
You would not believe some of the repairs my sons/son inlaw have done to motors, with basic tools, and knowledge.
Bill

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 24-Sep-01 AT 06:59 PM (EST)[/font][p]here's two, they aren't the greatest, but it should give an idea of how it's done, a small piece of wire is all that's needed to shake them out, probably compresses air through the deck part of the oil passage would blow it out too.

http://members.aol.com/brat360/oil1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/brat360/oil2.jpg
this just shows the fit, slide it all the way down in so that the rocker shaft can bolt on.

 

Do you have to tap those in the hole like a press fit or do they just bottom out on something and sit there, there is no way they can fall down inside the hole ?

Excuse me but I've never town down an FE

 

the hole makes a turn just a little ways in, they wont fall down, just slip them in, as soon as you do it you'll see

 

Thanks alot Fe427