Chemical Problems?
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Everett
Chemical Problems?
I am replacing the freeze plugs in my block. After removing them I found great quanities (1/2 cups) of gunk behind each plug on the right side. Most of the gunk is black colored, some of it gray and clay like. Other parts are hardened like mortor.
Most of it I picked out; I believe all the passages are open but not completely clear.
I think most of this gunk was created by someone trying to seal a leak with AlumaSeal more than once.
My question; any idea what i might use to desolve this gunk before I turn the hose on it too flush it out?
Most of it I picked out; I believe all the passages are open but not completely clear.
I think most of this gunk was created by someone trying to seal a leak with AlumaSeal more than once.
My question; any idea what i might use to desolve this gunk before I turn the hose on it too flush it out?
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Joined: Jul 2001
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Chemical Problems?
Stop leak may have caused the buildup you are finding.I have run into the same junk in an engine I am now running.It looks like gray mud right?Find an auto parts store that carries the Gunk brand of products.Gunk has a radiator flush that comes in a quart
bottle and is acid based.I've used this several times with good results.Follow the products direction and it should rid the cooling system of most of the crud.Most of the 10 minute flushs in my opinion are not effective on this type of contamination.
Good luck.
bottle and is acid based.I've used this several times with good results.Follow the products direction and it should rid the cooling system of most of the crud.Most of the 10 minute flushs in my opinion are not effective on this type of contamination.
Good luck.
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From: Everett
Chemical Problems?
I am assuming I need to use the gunk product with the engine up and running. At this point the engine is out of the truck, the heads are pulled. I intend to tear it down further, and replace all the gaskets.
Their is only 15,000 miles on the engine. So not feasable too tear it down completely and start from scratch.
Problem was they used cheap gaskets, and blue and orange goop everywhere, looked sloppy, needed repainting.
I havent checked this morning, but it seems maybe the head gasket on the right side might not have been put on with the flow holes in the back, and that is why the right side was so blocked up. I will check that this morning.
I went too the alumaseal site, and found "Incompatibility Materials" include: acids; nitrates and Strong Oxidizing agents.
I have used nitric acid in my hobby; very strong stuff it will desolve steel; will not touch gold, can be deluded.
I do not know about other nitrates or Oxidizing agents. Any suggestions?
Also said it could be burned out; above 400 degrees; but
EMITS TOXIC FUMES. don't think I want too mess with that.
Their is only 15,000 miles on the engine. So not feasable too tear it down completely and start from scratch.
Problem was they used cheap gaskets, and blue and orange goop everywhere, looked sloppy, needed repainting.
I havent checked this morning, but it seems maybe the head gasket on the right side might not have been put on with the flow holes in the back, and that is why the right side was so blocked up. I will check that this morning.
I went too the alumaseal site, and found "Incompatibility Materials" include: acids; nitrates and Strong Oxidizing agents.
I have used nitric acid in my hobby; very strong stuff it will desolve steel; will not touch gold, can be deluded.
I do not know about other nitrates or Oxidizing agents. Any suggestions?
Also said it could be burned out; above 400 degrees; but
EMITS TOXIC FUMES. don't think I want too mess with that.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 47
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Chemical Problems?
The Gunk product does require that the engine be operating.As far as incompatability goes it might be that if you use alumaseal
and then use the acid based flush then it would desolve the alumaseal and cause leaks to reappear.I would agree that hot tanking is very effective but more and more engine machine shops are using ovens to bake the block then bead blasting to clean.
Also if you tank the block or bake it for that matter then new cam bearings are needed.Keep us informed and again good luck.
and then use the acid based flush then it would desolve the alumaseal and cause leaks to reappear.I would agree that hot tanking is very effective but more and more engine machine shops are using ovens to bake the block then bead blasting to clean.
Also if you tank the block or bake it for that matter then new cam bearings are needed.Keep us informed and again good luck.
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john jamieson
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