OK so like over 3 years ago I had this stupid "backyard" mechanic rebuild my 351W. He said he had it bored out 40 over. He had the damn thing for over 6 months and ever since I got it back it never ran quite right and I basically got screwed cuz he shut down shop not too long after he gave it back. So now I'm kinda trying to deal with this truck which was my first truck so there's sentimental value. I don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge of these things but I would like to try to get the truck running decent again. I just started it for the first time in about seven months yesterday. After charging the dead *** battery forever she fired right up as soon as she cranked. Now when it is idleing it runs rough and kinda seems like she wants to stall but does stay running. But when I step on the gas and it gets up higher in RPM's it sounds like it's running fine and strong. I just wanted to know if it sounds like the timing might be off or something? It definately stalls when I put it in gear if I don't hit the gas right away. It also had blow some vacuum lines off before, but didn't blow any off yesterday when I had it going. Any suggestions?

 

chek the small things first

IAC
TPS
Fuel PRessur Regulator

 

Check the smaller things first. I would give it a tune up since it has sat for seven months. If you don't replace the plugs or wires at least pull the plugs to see what they look like. Check the resistance of the plug wires. I would at least clean the cap and rotor. Change the oil and all the filters. Make sure your vacum lines are in good shape and not leaking. Check your timing too. It is possible that could be your problem. After that see how it runs.

 

See.. I kinda don't know what that stuff is.. I've found a vacuum line diagram I would like to see if it's all hooked up right.. do I need special tools to check the IAC , TPS and fuel pressure regulator?

 

You said it is blowing the vaccuum lines off? That doesnt sound right at all because the vacuum lines should be sucition not exhausting.

 

back when I had first gotten it .. it did blow the vacuum line off or maybe the ******* forgot to hook it up..

 

IAC = Idle Air Contor Or Idle Air something. TPS = Throttle Position Sensor.
You should start with the more basic things. A lot of people think new cars are hard to work on cause of the computers. But they still take air, fuel, and spark to run. Vacum lines craked/missing/broken used to cause idle problems. They still do.
Start simple. If that dosen't work ask some more, you will get help.
Your engine light isn't on is it? If so check the codes that will help too. It wouldn't hurt to clean the Throttle Body either.

 

no the engine light isn't on.. the rear antilock light is on tho.. and i don't know the first thing about drum brakes i can only do disk. the truck is out at my parents house as it has been for about 3 years.. the engine doens't even have 1000 miles on it since the rebuild.. i think i need to track down a short somewhere because it drained the last battery i put in it.. if i remember correctly the starter kept wanting to come on.. my dad unhooked the remote start but i hope that wasn't the problem because i love that thing living here in michigan!

 

I would prefer this were the case, otherwise, you're getting some pretty serious backfiring in the intake. Backfiring nearly always indicates timing issues of some sort, and normally VERY advanced timing which ignites the fuel air mix in the intake. We won't even mention sticking intake valves until you've tried some of the simpler things.

It's very possible the IAC (Idle Air Control) is sticking. That would answer for the stalling when you put it in gear. The IAC will open to idle the engine back up when a load is put on it, or when the throttle is suddenly chopped (closed) to prevent stalling. It also tries to regulate idle speed by regulating vacuum in the intake. It's easy to remove and clean. Just be careful not to submerse it in any cleaners. It is an electronic device, treat it as such. Scrub it out good with a solvent and a plastic bristle brush. Spray a little WD40 in the ports to lube it up a little. Slap on a new gasket and see if it works.

A quick check for the wires would be to park the truck in your garage, turn the lights off, and see if there is any spark you can see. If you see any stray spark, replace the wires. Use Motorcraft wires only. Been there, done that with the Sooper Dooper wires from MSD. They lasted about 2000 miles. Not seeing spark won't mean you don't have bad wires, but seeing it is a SURE sign you do.

If you put in plugs too, again, Motorcraft plugs. Don't get sold on gimmicky platinum plugs. Been there, done that too. Ford ignitions will eat platinum plugs in about 5000 miles.

As for cap and rotor on the distributor, a quality set of most any brand will work, but don't buy the cheap junk because the price is lower. I'd say stick with Motorcraft or MSD cap/rotor set. I don't like the MSD wires, but the cap/rotor seem to be just fine. While you have the cap/rotor off, check down in the distributor for any moisture or debris that may have accumulated in there. Make sure it's clean and especially nothing stuck to the teeth on the rotor shaft to interfere with the PIP (Pulse Input Proximity).

A freebie, and very valuable source of information will be to run the diagnostics. KOEO (Key On Engine Off) and KOER (Key On Engine Running) tests will let you know if any of the important sensors are failing. Make sure the engine is at operating temperature before doing this, or you'll get lots of bogus readings. A good source of information would be www.fordfuelinjection.com for running these tests. It has diagrams and photos to show you how.

One other thing, get some fresh fuel in that tank, along with a good dose of injector cleaner. If it's been sitting for 7 months, chances are there's a good bit of condensate in that tank. Run the cleaner through, then change the filter as well. It's located on the frame rail right below the driver's seat.

Several tests can be run before you buy the first part. Start with the simplest tests and there are lots of good folks in here that will help you. However, the very first "part" you should buy is a good manual. Haynes is OK, but there are better to be had. It all depends on how much of an expert you want to become.

 

thank you guys for the help.. I would like to get started very soon on going through this stuff.. I would also like to get some pictures of the truck so you guys can see what I am working with