Zerk fitting conversion
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New User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: OREGON
Zerk fitting conversion
I just bought a 97 XLT and found out that there are onlt two zerk fittings in the front end. My joints are starting to look dry and I was wondering if the OEM fittings can have zerks installed and if so where I could get it done, or purchase.
DABRNX
DABRNX
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From: Southern MD
Zerk fitting conversion
Sometimes, the originals have a tiny hex-head plug in them, that can be unscrewed and zerks installed. If not, just run the originals and replace parts with greasable fittings when they are replaced.
The manufactures lay high claim to the new materials in tie rod ends and ball joints as to their lifespan. It's just preplanned parts sales in my book, hoping you'll get replacements at the dealer.
I prefer greasable parts.
[hr]
http://easyad.net/images/94vanavitar.jpg http://www.easyad.net/images/mustang1.gif
'94 E-150 Conversion Van 4.9 / C-6 -- '89 Mustang LX 5.0
The manufactures lay high claim to the new materials in tie rod ends and ball joints as to their lifespan. It's just preplanned parts sales in my book, hoping you'll get replacements at the dealer.
I prefer greasable parts.
[hr]
New User
Joined: May 2002
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Zerk fitting conversion
You can always use a needle tip to grease these joints. If you are worried about the hole the needle leaves, fill it in with a little silicone sealant. I bought my needle tip at Murray's for $3, it has a zerk fitting on the end so it can be attached right to your grease gun hose. ;-)
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Chicago Area
Zerk fitting conversion
Amberski's solution seems to make sense, but on second thought would we really be getting the grease into the bearing surface? Any other opinions?
I know I'll be taking my 2001 F150 (with one!! grease fitting) in at 35,900 miles and asking for replacement on anything that's even a little loose!
MrBSS
I know I'll be taking my 2001 F150 (with one!! grease fitting) in at 35,900 miles and asking for replacement on anything that's even a little loose!
MrBSS
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 154
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From: Crustucky (Crestview) Florida
Zerk fitting conversion
Here's an idea... drill a hole in the center and put a self-tapping zerk in it, worked for me on a friend of mines truck.
-Ry
1985 F-150 302 4X4
Dana 44 TTB / 9 inch
4.56:1 Front/True-Trac
4.56:1 Rear/Detroit Locker
C-6 Tranny, NP208 Transfer
6 inch Skyjacker Class II lift
35 X 12.50 BFGoods AT's
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=3725&.jpg https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=3536&.jpg
-Ry
1985 F-150 302 4X4
Dana 44 TTB / 9 inch
4.56:1 Front/True-Trac
4.56:1 Rear/Detroit Locker
C-6 Tranny, NP208 Transfer
6 inch Skyjacker Class II lift
35 X 12.50 BFGoods AT's
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=3725&.jpg https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=3536&.jpg
Senior User
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From: Huntington Beach
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Greaseless, senseless
I read in a Haynes manual about what "94 Van" referred to.
The manual said to check for caps that can be removed and replaced with zerts. I just crawled under my truck tonight and several of the joints had "caps" on them that felt slightly raised like you could put a socket head on them to remove them. Haynes also said to ask at the parts place whether a straight or bent zert is the best for any specific location you are putting a zert in.
Has anyone put zerts in as opposed to replacing the entire joint.
The manual said to check for caps that can be removed and replaced with zerts. I just crawled under my truck tonight and several of the joints had "caps" on them that felt slightly raised like you could put a socket head on them to remove them. Haynes also said to ask at the parts place whether a straight or bent zert is the best for any specific location you are putting a zert in.
Has anyone put zerts in as opposed to replacing the entire joint.
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Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 207
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From: North Bay, ON
I've done it in the past, but not so far with this truck. I am a bit leary of any sort of technique which could void the warrantee - I bought seven years. I do know that if at all possible, when they replace the joints, I will ask them to put in greasables. They probably won't, but since they will be paying for them, who knows?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
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From: Lawton, Oklahoma
My Expy is due for lower ball joints right now at 50K. Ill be doing them myself in the shop if its real slow like it has been lately. I spoke with one of the regular front end techs and he says the average owner can count on lowers about every 50K and upper and lower at about 100K. If that holds true its not all that bad. The lowers are pretty reasonably priced and both arent too bad to replace yourself. 4X4 are somewhat more difficult however. He changed out uppers and lowers on an Expy 2x4 today in about an hour, hour and a half roughly. And he wasnt breaking a sweat either. 
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 385
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From: Flat Rock, Michigan
hdewe:
Don't know what year truck you have, but my 02 F150 pitman arm has 2 factory zerk fittings that i am able to grease at every oil change. Those were the only zerks i could find. And i found them by accident when i was under my truck looking at my starter.
-hooD
Don't know what year truck you have, but my 02 F150 pitman arm has 2 factory zerk fittings that i am able to grease at every oil change. Those were the only zerks i could find. And i found them by accident when i was under my truck looking at my starter.
-hooD
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