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i dont know a whole lot about turbos...im a blower man myself (old detroit!! gotta love em) but i removed the turbo on my early 99 f250 to gut the EBPV and found even more problems ...my compressor wheel have a few scratches on it but nothing major but when i spun it by hand, i could feel slow drag spots and hear rubbing so i tore the whole turbo apart... turn out when i removed the compressor wheel on of the four bolts holding the back half of the compressor end had come loose and was cutting the back of it!!!
everything i know about the turbo:
1.on the center section that bolts to the pedestal 432656 is stamped on it
2.where it hookes to the spyder pipe 1.10 A/R is stamped on that
3.where the up pipe hooks to A/R .84 M1 is stamped on that
stock turbo as far as i know
my questions are:
1.what rebuild kit do i have to get for my turbo?
2.what compressor wheel should i go with?
3.and is there anything special i need to know when doing this?
and before anyone asks about it, i know its coming lol, i just want a decent wheel for somewhat stock applications.. not enough money for big oil and injectors or a bigger turbo..belive me i wish i could...and i dont have a chip or anything, just exhaust
thanks for everyones help!! i hope i cant get things straightened out soon
well i dont know how to help you ,but there is a guy on ebay that does rebuilding, maybe somone here knows more about it, anyways, if you tow, get a WW wicked wheel, to reduce turbo surge, .84, is a exhaust housing size and 1.10 is an intake housing,
when you rebuilding turbos they should be balanced for long life,
as far as i know somone ealse will chim in,
good luck,
thanks pete, i had figured they were sizes, but didnt know it that made much of a differnce and i read about the wicked wheel and i figured someone on here has to be running one and will say how they are, and i also read that the early 99 stock compressor wheel is already almost identical to the wicked wheel
dang, i missed this part, LOL you are correct that early 99 have the WW
well if you want to run cooler , go to 1.0 exh housing , or larger but you end up with some turbo lag,
thanks pete, i had figured they were sizes, but didnt know it that made much of a differnce and i read about the wicked wheel and i figured someone on here has to be running one and will say how they are, and i also read that the early 99 stock compressor wheel is already almost identical to the wicked wheel
To be exact, the WICKED WHEEL® is a wheel we found in some OBS trucks back in 98. It is used in some early 99's as well, but not all. In late 99, the wheels were switched over to the current OEM style and remained that way until the 7.3L went out of production. We sold the wheel under the name Wicked Wheel for a couple years and suddenly they were available everywhere. We trademarked the name, but then new names popped up by everyone selling them.........but in the end, the answer to your question remains the same.
They are all the same. They are all made by one company, Borg Warner. I wish I could say the WW was unique, but it's not. There is one aftermarket compressor wheel sold by many. Ours come with a set of color instructions and a new set of pedestal o-rings.
Now, to the technical aspects. The wheel has 10 veins instead of the 11 that the late 99 has. The vains are alternating in size (large/ small) unlike the late wheel that are all the same size. The WW is more efficient at surge control, but is slightly louder. This design is called a complex wheel, which is like most on the market for any turbo.
SC's are belt driven, where TC s are exhaust driven. If the exhaust drive pressure is not high enough for a given rpm/ boost situation, The turbo will actually stop or slow it's spin for a fraction of a second while a small amount of boost travels backwards through the compressor wheel into the intake. This is the "chirp" you here while towing with a load and low rpms. This will make short life of a turbo center section if left to continue.
Turbo rebuilds aren't difficult. There should be a kit on eBay for around $100, that will contain all the new parts you need, except for the o-rings under the turbo and obviously no new compressor wheel. If you need help with the rebuild, PM me and I'll send you my number so you can call. It's much easier to explain it all on the phone than typing it all out.
When you put those bolts back in place, I would reccomend a little Loctite on those bolts to keep them from coming loose again. I'd use red, as it's more resistant to heat than the blue, and you probably won't be removing those bolts again for a long time - if ever.